On Wed, 6 Aug 2003 21:30:14 +0000 (UTC), "Paul McIntosh"
I think someone suggested that six or seven sets of batteries
were in the $4000 to $5000 range (retail). Jason is probably
getting some sponsorship.
Some notes gleaned from the beginning of the video:
Hacker C50 13xl
20x13 APC prop
10S4P-2100 Thunder Power LiPoly Cells
My apologies if I have transcribed anything wrong.
2 packs of 5S4P ($325 each) $700
> 65 Amps
That's $1311.50 for the power system without the charger.
The charger will cost another $329 Orbit Micro Loader Pro
But now his fuel is nearly free.
What does a Y.S. 1.40 DZ with pipe and anti vibe mount cost?
How much dose a serious pattern pilot spend on fuel?
Can you see where this is leading? Now add to that the wear and tear
vibration causes on the airframe and electronics and it isn't hard to
understand why electric power is an attractive alternative. Plus, you can
kiss good bye mixture settings, glow plugs, flameouts, noise,
mess.....What's not to like?
I have no idea what Jason's airframe costs but I doubt it's significantly
different that a Y.S. 1.40L powered version of the same airframe.
Radio components should be exactly the same.
One thing people didn't mention is that the "light weight" and "high energy
storage" of the LiPoly batteries is what this is possible for Jason. Just a
year ago or so most electric planes were heavy and flight duration did
suffer badly compared to glow power. Technology is a wonderful
thing.....embrace it guys. Someday we may all have to fly electric planes in
order to keep our flying fields.
I'd question the former actually with Lithium technology. The latter is
still sadly very much the case.
However show me the glo engine that you can totally stop in flight and
restart...or a glo plane I can fly for 20 mins and land in 10m of back
You can definitely find (or build) models that handle wind with aplomb.
I've flown my Crazy Max in winds up to 25 mph (it stands still, and you
have to land with full throttle--but it's a blast). Most Speed 400
models will easily handle winds of 20 mph or greater. Just stay away
from slow-flyer types and you should be able to handle your ambient
winds with no great difficulty.
Depends on the model. For Speed-400 types, you'll probably want a
smaller, lighter receiver and some micro servos. Check out Balsa
Products (www.balsapr.com) for some great prices and good deals.
To get that to fly, you're looking at a fairly expensive
setup--probably a cobalt motor or brushless with gear drive and lots of
cells. A better bet would be to look at an electric ARF that matches
the size and performance you're looking for (instead of trying to
convert a glow model). Check out Hobby Lobby, Hobby People, or even
Tower for some examples.
Depends on the motor you're using. I can fly my homebrew FlyRod for
almost 20 minutes on an 800mAh pack. The same pack only lasts about 10
minutes in my Speed 280 Twin.
I have a bunch, but my favorites so far are the Astro 110D and 112D. As
has been said, this is one place you DEFINITELY shouldn't scrimp. A
crappy charger produces poorly charged batteries, which in turn
produces poor airplane performance. Put your money here.
How much money do you have? ;)
Seriously, you can spend oodles of dollars. I prefer cheap, so I'll
offer the following:
Simple direct-drive Speed 400 model
Three 8-cell 600AE packs: $48
Pixie 20 Speed Control (from Castle Creations): $35
Astro charger: $125
Approx. total: $217
With that setup, you can fly full-house aerobatics all day long.
Add a gear drive ($15) and your range of model sizes goes up nicely.
If you need a small receiver and micro servos, add another $100--though
you can certainly find excellent receiver/servo combination deals for
........ and the frequent need to tune the engine which I do
not do well.............
I have run a full gallon of fuel thru my Magnum .61FS during the last
couple of months, and have touched the needle valve ONCE during that
Most people who fiddle with the needle valve do so needlessly!!!!!
If you are experienced enough to recognize how the engine is running without
adjusting the needle valve, then what you have done is okay.
On the other hand, modelers should check their needle valve setting at the
beginning of the first flight of the day, if they care about engine
I tried to teach my student pilots to care for their engines and I had them
do this enough that it became automatic for them to ensure that their engine
was tuned properly.
Granted, four-strokes do not need tuning as often as two-strokes, but better
safe than sorry.
The only way you can get good at doing something is to do it.
Electrics can certainly fly in the same conditions as glow/gas planes. Call
up ModelElectronicsCorp.com and give them the specs of your plane, he can
give you a recommended motor configuration. He helped me out with a Mega
Motor brushless set up and it flew better than the glow version. The only
thing I don't like is that on landing the electric, it doesn't have enough
power to taxi back home through the grass. So I get a little exercise if I
don't do a good landing.
