Some Advice Needed –
I have some unopened, sealed fuel. The AP NFX w/25% nitro has
synthetic lube and I want to run it in old (but still good) small
engines and I want to add some castor oil to it to take care of the
Again, I used to know these things but I have to remember so much now,
some things get buffered right out of my memory disc. <g>
And whatever this amount is, would it be the same amount of added
castor oil for Mach 2 fuel with 15% nitro (but also with synthetic
lube)? I want to run it in some Max 15 - 35's?
Thank you guys...
Ken Cashion, AMA 69222.
Depends a bit on the motor. The Cox guarantee was only good if you
ran 20% castor oil in your fuel. Cox engines suffer from using a
ball joint that is not well lubricated to hold the piston and
connecting rod together. Other small engines say 20% oil with half of
that being castor. Synthetic oils are good but generally less
tollerant to lean runs which are easy to get with small engines. You
can probably use the fuel but find out how much oil is already in it
and add castor to bring it up to about 22% total oil. If you are
running a Cox engine plan on resetting the connecting rod after about
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 11:31:38 -0800 (PST), " email@example.com"
Yep...I have some other fuel for my .049s, of which I have a lot, but
I was thinking about my OS Max, 10, 15s, 20s, and 30s. Either way, I
am going to have a gunky model and the gooey stuff everywhere. That
is what got me out of glow and into e-flight.
I might have to buy a modern engine so I can use synthetics and keep
the gunk down. I dislike the grease to the point I would be content
to buy a new engine and face the wear just to be rid of the goop.
I might need to invent a "goop collector" and drain it after each
flight. This could be done.
I have a resetting tool and have used it often when abusing some of
the little engines...and I have a few rod/piston key ring
novelties...with holes worn in the piston top from the pounding rod
Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not
so great) words of knowledge:
I ALWAYS add 4 oz of castor oil per 1 gallon of fuel.
Yes, it does create somewhat of a mess, however, all you need is 1 lean
run and your engine could very well be toast (needing a complete rebuild
To me, it is cheap insurance, and Windex and paper towels are cheap.
If a person hates the goop as much as you do Ken, why would you even think
of returning to glow engine usage?
Things have come a long way in power-to-weight ratios regarding electric
flying since you have been gone. If it is all out performance that you seek,
the electric systems are much closer in power ouput versus weight than they
were when you left the hobby some time ago.
I don't mind cleaning up the goop from larger engines because the goop is
directed away from the model mostly, but the one half A engines blow it
everywhere. That and the annoying sound of tiny high revving engines have
made me go electric on the smaller models.
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 18:39:47 -0500, "Ed Cregger"
Superb question, Ed, and one deserving a full answer rather than
I am aware of the improvements in e-power over the years, but I got a
little tired of the tinkering...this tinkering is what got me turned
on to e-power, but it got a little old and tiresome keeping up with
the technology. I finally decided that I wanted to tinker less and
Brushless and LiPo is a whole 'nuther technology and glow is old, old.
I remember having models sit for months, squirting some 3-in-1 in them
and going flying.
There is a whole lot more support equipment (and expense) with most
advanced e-power than with glow. I wanted to go fly when the mood
I have kept flying e-power though, and I will continue to. I am just
returning to glow. We too often think in exclusives...either you fly
electrics or wet. No, we can fly both -- just not on the same outing.
When I used to take both to the flying field, the wet engines stayed
in the car and I flew e-power. I am taking about five e-planes to the
field now and haven't gotten a glow plane going yet, though just today
I did send in an order for some stuff I needed to replace for glow
I have ordered a little radio system for a twin-400 He-111 I want to
design and build. It will be about 44" wing span and have retracts
using the modified servos I did the article on in AM...only this time,
it will be operating some landing gear with a worm drive from a guitar
tuner. I will still be flying e-power -- just not competitively.
Ed, I stated this wrong, earlier. I am not returning to the hobby but
to glow. I find this funny because I swore on a stack of Bibles (big
one) that I'd never fly another glow plane. <g> (Never say "Never."
<g>) And I have an Oe-FB in MO who is hardly speaking to me since he
learned I was going back into glow.
I have mufflers on my TD .049s, use low-compression heads, and a bad
prop. I want my Storch to fly at scale speeds...and it will ROG. Fire
it up, set it down, stand on the trailing antenna and when ready for
take off, I raise my foot. <g>
I don't fly my pressured .049s anymore. It makes my fillings hurt.
That was a terrific reply, Ken.
And yes, I misunderstood some of your original content.
Like many aircraft modelers I began flying models using .049 engines back in
the late Fifties. Most were discards that I picked from other folk's trash a
few weeks after Christmas. Usually all they needed was a new screw to hold
on the prop. Some were missing mounting ears, but you could get by with at
least one mounting ear on the top and bottom of the engine, hopefully they
were on different sides.
I'm am still a rank newby when it comes to electric powered flight. I have a
lot of gear accumulated, but most of it is outdated. Still, so am I, so any
electric experience will likely be a good experience. LiPo packs scare me -
Nice chatting with you.
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 19:40:13 -0500, "Ed Cregger"
I mis-speak sometimes.
There were three of us who would gather these reed valve engines and
then use Teflon reeds, bore out the intakes, use the dual-port
cylinders (270s I believe), reseat the ball sockets, use high
compression heads, small props, and lots of nitro...on little
We had marathons. We would race the circuit, come in, refill without
killing the engine and send them back out. The water was maybe four
inches deep. <g>
We would run the engines one afternoon and have to completely rebuild
them...they were worn out in one outing. <g>
And I gained a new respect for Cox when I was flying some events using
the Texaco .049. A 7-7 in the still a.m. and turning only 5,500 rpm
gave a long flight.
I have been on a schedule for sometime now and I must maintain
it...this sounds medical but isn't...it is just the only way I can get
the stuff done I want to do. I will not spend the time in the shop I
used to because it cut into the other two things I enjoy...and one is
a passion and calling; the others are just fun. <g>
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 16:48:12 -0500, Ted Campanelli
Thanks a bunch for the input. This is twice what one modeler
recommended. I will consider an average?
A roll of paper towels and squirt gun is part of my flight box. I
will put a sheet of ply in the back of the Buick Estate Wagon to
protect that carpet... (This wasn't necessary with e-power. <g>)
And yes, my engines are in good shape after many years because I used
good lube...well, the TD .049 on pressure and bored out has seen
better days, I guess. <g>
Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.