On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 10:46:45 +0100, "John Nice" <johnDOTniceATbtinternetDOTcom>
:> On Wed, 15 Apr 2009 21:41:33 +0100, "John Nice"
:<snip>> :Before I had access to a crimping tool and the correct F-crimp
:> :used thin tinned copper wire. I would bind the tinsel, thread and all,
:> :the Cu wire, form it round a screw of the correct size, then put a few
:> :round the part where I started. Remove the screw it was formed round and
:> :solder the ring up. PROVIDED you use a spring washer under the screw
:> :get an excellent connection.
:> Spring washers (I assume you mean serrated shakeproof washers)are never a
:> idea either directly under or on top of wire bound terminal eyelets. Where
:> occasional removal of the screw is required the serrated teeth will easily
:> damage the wire binding and shred the terminal eyelet. Ever since wire
:> of tinsel has been used, and I have seen many examples going back to the
:> the only type of washer recommended to be placed in contact with the bound
:> eyelet is a simple flat type (preferably nickel plated). A serrated
:> washer can be used under the screw head on top of the flat washer to
:> prevent the
:> screw loosening due to vibration.
:The problem with wire-bound eyelets is that the profile is effectively a
:point contact and the screw will work loose in mobile applications. I used
:to use spring (not shakeproof) washers when I could find them in the right
:size, failing which a shakeproof over a flat washer would do. But the
:spring was best.
There is nothing to stop you using a flat washer on top of the bound eyelet and
then a spring washer under the head of the screw. The screw will definitely not
come loose due to vibration provided you do it right.