Dumb (possibly) Monocoat Question

If you want to use regular monokote as trim, then you need the trim solvent in the link above to get it to stick. Monokote also has specific trim material that you don't need the solvent for.

I bought one of those neat little tools that allow you to cut your own trim striping material from scrap Monokote. No matter what you do, heat-wise, when applying it, it always seems to end up coming loose after a while. I've had very good luck with the application of a tiny bead of CA glue along the stripes, applied with one of those disposable pipettes with the really thin stem.

Good flying, desmobob

Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge:

Your best bet when using monokote for trim is:

1. Make sure the area is COMPLETELY clean.

1. Spray the area with Windex.

2. Squeegee out any excess Windex, then let dry overnight (BLOT up any excess Windex, do not rub)

1. The next day go over the edges with a trim iron to seal them securely.

FWIW - The Windex "trick" will only work with monokote. I usually cover with Ultracote and trim with monokote.

I like Monocote Trim solvent for that.. mk

I kinda half-knew that such stuff existed, but I (a) couldn't remember, and (b) didn't know if it was just a money maker for Top Flight or if it really made a difference.

I may try Windex 'cause I'm cheap, but I'll probably end up getting some of the solvent, particularly if my LHS has some.

This being an off-brand household (except for Monocoat) -- do you know what the ingredient is in Windex that does the trick? Is it the ammonia (we have plenty of that)? Will any old spray-on glass cleaner work?

What works for me is to wipe the underlying covering, whether Monu or Ultra cote, down with MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone) and a clean lint free cloth. I find MEK works much better than any other solvent. Once clean, do not touch with your body. In fact it helps to wear soft cotton gloves when covering to ensure you don't transfer any bodily oils to the covering. When sealing the edges, if you can see a slight amount of pigment from the trim material worked out, you will know you have a good bond. Always start from the bottom rear of whatever part you are working on and work forward and up. Try not to have any seams or edges facing forward. Caution! MEK is very volatile and has a very strong solvent smell. Use in a very well vetilated area and stay away from any source of potential ignition. Probably a good idea to wear rubber or latex gloves when working with it as well.

-Rob-

I've never tried to rebuild a servo but I consider myself pretty cheap. I did spring for Trim solvent(twice, the glass bottle broke). mk

I THINK it is the ammonia in the Windex that activates the Monokote adhesive. Check the window/glass cleaner you have and see if it has ammonia in it. If it does, give it a try on one piece. The worst that can happen is that you wasted 1 piece of trim and a little time.

I'm going to dilute some ammonia instead.

Maybe I'll try some ammonia mixed with isopropyl alcohol, too (some glass cleaners use this mix, AFAIK).

I'll report back, unless ammonia + isopropyl alcohol releases deadly fumes.

lol

Good luck on your mission, nice knowing you. :) mk

Ammonia plus isopropyl alcohol do not release anything more dangerous than the ammonia and IPA. Both are mildly toxic so do not drink the mix. Breathing a little or getting some on your skin is not a problem. Keep it away from copper metal as the ammonia will corode copper fairly fast.

I got lazy and just used a can of aerosol "Super-X Glass & Utility Cleaner" that came with the house when we bought it (I'm not sure what it says about our tendency to wash windows or the previous owners, or what, but they sure left lots of glass cleaner around).

At any rate, it smells like Windex and it sure sticks Monocoat down to glass. Isopropyl alcohol doesn't do as well, and non-treated Monocoat barely sticks at all.

So now I know what I'm going to try next, as bits -o- trim come up.