I specifically bought my Wingo to fly here at home, though I will perform
the initial flights at the flying field, just to make sure all is okay.
Especially when loaded with the video setup.
Flying at home is the niche I see electric fitting into for me. At least for
now. Who knows what may come? I still love my IC engines and see no reason
to give up one for the other.
Hi Ed. Thats why I started, for sure.
But then I hit teh e-zone, and realised there was so much more possible.
What you find with electrics is that actually, unless you want utter
ballistic performance, motors are very cheap ($5?) Its the controller
and battery that cost more, but hey, lets say you want to build a 4
engined Lancaster or B17, that won't quit on you...thats $20 on the
motors, and maybe $60 on a controller and battery pack...you won't get 4
reliable totally throttleable won't quit on you .10 cu in glo engines
So multi-engined scale is definitely better done electric. In fact most
scale stuff is good on electric, except maybe those big WWII warbirds.
Likewise camera planes. Want to get rid of vibration? Shut the motor off
and fold the prop?
Likewise thermal soaring - heck the sailplanes need ballast anyway,
might as well put some battery in, and strap a motor on the front.
Also ultra slow lightweight stuff - far easier to do with a GWS system,
and you can have a WWI biplane you can fly out of the backyard.
What you find is that you can fly more places and more often, and you
don't burn gas getting to the club field.
Sure, if you like to do that, do it! You will need a runway for that
ultra fast ducted fan jet anyway, or that giant scale B17.
But for pure 'charge it up and chuck it into the air and land in teh
backyard' electric is where its at.
Its different. If, like me, you cut your teeth on stick and tissue and
rubber bands, its how it used to be but with radio as well. Just for
fun. Not trying to be fatser/louder/bigger/than the other guy - just the
sheer fun of building things that fly.
AND if you do buy expensive, you can always swap packs and controllers
and motors between models to get the best out of them - lets face it do
you take 20 models down to fly? Nope. Just the 4 or 5 that suit the
weather and how you feel on the day.
I just returned from a fly in, where I "DUSTED OFF" 3/4 of the
models there with my electric Cloud Dancer..
Unlimited vertical.. and I have flown it in the same winds as
any .40 - .60 powered model with no problem...
And this plane can outclimb my .90 powered Extra and easily
do continuous loops at 1/2 power. (almost said 1/2 throttle! -
SHAME on me! ) :)
So, what did you have in it? I can easily say that NO electric commercially
available has demonstrated the same performance as my YS .91 powered
Desert Sky Model Aviation
You need to get out more. There are commercially available ARFs now
that can do things your Ballistick won't. Unlimited vertical. 20-minute
duration. Complete 3-D manueverability. And you can hold the fuselage
vertical, push the throttle up, and watch the model rise straight up
out of your hand.
I remember only too well when electric models where little more than
(under)powered gliders. Today's models--Gary Wright's E3D, the Mountain
Models Tantrum, the NSP Mambo, even the WattAge E3D--can handily fly
any maneuver the pilot is capable of.
Of course, in both glow and electric, we've reached a point where the
airplanes are FAR better than most of the pilots who own them. But
that's another story.
Commercially available electric power systems in these videos: (warning huge
files) check it out.
check out "the artist" and the noon demos at the bottom.
all electric....nuff said!
You'll be the envy of your club. When I joined my club, I had never
even owned a gas plane. Everyone told me that I would have to get gas
if I wanted to be serious about flying. In their estimation, electrics
were merely toys. A few of the guys had Zagi's, but that was it.
Well I bought an UltraStick 40 ARF and put a Jeti 45/3 in it with 18
3000 nimh batteries. The thing flew great in all whether. I
eventually put a 2:1 gear box on it and could hover and perform any
manuever that the gas guys could.
Suddenly, I was getting some respect at the club and everyone was
asking questions about electric power. Now there are several members
that have switched to electric.
I can only imagine what the plane would have flown like back then, if I
had owned LiPoly cells at the time.
Go get yourself and UltraStick. Its a great first plane for learning
more advanced flight and will fly perfect with electric power.
If it ain't broke, I probably didn't fly it.
Posted from the RCGroups.com Discussion Forums.
Visit us at http://www.rcgroups.com <------- Win free R/C Gear!
View this thread at rcgroups.com: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid 9808
Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.