I use only 15- and 30-minute epoxy.
Also Gorilla Glue from time to time.
OK. You are using techniques I haven't tried (yet).
I sure do love the quickness of building with CA. We've come a long way from Ambroid!
Marty
I use only 15- and 30-minute epoxy.
Also Gorilla Glue from time to time.
OK. You are using techniques I haven't tried (yet).
I sure do love the quickness of building with CA. We've come a long way from Ambroid!
Marty
But the Ambroid fumes just got you 'high', they did not try to kill you like CA fumes ! ! !
David
SNIP
LOL Ain't THAT the truth. There is a LHS that keeps the thin stuff on the top shelf right under the florescent tubes and then tells folks they must be using it wrong when it won't set up without accelerator. After waiting over night for a wing to set up and finding my work table covered in white dust the next day after using a bottle just bought for the project, I don't buy there anymore.
Ambroid fumes can cause brain damage. Ever heard of huffing?
Yup, done the same things myself. I have built entire 46 size sport planes with nothing but thin and medium CA.
As DR1 says, it is stronger than the wood so how much stronger do you need?
True.
And nothing like dope to make your head spin. I never learned how to do a good dope finish, but I kept trying. :o)
Marty
yup and for some reason it makes me ugly and sneezy.
David AMA40795 / KC5UH wrote:
ah ha! mama was right too late now. mk
I agree with Dr1Driver, CA is the strongest, with a little baking soda rubbed into the wood surface it's stronger than the wood itself ... why use acellarators when you have baking soda ! It's a much stronger joint than anything you can come up with. It also can be used as a filler as well, one that won't fall out.
Fly a Fokker !
Isn't it funny just how widely opinions can vary. Just read an article by a respected builder of LARGE model aircraft and he recommends using PVA as it gives slight flexibility to a joint. He also suggests aliphatic where the joint needs to be sanded as it is easier to sand than PVA.
He doesn't use cyano because he reckons it gives a brittle joint. I have seen this concern about cyano and brittle joints expressed elsewhere by other noted builders.
I guess you listen to the arguments.. and decide for yourself...
I have started using PVA and aliphatic much more because I am getting fed up of having no fingerprints for several days everytime I use much cyano >:-) Reg
I have personally never seen a proper CA joint fail. I have seen plenty of wood fail around the joints, though! And I have crashed a LOT of planes over the years gathering this data!
There's a fourth...
...DON'T use CA at all. :-)))
Malcolm
I'll back this one and add a VERY good point. Like Paul I've crashed more than my share of models over the years(try crashing one before it's off the bench some time) and I've never seen glue fail. Yes, I've had improperly mixed epoxy fail but that wasn't the glues fault it was my fault. I've switched over to using Elmer's outdoor wood glue...dries lighter than CA imo and just as strong.
It dries ligheter because it vents moisture and CA does not. I love it!
CA is ALL glue. There is no moisture in it. I use typically about 1-1.5 oz of CA on an average plane. I would like to see just how much wood glue is used ro build the same plane and measure its cured weight. I would bet that the overall weight difference isn't .5 oz.
-- Paul McIntosh
"Polyurethane glues (Gorilla, etc.) are stronger than PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate) glues but that is not the point on these glues. Used properly the PVA glues will be stronger than the wood that it is holding. The Gorilla type glues work better in applications that might be exposed to water."
Haven't tried PVA myself. Gorilla glue is a lot of fun.
Marty
Paul, I don't have a clue, but when I stopped using CA my planes began coming in lighter. Go figure.
Perhaps mine aren't proper, but I have about 20% failure inbuildingfalone usually.
These are very small models though.
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