Battery Pack Tabs

Dec 18, 2003 33 Replies

In building battery packs, I prefer to use the braided material to connect the batteries to each other in the pack rather than the tabs because the braid will hold up to vibration better. However, I see that the braided wire runs about .30 or .40 cents an inch where copper solder wick material is around $7 for a 25 foot roll. Does anybody know what the difference is and why you couldn't use the copper solder wick to build a batter pack instead of the other high dollar stuff?



MJC


As near as I've ever been able to tell, solder wick _is_ braided copper wire. I use it to build my battery packs; never have had a problem.

J.D. to e-mail, pull the post

I used the solder wick for years with no problems. I prefer to use the cells with the tabs now. If you glue the cells together with either a hot glue gun, goop or silicone, vibration is not an issue. Never seen an issue with the tabs breaking. Doing a proper solder job on the end of a cell is very difficult. It's easy to get the cells too hot and damage them.

I think they're the same stuff. Don't let silver color fool you. That's just pre-tinned copper wire.

Bob

The most common error is thick solder. The thicker the solder on the tabs, the more effect vibration will have on it. Keep the iron hot, use acid core, keep the lap joint razor thin. Wash off the acid and you have a durable joint. But you knew that didn't you? :)

Bob

OK, thanks ya'll. I was just confused as to why the solder wick, which is braided copper JUST LIKE the braided copper sold "for the purpose" of building packs, is so MUCH cheaper. I mean, I was trying to figure out what's so magical (expensive!) about the stuff sold by the inch compared to the solder wick which is sold by the 25 foot roll for $7. It must be due to excellent marketing :-)

MJC

Actually, I always thought you avoided acid core solder like the plague. Makes sense, though. Thanks Bill

Rule 1: Never, ever, ever use acid core solder on electrical connections!

Rule 2: Never violate rule 1!

With all due respect the rest of your advise can best be described as an old wives tale...

That reminds me of VERY expensive, thick speaker cables available at audio retailers. I forget the name of the stuff, but DAMN it was expensive and provided an extremely small benefit over regular wires. The myth was that it is so large that it provides less resistence and coupled with the "gold" connectors, etc...Well, you get the idea/sales pitch.

"A fool and his money soon part, but how did the fool GET his money...?"

Acid core!!! I would never use acid core in an electrical circuit. At least that's what I was taught in electronics class.

If you cam get access to qulaity 50 ohm coax at scrap prices you will find that is an ebven better source of high quality braiding. We used to use it all the tme when the solder wick ran out..

Commercial grade 75ohm antenna downleads are not as good tho.

Someone has to cut it up and out it in a packet. And sell it to you.

Yeah...

I avoid rosin core solder like the plague. It's only good for electronics and low stress applications.

Bob

Rule number 3: Ignore rule number 1 and 2. Rule number 4: People who do not wash acid solder joints are lamers.

Bob

Your class was for lamers.

What's more important?

a. A strong, thin, secure solder joint b. A globby-assed joint that needs no washing

Here's the rule you should have been taught:

Never solder anything with acid core solder that you can't wash.

I say "wash", but a squirt of Windex or windshield washer fluid work great.

No offense meant. Just tweaking your tail. ;)

***Merry Christmas***

Bob

Monster Cables. Good for whipping kids. Ho ho ho!

Bob

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