Blue foam

ANY LARGE BUILDING SUPPLY COMPANY, ESPECIALLY THOSE THAT CARRY INSULATION. HOME DEPOT , ETC. THEY HAVE FAN BOARD, ONE, TWO AND EVEN THICKER PIECES. DOC FERGUSON

They may even have some lube to free up your Caps Lock key, Doc. ;-)

Good flying, desmobob

quoted text -

I'm debating to re-do my 4* 40 wings as foam core with balsa sheeting, as I really biffed up my wings in assembly. What would be the best foam to use? I noticed on rcfoam.com there is Blue Core and EPS that is 3" thick. Any help would be great thanks.

Two counts AGAINST the EPS foam. It is a good structural foam of its own accord, but it is expensive, heavy, and (from what my cutter guy told me) difficult to cut. The expense and weight should be enough to stumble over.

EPS? Expanded polystyrene? Its cheap, and not hugely structural, cuts easy and is ideal for skinned wing cores - blue foam is heavier stronger and denser and more suitable for fuselage parts.

Are we talking about the same thing here?

"Six_O'Clock_High" > as I really biffed up my wings in assembly. What would be the best

Sounds like EPP, if so I agree. mk

This is the kind of dilemma that made me get into the habit of tracing all of the rib types before I began assembly of a kit. It would be no problem at all to whip up another wing's worth of parts if you had good templates.

Ed Cregger

The message from "Ed Cregger" contains these words:

Quicker is to lay them all on your scanner with a dark sheet over the top and scan em, you can run two or three copies if need be of critical or easily busted parts before assembly, save as a Jpeg and you can always print out more if you need them,

regards, Terry

Ah...err....I hate it when that happens.

On Tue, 10 Apr 2007 13:10:47 +0100, Terence Lynock wrote in :

Check the output of your scanner and printer against the parts before assembling the plane.

There can be a small slip (1% to 2%) in printer output if your printing software does not compensate for differences in the aspect ratio of the printed pixels.

Such small differences won't make any difference in flight, but they can cause some frustrations when trying to assemble pieces cut from slightly distorted patterns. On a 12" rib, for example, a 1% error is 0.12"--large enough to make it impossible to get a nice tight glue joint.

The remedy, of course, is to cut pieces oversize and sand them to fit the real structure.

Marty

"Kevin R" wrote>

Expect them to be twice as heavy as built up balsa wings.

I would suggest that you at least remove some of the foam from behind the spar area, like an open bay balsa wing would be. You can get them almost as light as built up, that way.

Thanks Guys, I actually thought it would end up lighter, but I guess not. And thanks Ed, I never thought about tracing everything before assembly. Yes that would have made life a lot easier at the moment. Live and Learn I guess. But I will probably just bite the bullet and cut out new ribs, (Need the practice anyways).

Thx KR