Do you have a schematic? There will be an capacitor in series
with the start winding. It will connect thru 2 sets of contacts
from the drum switch to the start winding and, usually, neutral.
One set for forward (agitate) and the other set for reverse
(spin/drain). These contacts reverse the polarity of the start
cap wrt the start winding. If this is the case, the answer to
your question is yes.
Thank you for the info. The schematic shows the capacitor. The washer
is headed for the junk heap since it will not pump out (however it will
spin). I guess the problem is in the controller and given the cost(s)
of parts and labor it is just as easy to get a new one.
If it will spin, it should drain. I had a Maytag that would not
drain one time. A sock had gotten over the tub somehow and
plugged the hose going to the pump. Also, the Maytag's pump was
run by a belt. Dont know about the Whirlpool. Could be worth a look.
Years ago dishwashers pumped the water out by reversing the motor. Now, a
"waste valve" opens and causes the water to go out.
In clothes washing machines the "standard" now seems to be to have a special
transmission that causes aggitation when the motor goes one direction and
spin when the motor goes in reverse.
Pumping out the water is usually done by a separate motor today although
some models still use a solenoid when causes the pump to be driven by the
It just doesn't take much power (relative the that needed for spinning or
aggitation) to pump the water out. The separate motor defintiely makes the
No plugs in any line(s) or valves. Pump is direct drive from a shaft on
opposite side of motor from transmision. On the spot(s) on the
controller where it should pump out (no spin) nothing happens (no motor
noise). On the spots where it should spin it spins but no water is
pumped out (there is a small amount of water in the washer after most
is bailed out).
I have gotten to the point where this is a real puzzle to find the
problem. I had an idea that the motor might have a seperate armatute
driving the pump but only three are showen low, high and start.
Thanks again for the replies.
Believe it or not, the first time I opened up a top loading automatic washer
was back in 1957/58 when I was about 14 years old.
We rented but my parents bought the whole house of furniture including the
washer. It was all "as is."
I fixed a few "little things" that over the next few years. The water
pump, I recall had a bearing failure which caused a good sized leak
(required replacing the body of the pump). On another occasion, the bond
between the impeller and the pump shaft failed. The shaft would turn (when
the solenoic engaged it) but inside nothing was happening.
So if your pump ain't pumping you might want to ensure first the the pump is
actually turning and then ensure that the impeller is still whole and still
part of the pump.
Note that because "stuff" often gets into the washing machine, the impellers
are often made of some flexible material and bonding to the shaft might with
OR, you some "stuff" might have destroyed the blades of the impeller.
Basically, you gots to take apart the pump and make sure it hasn't been
damaged and that it does turn when the motor turns.
Speaking of "reverse" starting a pump:
Two dish washers ago the machine would start a wash or a rinse segment and
the next thing the water was all gone.
Turns out the bearings got loose enough that the machine drains even when
the motor was going in the pump direction (this was a machine that reversed
to pump out the water.) It wasn't particularly efficient pumping out the
water but, hey, it had 5 minutes to do the job! I was amazed that the
sears didn't fair or the motor didn't "crash.:
Since there is a lot of other wear and tear on on older dish washer, once I
know for sure that it will take some work to fix I just replace with new.
Does the machine go into the spin cycle if you switch it to that? We just
bought a refurbished washer and when we got it home it would not pump the
water out. It would fill up, agetate, then just sit there. Called the place
we bought it from and he fixed it in like 5 minutes. It was the connector to
the safety switch on the top of the machine. It wasn't plugged in. Just a
thought, maybe check the lid safety switch.
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