bellows

One of the things keeping me from forging/heat treating is laziness, but the other is lack of a decent bellows....okay okay, I need to drawfile my spike anvil too.
The problem with a bellows/blower for me is that I need something manual. Running an extension cord 40 feet is clumsy at the least. I can't find a hand driven blower reasonable cheap so that leaves me to make something, Any ideas?
I was thinking an asian style bellows made with large diameter plastic drain pipe...or maybe ducting.
matthew
p.s. my setup is a very simple charcoal forge.
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an old hair dryer with the element ripped out makes a cheap and efficient blower.a dimmer switch on the cord is also handy to adjust the speed
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What is you keep the "element", would it make the fire hotter?
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Ignoramus5452 wrote:

No. Hot air is less dense, so you would get less oxygen in - so it would actually burn less hot.
And the OP is after a blower that operates without electrickery.
I'd go for a Leather and boards type bellows - double acting is better, and reasonably easy to make with rubberised canvas (blow-up dinghy?) and modern sealants.
I don't know how well a car heater blower powered by a large truck battery would work, or for how long.
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Hack to size. Hammer to fit. Weld to join. Grind to shape. Paint to cover.
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actually if you look up BESSEMER PROCESS. Cold air carries more O2. so colder = hotter (kinda ironic isnt it.)

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Tell people where you are. Somebody may have something for you.
I saw several hand cranked "forge blower" on Ebay just now.
One way to go is to use a heater blower from a car. Run it from a garden tractor battery.
The Africans made a sort of "bellows" from a goat skin with the tuyere sticking out of one leg to point into the fire. They had a stick laced through each side of the belly area. You push the sticks together to seal up the belly, then push down to expel the air trapped in the hide through the leg-tuyere. Spread the sticks and pull up to refill. Surprisingly effective.
Pete Stanaitis ----------------
Matthew wrote:

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N.E. Ohio, think a leather type bellows might be the best option.
matthew
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If I can just throw in a quick suggestion here...
If you do build a leather and board version of bellows, you might want to make sure to leave a length of horizontal duct between the nozzle of the bellows and the firepot where you can build and install a flap- style check valve. Many of the old leather bellows were destroyed when the air in the duct combusted from the flame in the firepot to caused a "backfire" that had enough force to split the leathers of the bellows. If there is a flap check valve in the duct, the force will be stopped before ruining the leather. If you get a backfire without the check valve, you get to stop 'smithing and install new leather. Ruins a good day of 'smithing.
Hope this helps,
Paul
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Thanks for the tip. I was wandering about this.
matthew
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Hi Matt,
I was recently sent some rough line drawings of simple to make bellows, if you send me your email address I can forward them to you.
Regards Charles
Matthew wrote:

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