electric outlet for window AC question

That would depend on the application.

Actually I have seen other systems. However what is possible or more important practical depends on the particular application.

Yes, and maybe best, but always feasible. .

I am curious about why you want air flow to each room all the time. I guess there are good reasons.

Sounds like a good plan. I suggest consulting with the professionals before you finalize things, but there is plenty of time until then. Forming a good idea of what results you want and what problems you have observed elsewhere is a very good start. If it is your home, you should consider all your concerns.

Reply to
Joseph Meehan
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Gee Roy, You responded to my post, which contained nothing of what Tom said, nor anything about the use of 15A receptacles on a 20 amp circuit.

For the record, it is allowed in the NEC. Note that you must have more than one receptacle on the circuit.

Ed

Reply to
ehsjr

From: snipped-for-privacy@ipal.net On Mon, 13 Jun 2005 05:08:50 -0400 Roy Q.T. wrote: | I'm shocked to read that FireMan Tom would suggest that the NEC allows | for a 15Amp device on a 20Amp protected circuit...It does Not Allow for | that, & it is a violation albeit a mild one, but nevertheless improper & | Not Recommended. All he's done is attack every reply i post here... and | now he's just being ridiculous and harmful.He must think I'm some punk | tech from his township., I've been doing Electrical Troubleshooting & | Installations for over 30 years and seen plenty stupidity like that go | unchecked because they believe in the " pros " that did it, and not in | the letter of the codes and the wording of the specifications and | experience. Receptacle devices conforming to NEMA 5-15R and 6-15R configurations really _are_ "rated" at 20 amps, even though they will refuse to accept plugs for appliances with NEMA 5-20P and 6-20P configurations. They really are 20 amp devices if they have a legitimate UL listing. In reality, they (at least the good ones) will survive a sustained 30 amp load (maybe even more), as long as there are no hot spot or arcing contact problems in the connected wiring. | Leave it alone; Get the proper sized Receptacle & Breaker for the new | circuit you are running for your Air Conditioner. | I'm through with this....... Now you have time to get your meds refilled.

-- Phil I thought you were on my side here., you sound like you know lots about Meds and P Sigh Chi Atree ., but it seems you're probably Dr. Jekyl's Patient

----------------------------------------=AEoy

Reply to
Roy Q.T.

From: snipped-for-privacy@ipal.net In alt.engineering.electrical John Gilmer wrote: If you have a zone control system that shuts off selected air ducts, then you can easily end up with insufficient air flow. | "Easily?" =A0 Nah! | | It can happen but simple stuff like a thermostat in the main distribution | duct (before the dampners) that would either shut off the compressor or over | ride a "decision" to close a dampner can "solve" that problem. | | If ALL zones are satisfied, the compressor should shut down in any case. But what if one zone needs cooling?

--

---------------------------------------------- Phil what have you been putting in your head :-) ? Knuckles ?

Daaahhah: If a zone needs cooling all the other damper shut off the flow to all other zones, but, the zone that needs addressing stays open until it satisfies it's own thermostat. =AE

----------------------------------------------

Reply to
Roy Q.T.

Sorry Ed, Tom is fusing The Matter even further. ~> more below

From: snipped-for-privacy@bellatlantic.net (ehsjr) Roy Q.T. wrote: I'm shocked to read that FireMan Tom would suggest that the NEC allows for a 15Amp device on a 20Amp protected circuit...It does Not Allow for that, & it is a violation albeit a mild one, but nevertheless improper & Not Recommended. All he's done is attack every reply i post here... and now he's just being ridiculous and harmful.He must think I'm some punk tech from his township., I've been doing Electrical Troubleshooting & Installations for over 30 years and seen plenty stupidity like that go unchecked because they believe in the " pros " that did it, and not in the letter of the codes and the wording of the specifications and experience. After all: He is a Fireman, he lives for the Sinister Fire to take hold of your property so he can do his job., didn't know he'd stoop to that level though to insure future work. What happened to Better Safe than Sorry ? Leave it alone; Get the proper sized Receptacle & Breaker for the new circuit you are running for your Air Conditioner. I'm through with this....... Roy Gee Roy, You responded to my post, which contained nothing of what Tom said, nor anything about the use of 15A receptacles on a 20 amp circuit. For the record, it is allowed in the NEC. Note that you must have more than one receptacle on the circuit. Ed

