3 way switches

Hi. I am sorry in advance if this is not the correct newsgroup to post this to. If someone knows of a more proper one, please tell me. I have an outlet in my living room controlled by 2 three-way switches. This is weird to say the least. If I turn on the power at switch A then walk to switch B and turn off the power at switch, it goes off like it is supposed to. HOWEVER, if I go back to switch A to turn the power back on it does not work. It seem that whatever switch the power is turned off at either A or B, it must be turned on at that same switch. Is this a wiring problem or is it possible one or both of the switches is bad? Or even the outlet? I have other 3 way switches in the house, and they work fine. Can turn power on or off at either one interchangeably. Thanks for any help. Eric Swope

Reply to
Eric and Megan Swope
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Call a qualified electrician and have him fix the problem for you.

Reply to
Brian

Either wiring or switch(es). Its more likely that a switch has one bad position. Or a bad connection at one switch. It might be the wiring, particularly of you've drilled a hole or driven a nail into the wall lately. Try the switches first. They're easier to replace.

Find a 'How to wire for dummies' book and make sure you understand how three way switches work before doing it yourself (with the breaker off, of course).

Least likely. If the outlet were bad, flipping the switches wouldn't turn anything on or off.

Reply to
Paul Hovnanian P.E.

Sounds like whoever wired it used normal switches, not 3 way switches. If _either_ switch is off, the outlet is off, but only if both switches are on is the outlet on. Correct?

To correct this would require not only replacing both switches with

3 way switches but running wiring between them. If you have to ask, you really should call an electrician.

I suppose another possibility is they are 3 way switches, just miswired.

Reply to
Michael Moroney

Did it ever work? If so then it is one of the switches.

You will have a hot connection on one switch, and two travelers to the other switch. The other switch has the switch leg to the fixture(s) and the two travelers. One terminal is usually dark(hot/switch leg) and the other two are bright brass (travelers). I have not gotten into all the combinations that can happen. I hope this helps.

Reply to
SQLit

"Eric and Megan Swope" wrote on Saturday (20/12/2003) :

The wiring will be like this:-

o----------------o -------------o--__ __--o--------- o----------------o live in Sw 1 Sw 2 switch wire to light.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

Great ascii art!!!

Just remember "switch wire to light" might be folded back to the box where "live in" resides and you won't be bringing the neutral along so the white wire is hot.

Reply to
Greg

I think you have it here SQ....if it worked before..than the switch is the problem...the wiring..well that's pretty simple. An extra wire....though sometimes the simple can become complicated..... :) ..Ross

Reply to
Ross Mac

correct...but not neccesarily the only way. it could be:

live in |---------o----------------o\ o\--------------------\o \o----------------o-------------|switched live to light. Sw 1 Sw 2

or even the infamous glasgow 2-wire.......the guts of which i will not include as it is highly dangerous......

Danny

Reply to
Daniel Indyk

Yes, it is theoretically possible to do it that way, but it is not done that way. Here's why: (count the wires)

c c Black-------0 0------Black---------0 0-----Light-----+ \ / | 0-------Red----------0 | Switch 1 Switch 2 | | White---------WN-------White-------WN----------------+

The above uses 3 wires between the junction boxes "hosting" the switches. (c is the common terminal on each switch)

VERSUS

Black----------WN-+ | | o +---Black------o\ o\--------White--------\o \o-------Red-------o--------light--+ Sw 1 Sw 2 | | White--------WN-----White--------WN----White-----+

The above uses 4 wires between the junction boxes "hosting" the switches. It also requires an extra wire nut (WN) & jumper in the Sw 1 box. You can't put 2 wires under one screw on the switch (illegal), so you have to connect three blacks in a wire nut, and run the added third wire to the switch.

The proper method is the first one - the second method would take more time to install, and use more wire and an extra wire nut and jumper. Electricians don't do that.

Reply to
ehsjr

Here is the way you wire a 3-way switch. keep in mind that the white wire running between the swithes is not a nuetral. It is a hot wire when energized. the reason we use a white here is, Romex cable has 3 wires (black, red, white) and we need three hot wires to make the circuit thus, we use the white for a hot.

B| |w l| |h a| |i Hot c| Nuetral |t k| |e | | | | 0|----| | | s | | | w | | | 1 | | -----0|----|0--- | | |W | R| |h | e| |i | d| |t | |----0|----|0--|e | | s | 0---| | w | | 0 | | 2 | | 0 | |----|0----------0---| Black

Reply to
Carl.bedwell

1) IF you have two conductor cable (red/black/white) the only time you need to use white as "hot" is when you have a "switch loop" whereby you send the "hot" to a distant 3 way switch on a WHITE wire and bring it back on black or red depending upon the position of the 3-way switch. The intent is to eliminate the need of connecting a fixture (lamp) to two white wires. 2) in the original problem, it looks from here like the two switches are in series. This will happen in someone doesn't properly identify the common leg on the 3-way switch. (I ALWAYS use the multimeter to ensure I know what 3 way switches are doing.) Also, when there is a problem is 3-way/4-way switches and you are new to the scene, DISCONNECT the switches and start over. Don't ASSume anything about the connections. (Been there, done that!) Just do simple tests to chek out the wires, other simple tests to check out the switches, make a diagram, and then re-connect.
Reply to
John Gilmer

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