GFCI Outlet Installation

Those make contact with the

Some months ago "someone" on this NG was touting a replacement for the wirenut that to all appearances is equivalent to the "push in" you see on cheap outlets.

I purchased a recessed ceiling fixture (new work type) that has these already "in the box" but I haven't used it yet. I haven't seen them at the local BIG BOX store but I haven't looked lately.

Problem is, of course, is when "they" start selling GOOD "push ins" many folks will remember the NOT so good "push ins." Maybe that's why I don't see them at HD.

I believe GFCI's give the option now for both back wiring, and terminal wiring.

I mean newer ones, I changed out one from my kitchen, and found it had no back wire options, only terminal screws. It's about 10 years old.

later,

tom @

Most of the GFCI receptacles you are talking about are listed to be wired either way. The Leviton rear clamping type is listed for either termination method for example. If the device is not listed for side wire by using the screws the screws would be tightly shrouded by the plastic housing to make mis wiring difficult.

-- Tom H

Interesting.. I live in a small 2 level townhouse. There are 3 breakers (switches) labeled "lighting" in the breaker panel. One of those breakers controls the downstairs lighting, and the other 2 control the upstairs lighting. There are other breakers in the breaker panel labeled range, A/C, water, dryer, etc., and one labeled "main" that shuts everything off. I tested all of the upstairs receptacle and switches that are controlled by the same breaker as the GFCI receptacle. They all tested normal. Could a problem with a receptacle/switch controlled by one breaker cause a problem with a receptacle/switch controlled by another breaker? If yes, how might that happen? If possible, please explain it to me at the high school level. I know the basics of series/parallel circuit design, but not much more.

Thanks for all of your help (everybody),

Dave

One answer was posted previously. This is simple point to point wiring. Nothing that requires an advanced education. But translating simple diagrams from and to text requires careful reading. Now that answer which but one example:

Wire wires from different circuits connected together will not trip conventional circuit breakers but will be detected by GFCI units.

BTW, if you have determ> Interesting.. I live in a small 2 level townhouse. There are 3 breakers

GFCIs are not c> Most of the GFCI receptacles you are talking about are listed to be

(John=A0Gilmer) wrote: =A0=A0Those make contact with the wires via spring tension. The newer GFCI's have a clamp in the holes, which is tightened onto the wires when you tighten the screws. Some months ago "someone" on this NG was touting a replacement for the wirenut that to all appearances is equivalent to the "push in" you see on cheap outlets. I purchased a recessed ceiling fixture (new work type) that has these already "in the box" but I haven't used it yet. =A0 I haven't seen them at the local BIG BOX store but I haven't looked lately. Problem is, of course, is when "they" start selling GOOD "push ins" many folks will remember the NOT so good "push ins." =A0 Maybe that's why I don't see them at HD. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~>

I have a box full of assorted push in wire connectors, I always say to my self I am going to use these to do an impressive job foe someone lucky., some of them have there own test point/hole so you don't have to take them off or shove wires aside to test., I think I'm saving them for my own home };-)

Roy

Duh!

BUT if you spent more for your "conventional" outlets, you will get a variation of the "clamp" on the GFCI.

Interesting. Although, I don't think any of my switches or receptacles are controlled by more than one circuit breaker. But, I'll look out for it.

Dave

I don't think all the replies were based on the above material you quoted. It was this line(quoted below) that you wrote that may have engendered them - it is the reason I responded, at any rate. "That was not a reference to GFCIs that can only connect using screws."

Your above statement is not wrong - but it may be misunderstood. The point being that with these GFCI's the wires can connect via screw tightened *clamps* as well as by wrapping around the screws. The better practice with the newer GFCI is to use the holes in the back. The clamp, not the screw, holds the wire, and it does a better job of using the force that the screw exerts - it "bites" the wire better. It uses the screws allright, but does not require wrapping the wire around the screw.

Ed

The following answer is in response to your question. It is not related to your problem, which right now boils down to not knowing where the capped wires go. Ok, setting that problem aside.... Ignoring bizaare events and wiring errors, there is a way for that to happen, if you have shared neutral circuits. If the neutral wire opens on a multiwire (shared neutral) circuit, then the breaker on one circuit can affect the equipment on the other circuit. The open neutral causes the two circuits to be in series. I'll try to draw a diagram of a shared neutral circuit: hot1----------equipment--+ neutral--------------------+ hot2----------eguipment--+ In the above, the current can flow from the hot, through the equipment back to the panel via the neutral. (The + signs indicate that everything is connected together.) There is an open in the neutral in the diagram below: hot1----------equipment--+ neutral-------open ------+ hot2----------eguipment--+ In this diagram, current cannot flow from the hot, through the equipment and back to the panel via the neutral. But it can flow through the equipment connected to the other hot. The effect is that the two pieces of equipment are in series, and the circuit breaker for either hot leg will affect both pieces of equipment.

Ed

Those newer GFCIs with wires in the back still required a screw to be tightened. I appreciate how some could have misconstrued what I had posted. The point about wiring conventional outlets was made as a sidebar; not intended directly as part of the original question.

I never saw a GFCI that clamped a wire without tighten> I don't think all the replies were based on the above material you quoted.