The More 15 A Receptacles on the 20A Line the worse it is., let say you have 18.5 Amps Loaded on other 15A receptacles and you think Oh that's cool., then you're nitwit client/friend says what the hell and adds on an extesnsion cord with an outlet strip at the end with another 9-12 amps load to it, what do you think will happen?

They Are Not Permitted in the NEC, do not assume they do....from semantics.

They strictly state that you do not use any underrated devices., all over the tome. =AE

Reply to
Roy Q.T.

| But what if one zone needs cooling? | -- | ---------------------------------------------- | Phil what have you been putting in your head :-) ? Knuckles ? | | Daaahhah: If a zone needs cooling all the other damper shut off the flow | to all other zones, but, the zone that needs addressing stays open until | it satisfies it's own thermostat. ? | ----------------------------------------------

If all the others are shut off, then the air flow rate is reduced. With reduced air flow rate, the cooling coils can freeze up before that room reaches desired temperature. I see it happen with 2 zones. An 8 zone system would be much worse.

Reply to
phil-news-nospam

| pictures. 15 amps receptacles are rated for use on 20 amp | circuits AND are rated to not provide more than 15 amps | continuous:

I would not say they are "rated" to provide more than 15 amps, but instead I would choose a word like "configured" or "designed". They could very well be perfectly safe in an electrical sense delivering 20 amps or more to a single plug. They may well be the exact same conductive parts as the 20 amp version, differing only in the face molding and stamped insignias. Or in the lesser case where it cannot really provide more than 15 amps to a single output, it can still provide a total of 20 amps to both outlets together in a duplex device. Several years ago I "disassembled" (destructively) a 15 amp duplex receptacle and a 20 amp duplex receptacle (made by a major US manufacturer), extracting the inside metal parts. The 20 amp version had contacts for both vertical and horizontal blades on the neutral. The 15 amp version had the same exact contacts, even though a 20 amp plug would not be able to be inserted into the 15 amp version. All the conductive metal parts were the same thickness and design. As far as I could see, the manufacturing of these metal parts were the same for either a 15 amp version or a 20 amp version. I guess it was cheaper to have a single production line, than to knock off a little bit of metal that would limit contact support in the 15 amp version to only 15 amp plugs.

Reply to
phil-news-nospam

|>|>| A well designed central system have few problems, likely fewer |>|>| than a number of single room systems. If you read here, you will |>|>| see the results of problem systems. We don't get questions about |>|>| well designed and installed systems. We get very few question |>|>| about the room units (as you are describing) but that is because |>|>| they are not common. |>|>

|>|> I would guess that the vast majority of installed central A/C are |>|> not properly designed and installed. |>| |>| Sad to say I agree. |>

|> And how much would it cost to get one to be well designed for 12 |> zones? |> This would have to be a design that sustains air flow in all zones. | | That would depend on the application.

A house where:

  1. Each major room has its own temperature setting, and if possible, a relative humidity or dew point setting. Major rooms are each bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, dining, living, great room, etc.

  1. Each room has selectable air flow that can be sustained even if that room is at desired temperature (e.g. closing a duct damper won't work).

|>|> I suspect that zoning by means of controlled air flow (e.g. shut off |>|> the air to rooms that are already sufficiently cool) is a culprit in |>|> A/C coils freezing up because the zone system sometimes runs too |>|> little |>|> air past. |>| |>| In a poorly designed system, yes. In a properly designed system |>| no. |>

|> The only zoning systems I have seen do it by shutting off air flow to |> the zones not to be cooled. And given that I will need at least 8 |> zones, possibly as many as 12, I suspect this will be a problem. | | Actually I have seen other systems. However what is possible or more | important practical depends on the particular application.

