Diamond wheel dressing

I'm surface grinding carbide on an Okomoto hand feed surface grinder - dry, with dust collection of course. The diamond wheels are MD120's 7" dia. 1/2" wide, permanently mounted
on the hubs & sent out to the factory for bottom truing & balancing. I need to get a good surface ground finish, but the wheels are not quite true- thus leaving a slightly ripple finish. I know we should have a brake type wheel dresser, but the boss won't budge for it due to its cost for the very little carbide grinding we do. We have the white dressing stick for de-glazing it by hand, but does not true it. Years ago I ran across a dressing stick 3/8 dia. made out of some type of sintered material mounted ridgid when dressing, that actually would dress a diamond wheel like a single point diamond does on a regular grinding wheels. That dressing stick wore quite fast but removed some diamond from the wheel, allowing the corners of the wheel to be squared & the bottom true. I can't seem to find it any more. Has anyone used one of these, what is it & who has them. If I remember correctly they were around $20-30?
Thanks
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snipped-for-privacy@cin.net wrote:

Not sure if Norbide is what your refering to, but here is a link to a Norbide dressing stick on ebay:
"Trade name for boron carbide, an artificial abrasive; chemical formula, BC. It is markedly harder than silicon carbide and second only to diamond."
http://tinyurl.com/de6bhv
Best, Steve
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Steve Saling
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No its not norbide, that black very hard hand dresser for touching up regular aluminum oxide & silicon carbide grit grinding wheels. It reminded me of a piece of very soft carbide, but like I said it would wear fast & remove diamond from the wheel.
BTW the Okomoto grinder is in very nice shape. It has roller way bearings & has gives a very nice finish on steel with regular wheels.
One other thing, any recommendations on grinding wheel selection for titanium? We use these green ones, probably silicon carbide 60grit. They do ok, but wheel load generating heat is a big issue. We should have water I know.
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snipped-for-privacy@cin.net wrote:

Milgil:
    I've never used the stick you mention, but here's a post from a few years ago I made.
=========================================================== I'm certainly not an expert in diamond wheel dressing, but I've done it. First you should get the diamond wheel running as true as you can with an indicator (actually I put a piece of thin shim stock between the indicator ball and the diamond wheel so it wouldn't flatten out my indicator ball). I then took a toolpost grinder used for our manual lathes, made a flat plate for it and put it on the surface grinder. Took a green wheel (silicon carbide), and adapted it to the toolpost grinder. Dressed the green wheel and then proceeded to crank the spinning toolpost grinding wheel under the spinning diamond wheel, taking a tenth or two at a time. It actually worked better than I thought it would. Sidewheeling the diamond wheel might pose greater difficulties. One further note; after you've dressed the diamond wheel NEVER take it off the hub. Always remove the hub AND the wheel as a unit. And to lessen the chance that anyone might remove the wheel from the hub itself write "Do Not Remove" on the wheel and then epoxy the spanner wrench holes so it can't be easily removed. ===========================================================
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BottleBob
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On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 04:14:25 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@cin.net wrote:

Does it have roller bearing ways or flat ways? That slightly rippled finish can be a sign of roller bearing ways, or marginal spindle bearings
Gunner
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snipped-for-privacy@cin.net wrote:

Here;
http://www.ind.nortonabrasives.com/Media/Documents/S0000000000000001035/Norton%20Full%20Line%202007%20Dressing%20Sticks.pdf
On page six you will see the Norton Brake Controlled Truing Devices and good instructions on how to properly true and dress superabrasives;
http://www.ind.nortonabrasives.com/Media/Documents/S0000000000000001035/Norton%20Full%20Line%202009%20Diamond%20&%20CBN%20Products.pdf
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On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 04:14:25 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@cin.net wrote:

A couple of years ago, the Forman at the shop where I have some carbide form drills/tools made, sent me a slug of molybdenum to take the taper out, and reduce the radius on the leading edge of my finish wheel on my Agathon.
Matt
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