Goofy trick....

Good idea!

Are you related to Howie Mandel?

Dave

Gee... I hope not! ;-)

Good flying, desmobob

Thanks for the tip, Bob. Good, innovative thinking.

Ed Cregger

Big snip

Big snip

I have a Twin Star that kept cracking the ABS covers over the nacelles. After two sets cracking, I placed light fiberglass inside them and used Shoe Goo to hold the f-glass in place. Put down a layer of Shoe Goo and push the f-glass in to it. The Shoe Goo always stays plyable and prevents cracking.

That's a great idea! ...and a good excuse to pick up a new tube of 'goo.

I love Shoe Goo and would keep it on hand if I could get more than one or two uses out of a tube before it stiffened up. I guess I don't use it often enough! It's great for patching my duck hunting and fly fishing waders, stress relief on wires, and a million other things, too.

Good flying, desmobob, far north in NY, above the heavy snowfall!

You are correct on the harding. I have found that to prolong its life a little bit and keep the cap from being glued to the tube, I place a piece of thin plastic (like plastic food wrap) over the nozzle and then screw the cap on.

For others information. What I have found is; At Wally World in the shoe department, it is known as Shoe Goo, at K-Mart it is KIWI Sport Shoe Glue. In the boat stores it has a marine name. In the home improvement department it can be found as plumblers goo. In the hardware department it can be found as just Goo. It can be found many places, but usally has a Goo in the name. I did find a Goo once that was not any of the above. Also, depending on the application advertised, you may find different viscosities in the different brands. If you don't forget, like me, always get the thinest one as it will have a longer shelf life. I have also found different size tubes, but the price doesn't vary much.

Applications: Shoe Goo is electrically inert and is a good substance to use on wires for strain relief, as mentioned by Bob. I use it on printed circuit boards for insulation, vibration protection etc. It has the advantage in that you can remove it if you need to take something apart.

Between Alphatic, Cynoacrylate, Sigment & Duco, epoxy, silcone and Shoe Goo we have a great choice of glues.

Gorilla Glue Z-poxy Wood Glue Model Cement Gum (Bubble, or chewing) and my personal favorite, duct tape.

Jeff Stout

On Mon, 13 Feb 2006 19:17:25 -0600, "Jeff Stout" wrote in :

JB Weld.

Marty

OK fellows, I didn't mean to turn this in to a "My favorite glue" contest. I was trying to categorize glues.

Alphatic means animal fat wood glue like Elmers white glue and many others of different colors. I did misspell Cyanoacrylate, meaning any of the instant super glues. Sigment and Duco was a category of old standard model airplane cements we all used to love to smell. I left out Ambriod, but you get the drift. Epoxy is a category of any of the two part mixes, including JB weld and Z-poxy and any other brand . Fiberglass resin, while a two part mixture is chemically different than epoxy, but was assumed in this category. Silicone is the vinegar smelling substance and it smells the same regardless of your favorite brand. Shoe Goo is a category that hasn't been used much in modeling untill lately but comes in many brands. I did fail and leave out the Polyurethanes category which includes brands like Gorilla glue. Again there are many brands of this glue.

If anyone has more categories please share as a list of glue types would be beneficial to newbies. It would at least guide them as to what to try.

On 14 Feb 2006 04:03:22 -0800, "IFLYJ3" wrote in :

Categories can have sub-categories. :o)

Here's a web site that has some glue ideas:

I'm sure Alan can give us pages and pages of links to similar sites. :-O

There is a wonderful variety of sub-types here: odorless, thin, medium, thick, rubbery, foam-safe, canopy glue ...

Yes. And the PVC glue can be useful for gluing some types of plastic. It "melts" the plastic a little bit. Really cool.

JB Weld may be a "brand" of epoxy, but it's got wonderful qualities from something (I don't know what) that make it work in heat that would melt "normal" epoxy. It's really good stuff.

Dang, there's some other chemistry that I can't think of right how. Epoxy also uses "resin." The other chemistry, using two parts, smells different. Poly ... Polyester!

Yes. Distinguish between electronics-safe versions and those which will cause corrosion.

Not just "brands" but "blends" from the same company. There must be four or five kinds of "Goop" in Home Depot.

No harm in listing Loc-Tite. I think it's a form of CA. Very handy, even necessary, in some applications.

Marty

Shoe goo seems to be much like ZAP-A-DAP-A-GOO - no one mentioned Gorilla Glue (Polyurethane adhesive) it will glue butter to wax paper. Then my all time favorite when all else fails - Pattex Stabilit Express from Hobby Lobby - US$12.90/oz but when you need it money is no object.

Does anyone know if JB Weld is conductive?

Red S.

You forgot snot. :)

"The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

One day, while laboring to remove the dead bugs from the visor on my motorcycle helmet, I decided that I should seek my fortune developing a glue made from bug guts....

Still waiting for enough free time to start experimenting, desmobob

Yeah, no kidding.. I've found Simple Green right outta the bottle works pretty good on my visors...

The fellow who posted about contact cements in another thread reminded me of that as an additional category.

And a special, remarkable sub-category: 3-M's sprayable adhesives. Remarkable stuff, if a bit messy.

I also am quite fond of plain old "rubber cement."

Marty

On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 22:21:02 GMT, "desmobob" wrote in :

I think "bug guts" goes in the varnish category.

Shellac is literally made from insects--roughly 300,000 per kilogram.

Marty

Please stop exploiting the poor scale insects and finish your furniture in Monokote or a similar iron-on covering. Hard core modelers may opt to use dope and tissue...

Oh, and have a steak while you're doing so - with some chicken wings as an appetizer.

Our wonderful hardware store in Pennsgrove, NJ, Willis' Hardware (Yes, the Bruce Willis family) used to carry top notch products.

In 1969 or so, I wandered into the hardware store one day and ended up buying a tube of rubber cement. It was not inexpensive. Unfortunately, I forget the brand name, but it was one of the most tenacious adhesives that I have ever used.

My first multi model was a Goldberg Senior Falcon. I installed all of the hingest with the rubber cement. After flying the model once or twice with the stock ailerons, I decided that the ailerons were not large enough, so I attempted to pull the hinges out in order to replace the ailerons with larger units.

Nope. I could pull the hinge(s) half way out, but as soon as I let go of it, it popped right back into its normal spot. Convinced that I would wear it down and eventually win, I proceeded to waste a couple of hours trying to break down the elasticity by repeatedly pulling on the hinges. After a long time and with very tired arms, I decided that they were not going to pull out. I ended up cutting away the old ailerons, scraping the glue off the hinges with an X-acto knife and reglueing the new ailerons on with the same glue. This time I did decide to pin the hinges.

I wish I could remember the brand because that stuff was the best elastic mounting type of glue that I have ever used. It never refused to bond with any material that I put it on.

Ed Cregger

On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 17:25:17 -0800, The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote in :

I'm not the least bit hungry--I had plenty to eat today--but you just made my mouth water.

Maybe tomorrow I'll go try one of the Atlanta chicken restaurants to see if their wings are any good. :o)

Marty