A house.

|> OTOH, zoning by means of several smaller "central" style A/C systems |> might still be feasible | | Yes, and maybe best, but always feasible.

So far I have not found such units small enough.

|> But one issue is that I need to have the air flow in each room whether |> or not that room needs a temperature change. If I use mini-splits in |> all the rooms, I'd still have the central air flow ducting in place |> with a passive blower. But I'd prefer connecting them together |> somehow |> if I can find a way, where the room unit has air fed from that central |> air flow system. |>

| | I am curious about why you want air flow to each room all the time. I | guess there are good reasons.

I don't necessarily want it all the time. I just want to be able to have it without being tied into heating/cooling. A typical one zone central system does have a fan auto/on switch. I often turn the fan on. But if it is a multiple zone system controlled by dampers shutting ducts off when that zone or room reaches desired temperature, then it cuts off the air there as well. I still want to get the air, but without the heat/cool. That would add more complexity to the system since now each zone will need to do a bypass, meaning a 2-way damper, separate blowers, times the number of zones (8-12). It would be a nightmare as a central system.

|>|> But I would never have a zoning system that is based on cutting air |>|> flow |>|> as the control means. So what else is there? |>| |>| So even if it were properly designed you would reject it? |>

|> Not necessarily. I'm just very skeptical that it can really happen. |> I'm not planning my house design around the prospect of a proper |> design being feasible. | | Sounds like a good plan. I suggest consulting with the professionals | before you finalize things, but there is plenty of time until then. Forming | a good idea of what results you want and what problems you have observed | elsewhere is a very good start. If it is your home, you should consider all | your concerns.

The air flow itself does not literally need to be centralized, either. Since the construction will be post-and-beam style, air ducts will need separate consideration. And so I do have to plan where those go as part of the whole layout. Adequate air flow would be less ducting than any central heating/cooling system would need, since it won't really need to go to the central location. Outside mix can be acquired in most rooms. Recirculation within the room would work in many cases. And maybe all I need are some good ceiling fans instead. Much is undecided.

Reply to
phil-news-nospam

Roy, I read it from the NEC, I do not assume. A 15 ampere receptacle is most definitely permitted on a 20 ampere branch circuit that has two or more receptacles or outlets. See article 210.21 (B)(3) which states: "Where connected to a branch circuit supplying two or more receptacles or outlets, receptacle ratings shall conform to Table 210.21(B)(3), or where larger than 50 amperes, the receptacle rating shall not be less than the branch-circuit rating." Table 210.21(B)(3) gives the receptacle rating for a

20 ampere branch circuit as 15 or 20.

It is not semantics - it is clearly stated in the NEC.

Ed

Reply to
ehsjr

From: snipped-for-privacy@bellatlantic.net (ehsjr) Roy Q.T. wrote: Gee Roy, You responded to my post, which contained nothing of what Tom said, nor anything about the use of 15A receptacles on a 20 amp circuit. For the record, it is allowed in the NEC. Note that you must have more than one receptacle on the circuit. Ed The More 15 A Receptacles on the 20A Line the worse it is., let say you have 18.5 Amps Loaded on other 15A receptacles and you think Oh that's cool., then you're nitwit client/friend says what the hell and adds on an extesnsion cord with an outlet strip at the end with another 9-12 amps load to it, what do you think will happen? They Are Not Permitted in the NEC, do not assume they do....from semantics. Roy, I read it from the NEC, I do not assume. A 15 ampere receptacle is most definitely permitted on a 20 ampere branch circuit that has two or more receptacles or outlets. See article 210.21 (B)(3) which states: "Where connected to a branch circuit supplying two or more receptacles or outlets, receptacle ratings shall conform to Table 210.21(B)(3), or where larger than 50 amperes, the receptacle rating shall not be less than the branch-circuit rating." Table 210.21(B)(3) gives the receptacle rating for a 20 ampere branch circuit as 15 or 20. It is not semantics - it is clearly stated in the NEC. Ed

Ed you know there are 3 ways to interpret what you read and mentioned here., " Your Way ", Then, "My Way" & " The Correct Way "., as you mentioned: Check Out NEC Table 210.21(B) (3) Again where it's clearly specified

Circuit Rating Receptacle Rating

15 Not Over 15 20 15 or 20 30 30 40 40 or 50 50 50

Now That Is Big Time BS & shaving Off Accuracy, and left to And, If & Or. as you may deduce below.

