Splicing balsa to make wide ribs?

The local gassers don't know what they are talking about. If glued joints are too weak, how do they get their planes to stay together? EVERY glue that is commonly used in our hobby is vastly stronger than the wood.

Trim the edges of the sheet so that they are straight, lay the edges together and tape them together on one side with masking tape. Now you can flex the edges apart to apply a bead of glue and them pay the sheets flat to dry (make sure to wipe off any excess glue).

You need to find a different group of local "pros" because they are simply wrong. The simple method for edge gluing balsa sheets is to first make sure that the two mated edges are absolutely straight by running over them with a long sanding block. Then lay the pieces flat on your bench and snugly fit the two mating edges together. Then hold them in that position with a single piece of 3/4" masking tape run lengthwise down the entire seem and then flip the pieces over so that the tape is on the bottom. Then you have two choices: 1. Either pick up the pieces and let the masking tape act like a hinge so that the seem opens up (the balsa sheets will be at about a 45 degree angle to each other) and then put in an even but SMALL amount of aliphatic glue down the entire seem. Then lay the sheets back on the table with some waxed paper covering the glue joint and then put some weights (books?) on the sheets to keep them straight while it dries. Or... 2. With the sheets laying flat and the seem up (the masking tape is still underneath), carefully run an even but SMALL amount of thin superglue down the entire seem and you'll have an instant bond. Either way will give you a joint stronger than the balsa itself, but I prefer method #1 because not only is it cheaper, but you will end up with a flatter piece of sheet since the weights will hold them flat while it dries.

MJC

"Mark D. Fain" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@bright.net...

Your local gas folks are a joke. A lenghthwise bond is as strong, or stronger than the wood itself. How to: Lay two sheets side by side, and match up the join line so they fit together. Then put tape on one side of the join, bend open, and apply a bead of wood glue in the now open join. Run jour finger over it to spread evenly, and lay down flat on the bench, tape down. Now remove surplus glue, pot a paper strip over it, and weigh down with a batten, or the next sheets. Next morning your sheets are ready. Good luck, Pé

"Mark D. Fain" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@bright.net...

On 4/23/2004 1:18 AM Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge:

They don't know what they are talking about. The glue joint is stronger than the balsa.

Use a straight edge and make sure the edges are straight. Then tape one side and CAREFULLY cut the tape at the seam. Flip the pieces over and tape the other side. Flex the pieces and apply your glue. When dry, remove the tape. The cut tape minimizes/eliminates the glue build up at the seam and the resulting sanding. I have found the blue painter's masking tape and/or regular scotch tape to work very well and not pull the balsa or leave residue when removed.

I agree with everyone else on this post. Look at any crashed aircraft, rarely do you find glue joints that are broke (provided they are properly glued together in the first place). I have glued many ribs over the years that have broke while cutting it or popping it out of it`s die cut piece, it happens, no biggie. No reason you cannot built a set of ribs the way you describe. rick markel

My Model Aircraft Home Page

I agree with the sanding and taping methods described, up to a point. After the pieces are taped, put the tape side down and run thin CA along the seam. In 10 seconds, you'll have a rib blank. No need for aliphatic glues or overnight weighting/ waiting.

Dr.1 Driver "There's a Hun in the sun!"

I agree. When making ribs, speed is more important. If you are making sheeting for foam wings, the aliphatic is better because it sands more like the balsa. Thin CA wickes into the wood and makes it difficult to sand smooth after sheeting.

You can indeed _sometimes_ produce straight edges with long sanding bars.

Alas, if one of the two sheets is bowed what you'll likely end up with is two mirror image edges when you try to mate them.

Better to cut each edge. All you need is a good straight edge longer than the sheet and a sharp knife. It goes faster if you have a table saw and jointer, of course.

See the section on squaring balsa sheets in the text article "Balsa skins", under 'Tech Tips' on my web site. Cheers, Fred McClellan The House Of Balsa Dust home.mindspring.com/~the-plumber AMA L180201 IMAA LM 090 NASA 6512 LHA 2 WB 233

They should stick with rubber power until they get their cranial rectumitis cured. Cheers, Fred McClellan The House Of Balsa Dust home.mindspring.com/~the-plumber AMA L180201 IMAA LM 090 NASA 6512 LHA 2 WB 233

Have you made up a half-dozen or so paper 'ribs' and tried to lay them out to maximize the yield from a single balsa sheet ?

For example, and pardon me if I'm preaching to the choir, if you look at

You should be able to minimize waste if you can figure out a reasonable layout pattern.

Cheers, Fred McClellan The House Of Balsa Dust home.mindspring.com/~the-plumber AMA L180201 IMAA LM 090 NASA 6512 LHA 2 WB 233

Thanks to all for your help!!

Good flying!