Deep hole drilling, follow up

Thought I needed an on topic post after my OT post
I finished my job drilling 6.75 deep 3/8" holes in 1018 steel
Did a rather conservative 1xD peck. My main concern was not breaking the $80 drill, a few extra minutes did not matter much, as most of the time on this job was moving the 250 pound piece around, needed 4 moves to drill the whole part end to end and I had to saw the windows of my machine bigger to let it stick out the sides.
First spot drill then jobber drill to 1.9" deep, then as follows
N1600G0G17G20G40G80G90 N1610(3/8" LONG PARABOLIC FLUTE GUHRING DRILL) N1620G0G91G40G80G28Y0Z0T5M6 N1630G54D35 N1640M01 N1650G90G43Z1.H5M3S713 N1660/M8 N1670G1Z.1F100. N1680 X1.625 Y-0.75 N1690 M98P8099 .......a bunch more X moves N1890 M98P8099 N1900M9 N1910G0 X10.0 Z5.0 N1920M5
Sub program as follows.....G4 P90 allows 1 full revolution at bottom.
O8099(DRILL SUB) N10G0 Z-1.8 N20G1 Z-2.3 F4.28 N30G4 P90 N40G0 Z-.6 N50G0 Z-2.2 N60G1 Z-2.7 F4.28 N70G4 P90 N80G0 Z-.6 N90G0 Z-2.6 N100G1 Z-3.1 F4.28 N110G4 P90 N120G0 Z-.6 N130G0 Z-3.0 N140G1 Z-3.5 F4.28 N150G4 P90 N160G0 Z-.6 N170G0 Z-3.4 N180G1 Z-3.9 F4.28 N190G4 P90 N200G0 Z-.6 N210G0 Z-3.8 N220G1 Z-4.3 F4.28 N230G4 P90 N240G0 Z-.6 N250G0 Z-4.2 N260G1 Z-4.7 F4.28 N270G4 P90 N280G0 Z-.6 N290G0 Z-4.6 N300G1 Z-5.1 F4.28 N310G4 P90 N320G0 Z-.6 N330G0 Z-5.0 N340G1 Z-5.5 F4.28 N350G4 P90 N360G0 Z-.6 N370G0 Z-5.4 N380G1 Z-5.9 F4.28 N390G4 P90 N400G0 Z-.6 N410G0 Z-5.8 N420G1 Z-6.3 F4.28 N430G4 P90 N440G0 Z-.6 N450G0 Z-6.2 N460G1 Z-6.7 F4.28 N470G4 P90 N480G0 Z-.6 N490G0 Z-6.6 N500G1 Z-7.1 F4.28 N510G4 P90 N520G0 Z-.6 N530G0 Z-7.0 N540G1 Z-7.35 F4.28 N550G4 P90 N560G0 Z-.6 N565 Z0. N570M99 Thank You, Randy
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.375 peck is pretty damn good on a cnc. The drill gets tired and you have no way to know. However, I used to drill a lot of .375 and .500 diameter holes on a drillpress thru moldbases. P20 usually. Not uncommon to drill 35-40 inches deep. Friggen 50" rod half ass welded to a 3" jobber drill. I would crank the feed up so high that when I rammed the crank in to engage it would lift up the whole head of the drillpress and half stall the motor on a 3/8 drill. Common peck was prolly 3/4". Of course...don't do that on a fancy smancy 2010 high speed mill using drill sharpeners, etc..., only do that on a pre-1960 crappy old drillpress with a drill you havn't sharpened for 500 inches of abuse. Helps to get really drunk the night before, wake up feeling like crap, go in a few minutes late. Do that and you will be a drilling superhuman.
Technology...gets in the damn way sometimes.
My main concern was not breaking

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F'in halarious!, Vinny your not from Chicago are you?
35-40"? you'r a better DrillPressman than me! mine was around 30" with guhring 7/16" water line drill. Can't tell ya how many times the drill shattered/froze at the bottom of the travel, then drill from other side, hope ya hit it, stop when HSS drill strarts drilling the other broken HSS drill, pound it out using soft nitrited 3/8 ko pins- Fuck! + being pissed off cuz your hungover & getting "acid-flash backs" _ its hot as hell in the shop- your foreman is on your ass to hurry up theyu are waiting for that mold plate, CS'er! WTF were we thinking back in the 70's?
Thank You lord for gundrills!
my moldbase/ PFC drillpressman days was on a pre-columbian- Cincinnati Brickford 6' radial arm MF'er. about 8/10 HP? That bitch could not be stalled.Twisted a few MT tangs off! The arm lifted when using the 3-1/4"dull ass spade drill way out at the end of arm travel,for support pillers.It shook the whole shop floor when you released the quill feed. Fuck I think we used 3-1/2 if possible they walked so much, a 3" piller might rub!<g> f'n butcher shit! Man the shit we did when we were kids! + being drunk/hungover/stoned/high!<g> & alittle dice game after work for some quick cash on hand! Man that was fun. 7-11 ! see ya! creeps! One of the goofy apprentices made a set of aluminum bones- fuck head.<g> Now he runs the EDM dept of a major local spray equipt. mfr. Hmmm wonder how he's fairing the storm these days?
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