NOTE {{{The case I mentioned Was a Real LIfe Browned/Melted 15 A Receptacle on a 20 Amp Circuit }}}

  • From Table 210.21(B)(2) you can clearly see that a load over 16 Amps Requires a 20Amp Receptacle, minimum.

All I'm Saying is: Why Fiddle with the Numbers and go with a Lesser Circuit Ready Device, if you're wiring for 20A go with the Like Rated Products.

Roy

Reply to
Roy Q.T.

NEC 210.21 [(B)(1)] ~ Receptacles: A single receptacle installed on an individual branch circuit shall have an ampere rating "not less" than that of the branch circuit. =AEoy

From: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com On 8 Jun 2005 04:21:48 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@ipal.net wrote: It could just be that I can't find the part of the code that says a 15 amp circuit cannot have a 20 amp receptacle Look at 210.21(B)(3) again. The top line says 15a circuits shall have receptacles "not over 15a"

Reply to
Roy Q.T.

Ref.: Table 210.21 (B) (2)

Basically: All Sales, Installations & Hardware Destruction aside, & from a Purely Scientific Stand Point ~ I think Someone Goofed Up on that Section of Code.

Experience is a Far Greater Teacher than Books alone.

Roy Q.T.

Reply to
Roy Q.T.

Why?

The goal was/is to reduce the need ofr extension cords. Having a string of outlets relatively close together on one circuit doesn't mean that each outlet can (at the same time) provide 15/20 amps but that, generally, you don't have to run an extension cord for the lamp, or whatever.

The same idea is behind requirements for outlets at windows in store fronts and for GFCI outlets outside.

IF someone has the need for heavy drawing appliances (Air Conditioners, room heaters, whatever) then you bump up against the overall protection for the circuit. If everyhing in a room is on the same string, there is no incentive to run an extension cord.

Yeah. But in this case, all "experience" can do beyond the code is make you put in more than one circuit in your living room. And then your "experience" has to tell you how to demark when one circuit's outlets are and where the other one is. AND you have now created an incentive for running extension cords if there are TWO heavy loads in one corner.

Reply to
John Gilmer
*** I've suggested nothing of the sort***

You asked me " Why ? " Let me answer : Living Room and AC outlets are not the sum of Receptacle Use., The case I mentioned was a Commercial Location ~>Backwall to Counters~> had several outlets all fully duped with plugs one had melted the plug on the extension cord and had signs of browning along the slots }:-o {I wired a seperate circuit for the display/counters and added 20A rate receptacles and circuits wiring to panel & breakers}=3D[@ a CellPhone Outlet] {used charges and fans alot.... despite of AC} Now if I had taken the General Consensus on Receptacles Discussed Here, I would have been troubled & felt negligent of my observations.

If anyone is giving insentives out it's those that post Images of how wrong it is to do better than code work.

Code Case Senarios are Basic, Minimum & Proper Safety Requirement Rules, in this case meeting codes is easy., Analyzing & Preparing a Circuit for Long Term Functionality, Safety & Versatility isn't.

Experience said nothing else here but; To use Rated & Properly Selected Materials where you will not be supervising or controling the use of your work thereafter & in the years to come.... =AEoy

Reply to
Roy Q.T.

| NEC 210.21 [(B)(1)] ~ Receptacles: A single receptacle installed on an | individual branch circuit shall have an ampere rating "not less" than | that of the branch circuit.

What part of "single" are you having trouble understanding, Roy?

