The iCharger series is great. I have the 106B and love it. (Up to 6 cells
and 10amps.) It does just about anything you could ask. I've used mine a
lot for over a year now with no troubles. There are other iCharger models
with higher cell-count and amp capacity (206B, 306B, 3010B).
There are a large number of charger options. Some are very good and
some not so good.
A lot depends on what size packs you will be using. If you are
talking small electrics using 2-4 cell packs of 4000 mah or less, then
I would strongly recommend the Cellpro 4S or 4S Multi. I have the
original Cellpro 4S and I love it.
If you are going to be using larger packs, then the Cellpro Power Lab
8 or 10S would be my recommendation.
Note that not all balancing Lipo batteries use the same balancing
plug. These charger have adapters available that will cover the
connectors you will find in the market. I have two adapters for my
4S and I can charge anything.
Thanks for the input everybody.
I took a 10 year old Zagi that had a speed 400 can motor in it and
replaced it with an EFlite Park 400 brushless DC motor, using the same
prop. The original Zagi used 600 mA 9.6V nicad packs. The new setup uses
3S 2100 mA Lipo batteries. The Lipo packs weigh almost the same amount
as the nicads. The difference in performance is stunning. It used to
take a good toss to hand launch, now it would fly out of your hand if
you let it (seems like a bad idea with a pusher prop). It flys for 20+
minutes instead of 8 with the nicads. I am flying it at 2500 feet asl
instead of 1200 feet and it still rocks. The only issue right now is
motor cooling. I cut the top cover off the motor area to increase the
air flow. If this does not do it, I will make an aluminum bracket to
hold the motor out in the airflow better.
I used to fly a lot, but work and other things got in the way. 10 years
went by with no stick time. Now, after another intercity move, I am
trying to get enough stick time to be able to join a local club as a
qualified pilot instead of a trainee. This will work fine.
The old Zagis are extremely tough and pretty easy to fly. The one I have
is thoroughly ugly, but still flys fine.
I don't know what prop you are using, but if the motor is getting very
hot, you may have too much prop on it.
If you are going to start swapping motors around there is an essential
tool you need, a wattmeter. Without it you have no idea if your power
system is running properly or if you are about to ruin the motor, ESC
or the battery pack. This thread discusses wattmeters. I hope you
find it helpful.
WATTMETERS - WHO NEEDS THEM
I looked at the article and it makes sense. Before I put the motor in
the plane, ran it up on a large bench power supply. It looked like the
input current was about 10 amps at 11.5V. The original motor was pulling
about 8 amps at 9.6V. The prop is a 5x5. I could probably drop the pitch
and keep OK performance, the plane climbs out at about 2/3 throttle just
On 05/30/2011 07:32 AM, Ed Anderson wrote:
I also have an old Zagi (has a carbon arrow spar to remedy the dreaded "Zagi
flap" it developed after lots of flight hours) that is just waiting around
to be converted to brushless and flown again. What amp rating is your ESC?
I used the 20 Amp speed control that EFlight sells.
I used fiber tape on the underside of the wing when I built it. The guy
at the hobby shop recommended it. So far, flexing seems minimal.
Did you spend time in Albuquerque in the late 70s/ early 80's?
A couple of comments on the brushless zagi conversion resulting from my
morning flying session:
The stock Zagi prop is probably not adequate for the extra power from
the brushless motor. I shed a blade when I throttled up for a maneuver.
It broke right at the root to hub transition.
Cutting away the cover over the motor gets more air on the motor for
cooling, but is is still a little marginal.
The stock plastic cradle and wire tie mount is not adequate for the
brushless motor. It was barely adequate for the speed 400. In view of
the cooling issues and the mounting issues, real changes are going to be
done here. The new Zagi outrunner models have an aluminum plate for a
motor mount. I am going to fab up a variant of that for the inrunner.
In view of the prop situation, I will try a lower pitch prop from a
The new motor and battery really makes the old Zagi a better plane! It
is much more positive in the air and fun to fly.
The one that came apart was the stock Trick prop. I put an APC 5x3 on it
and the current went UP. The current is too high for the motor. I ordered
a copy of Motocalc and will play around rather than buying parts until I
It seems that converting the old, stock Zagi to brushless might not be worth
the trouble. Mine's old and tired and a new version designed for brushless
might be a better idea, I guess.
BTW, I've never been to Albequerque....
The new motor mount was made of 0.030 aluminum. I cut away the plastic
tray about 4" forward of the trailing edge of the wing. The cooling
problems are solved, and the motor is securely mounted. The new mount
weighs under an ounce.
I am trying to learn more about electric flying and get stick time after
a long break. I thought about buying one of the new Zagi's, but until I
had flown the present Zagi with a new motor on it, I did not want to
spend the money on another Zagi. Having flown the Zagi with a much
better motor, I would be willing to spend the money, 'cept I have a
flyable plane now.
I knew a guy in Albuquerque that used the nickname "Desmobob", rode a
I admire your sense of fiscal responsibility and wish I could develop
I ride a Ducati 900SS SP "Desmodue" I bought new 16 years ago. I love her
so much I never felt the need to "upgrade" to a newer model.
Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.