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Deep hole drilling WAS leadscrew repair

First, thanks to all who offered advice on my Clausing cross-slide leadscrew repair problem.

I have ordered Acme threaded rod to make the repair, but I will need to accurately bore out the center of it whichever repair method I settle on. The two choices now (As I see it) it to either turn off the existing worn-out threads (I have a second lathe, a 3.5 x 17 Sherline), and bore out the threaded rod to fit over the original shaft, OR Bore out the threaded rod to the minor diameter of the splines and duplicate the splines (Or have it done for me).

Either way I need to make an accurate hole almost a foot long. HELP! Any advice appreciated. Alternate suggestions also appreciated.

Roger in Vegas Worlds Greatest Impulse Buyer

Reply to
Roger Hull
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Rodger, I have a 5900 clausing with taper attachment. The spline is 0.410 and the depth of the acme thread is 0.500, so there is not much room to spare. My suggestion would be to turn the worn threads off so the shaft is 0.498. I would get a piece of 3/4 12L10 leaded steel and drill and ream it to 0.500. 7" is quite deep, so you will have to go slow. I would silver solder the two pieces together and then turn the OD to .625". Get a 10 pitch acme carbide insert (about $12). Calculate the angles and make a holder for it. The 12L10 will thread like butter. Carefully fit it to the bronze nut. I made a 5/16-14 lead screw for a small lathe I made. I bought the acme threading insert, made theholder and had no trouble turning the thread.

Reply to
Gene Martin

Accurate hole almost a foot long..hummm sounds like gun drill time to me. Since you are impulsive..and I happen to have a very nice Eldorado Gun Drill available and surplus to my needs.....

Perhaps you would like to make a number of these and recoup your expenses in purchasing my gun drill?

Gunner

"To be civilized is to restrain the ability to commit mayhem. To be incapable of committing mayhem is not the mark of the civilized, merely the domesticated." - Trefor Thomas

Reply to
Gunner

If you are going to follow this route, use soft solder instead of siver solder. It will require much less heat for less time to install, It will be easier to remove later, when the free machining steel screw has worn, and you will never break it loose from anything this side of a total destruction type crash.

With soft solder, it will be quite within reason to be able to install a sleeve without any scale forming. You could even make up a mandrell and make a spare thread or two.

Cheers Trevor Jones

Reply to
Trevor Jones

Reply to
Peter Peter

yer screwed if you try the deep hole trick. Hard to hold concentricity.

What would be wrong with cutting old ends off lead screw, leaving enough length for stubs that you would spigot into shorter holes in new Acme portion? Much easier to make short holes and siver solder ends into them than any fol-de-rol with doing the whole length. You also save trouble making those splines.

Reply to
Hoyt McKagen

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