Whats the deal with 1050

Hey all, I am another of the damn newbies trying to make knives. I have been trying to find some SAE 1050 to work with since it is supposed to be fairly simple to harden and temper. The problem seems to be finding the damn stuff. My local Scrap and Steel shop says they can't source it and Nobody on the internet that I have found seems to have it. I want somthing that I can get buy annealed and do a basic water hardening preferably. I'm looking to get bar stock that is better than 1/4 inch for sword material. I used some 3/8 stock mild steel for a test run on a bastard sword and that seems to be a good blank stock to start with. It allows me to whittle away at it and still have a good amount of steel left over when I get done (haven't built a forge yet). So how is O1 for working with? I could put together an oil quench but I don't what to get involved with five to ten hour temperature controlled tempering processes and such. Any advice I can get on easily obtainable stock would be appreciated. Thanks all!

Greyangel

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Greyangel
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There is a company in Chicago that deals simple carbon steels.

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I used to get 1095 from them.

Just start with leaf springs. They are 5160 and make great knives, hatchets, and tools. A very easy steel to work with. Leaf springs are very cheap at scrap yards.

BTW Rear car axle steel makes great hammer heads.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

Very Cool! Thanks for the location! I expect I will indeed be using leaf springs for a lot of things. I really need to get the forge thing together. The problem with scrap steel is that it generally needs a lot of massaging before it is ready to be worked into a knife and even more so if you are trying to make swords. I figure I will spend a while doing stock removal while I put together a shop. I have a lot of tools that I need, and am still figuring out techniques and what not before I actually try to harden and temper a blade. Thanks again!

Greyangel

temperature

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Greyangel

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