Reply to
phil-news-nospam

Hi Roy,

There is *no* interpretation. Listed 15 and 20 ampere receptacles are identical with the exception of the T slot. A 15 A receptacle will handle the current the same as a

20 A receptacle. The copper, dimensions, material etc. are all the same, with the exception of the T slot.

Your receptacle did not melt because it was rated 15 vs 20. I've had to replace burned/melted 20 amp receptacles on 20 amp branch circuits. It's the use/abuse and age of the receptacle that causes failure, not the rating.

It says that the *maximum* load is 16 amps, not *over* 16 amps. Remember the 80% rule. 210.23(A)(1) Equipment manufacturers of cord and plug connected equipment requiring over 12 amps must use a plug that mates with a NEMA-5 20 receptacle or equivalent. That means the flat blades of the plug must be at 90 degrees to one another. Such a plug cannot fit into a 15 A receptacle.

You are not fiddling with the numbers. Listed receptacles rated at 15 A or 20 A have identical current carrying specifications.

Ed

Reply to
ehsjr
050616 0130 - Roy Q.T. posted:

So, what if you put a 20 Amp duplex receptacle on a 15 Amp branch circuit?

Reply to
indago

|> * From Table 210.21(B)(2) you can clearly see that a load over 16 Amps |> Requires a 20Amp Receptacle, minimum. | | It says that the *maximum* load is 16 amps, not *over* 16 | amps. Remember the 80% rule. 210.23(A)(1) | Equipment manufacturers of cord and plug connected equipment | requiring over 12 amps must use a plug that mates with a | NEMA-5 20 receptacle or equivalent. That means the flat blades | of the plug must be at 90 degrees to one another. Such a plug | cannot fit into a 15 A receptacle.

210.23(A)(1) is Cord-and-Plug-Connected Equipment Not Fastened in Place. The rating of any one cord-and-plug-connected utilization equipment not fastened in place shall not exceed 80 percent of the branch-circuit ampere rating.

That's 80 percent of the BRANCH CIRCUIT rating. 80 percent of 20 amps is 16 amps. So in theory, if I have multiple NEMA 5-15R receptacles on a 20 amp branch circuit, I could draw up to 16 amps from one outlet and not violate this rule. I would not worry about it in a technical sense with respect to the receptacle since I know it is rated to 20 amps. The plug in use might not be, but 20 amp plugs don't appear to be any more robust than 15 amp plugs; they just have a twisted neutral.

So which rule would I be violating if in this case a single cord-and-plug connected appliance draw more than 12 amps? What rule requires equipment over 12 amps to use a NEMA 5-20P or larger? A UL listing requirement?

Reply to
phil-news-nospam

No. The NEC, and likewise the UL and the CEC, do not *always* "err on the side of caution". They mostly set practical, generally very safe conventions.

- NRen2k5

Reply to
NRen2k5

You guys are Bizarre, too inquisitive & argumentative.

my rebuttal:

Even if i agreed with the lot of you on each of your noted points, you'd still think I have a problem understanding this Post or it's Merits and Solutions. With that in mind, The Hell with It.,

I didn't come here to argue over Picky Ninny Engineering Standards that don't have apparent reason for excising but to arrange arguments over everything and anything Electrical that is Manufactured. Some No-Code Literate people think they do the dandiest things with plugs and receptacles regardless of the NEC or these arguements.

It's either the Best Solution or I leave it alone.... Teachers think different from most of you and I don't care., but you told them what & how you want it & how you made it., not the other way around, You are All Confusing and wrong about me somehow. I'd swear right back today }:-p

Since my expertise is Technical., you just keep giving us the best designs possible for the best Installation/assembly possible.

And Phil; don't harass me any more over what you think I don't understand, I am not dumb, didn't I spell it out with positive assertion?, some of you are damn near insulting and inhospitable like in here ... some of you are cool, others perhaps just confused about my assertions. Roy ~ E.E. Tech

Reply to
Roy Q.T.

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