Dynabrade jitterbugs, scotchbrite, alum

Awl --

My buddy brought over a palm-type air random orbital sander, with a relatively small rectangular footprint of 3 x 4.25", with a velcro/"hook'n'loop" type base. No internal/external vacuum. Dynabrade 58500, not cheap -- $250.

Using my old 8-hole Bosch round velcro 100 grit sanding discs, followed by maroon scotchbrite, gives a perty nice satin finish, on 1/4" x 12 x 36-48

6061 material for anodizing/powder coating. I'm sponging down the alum with a pumice-type hand cleaner, for now, prior to this.

Despite the small footprint, this unit seems to have some oomph, is much better balanced and easier to use than my semi-hi-end variable speed Bosch orbitals, which seem to have some reliability issues and quality/longevity problems.

Stuff seems to go pretty quick with this unit, despite the small footprint. I'm guessing that the small footprint also allows more pressure for a given hand exertion, which may indirectly help speed up the process.

Does this sound like good bang for my finishing buck? I'm basically looking for efficient strategies, as well as mebbe some "artistic tips" ito finishing.

For example, the satin finish is the most expeditious (certainly easier than a high polish), but I'm wondering if people deliberately play around with rough grits/rough scotchbrite, to get the metallic equivalent of "distressed wood". Inyone done this, with good effect?

Is there a "typical" sequence of grit/scotchbrite for traditional satinizing? Is the dynabrade a good unit for this job? Any cheaper quality units? fwiw, Dynabrade seems to be Merkin made, and is a NY company. Is the footprint "right"?

Does scotchbrite create dust? It seems to mostly make the aluminum gray/greasy, which washes right off. I'm assuming I want have to do a final washing, if the anodizer uses his caustic etch stuff. I do the initial washing, just to keep the pads/paper fresher longer.

Would the "grain" direction of a timesaver be acceptable, or even desirable? Do timesavers use scotchbrite, as well?

Lastly, does it make sense to wash scotchbrite, with the accumulated aluminum crud?

I have come to like the rectangular footprint, as it makes cutting sandpaper/scotchbrite easier, not to mention the "corner issue", yet the round footprints seem to predominate. Iny ideas why?

tia.

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®
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Most folks I know, including me, would use a sandblaster or a vibratory tumbler for this stuff. Your parts are too big for the tumbler, obviously, so think about blasting. Don't need a fancy cabinet. Just a wooden box and someplace where you don't mind getting a bit of grit splashed around. And a good ski mask and some goggles and gloves. Any sandblaster will do, if you can change tips to get the spread you want. Blast medium can be anything from beach sand to baking soda, to get just the right finish.

It'll take a bit of practice, maybe, to get the finish uniform. Sorta like spray painting. After that, it should be quick and easy and cheap. And LOTS less work than what you're doing now.

KG

KG

Reply to
Kirk Gordon

Quality is always cheaper than the kind of crap you buy... cheap Chinese drills from Costco that need to be reground.

I can't help you (Actually, I doubt if anyone can because you're a first class moron who refuses to pay his dues by apprenticing in a machining job shop part time) with artistic. I can tell you the best way to do production finishing for what you describe is a TimeSavers which you mention. Buy a used one.

Too slow just like you.

Stop buying cheap crap and spend the money on quality like Dynabrade. They make great tools.

No.

Yes... is there some reason you haven't figured this out for yourself already?

Correct.

Yes on both counts. I machined many amplifier face plates for Dan D'Agostino's Krell in Milford, CT. All their face plates had a grain added to them after I was done machining them.

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Yes.

Jon Banquer San Diego, CA

Reply to
jon_banquer

There is no reason to do *any* washing if the process is done right. All washing does is waste time.

Jon Banquer San Diego, CA

Reply to
jon_banquer

Quality is always cheaper than the kind of crap you buy... cheap Chinese drills from Costco that need to be reground.

I can't help you (Actually, I doubt if anyone can because you're a first class moron who refuses to pay his dues by apprenticing in a machining job shop part time) with artistic. I can tell you the best way to do production finishing for what you describe is a TimeSavers which you mention. Buy a used one.

Too slow just like you.

Stop buying cheap crap and spend the money on quality like Dynabrade. They make great tools.

No.

Yes... is there some reason you haven't figured this out for yourself already?

Correct.

Yes on both counts. I machined many amplifier face plates for Dan D'Agostino's Krell in Milford, CT. All their face plates had a grain added to them after I was done machining them.

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Yes.

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Goodgawd, folks, I think the world is coming to an end! Relatively mild insults aside, jb's response was actually relevant, and might have actually been useful!!!

Is this a first???? Holy shit....

Mebbe the view of himself in drag in a Philippine prison shook him up a little??

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

Quality is always cheaper than the kind of crap you buy... cheap Chinese drills from Costco that need to be reground.

I can't help you (Actually, I doubt if anyone can because you're a first class moron who refuses to pay his dues by apprenticing in a machining job shop part time) with artistic. I can tell you the best way to do production finishing for what you describe is a TimeSavers which you mention. Buy a used one.

Too slow just like you.

Stop buying cheap crap and spend the money on quality like Dynabrade. They make great tools.

====================================

formatting link
similar looking jitterbug, $19.95!!!

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

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