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I'm Back - New Screen Name - Some of the Same Old Questions

After a fairly long hiatus, I'm back. Used to post occasionally as Mark J.

Still using the trusty Handler 120 that was a common topic when I was active on this group back around 99 - 00. And that leads to my questions. I'm planning to do some modifications to a 4 X 8 utility trailer that involves moving some stanchions made of 2 X 2 X 3/16 angle. They are currently and again will be welded to the 3 inch side of some 3/16 thick angle.

A couple of nights ago I searched this group for threads related to my questions all the way back to some of my early posts back in '99.

I figured it would be smart to do a little practice on some scrap before jumping into the job like I usually do.

I butt welded a few strips of flat 1/8 trying out the recommended voltage setting of "3" and wide open "4" and played with wire speed. The I did a 2 inch butt weld of 1/4 inch flat stock with the ends beveled to half the thickness. Did a quick root pass and a stringer at fairly high heat and did a partial cap pass at really high heat just see. Running .030 wire right now and C25.

The 1/4 stock was 2 pieces about 2 feet long each. The resulting 4 foot piece took 3 good smacks on the floor to break the weld. The weldment all stayed to one piece. Penetration didn't look all that great to me, but it did show some penetration.

The 1/8 stuff I put in a vice and tried to fold it along the weld to about 30 degrees. No cracks or breaks. So I welded the now-gapped side on the outside of the angle for more practice. I then sliced that piece into 3 coupons to look at the cross section of the weld penetration. I cross section included a place welded only on the first side. No cracks, no porosity, no visible difference in the parent and filler metal. I hammered one of the coupons back flat from its 30 degree angle and no damage to the weld.

So I think I doing OK with the 1/8 stock, but it was too much to try the 1/4 inch even with multipasses.

Any opinions on whether I'll be able to stick these stanchions back on with this machine and working 3/16 stock. I plan on a little more practice before starting this project, too.

My gut feelings are that I can get it done (I've done some pretty good tricks with this welder before)by being patient and not stressing the duty cycle.

But I figured I'd float this kind of question again and see if I get any additional insight beyond what I came up with by searching old threads.

Thanks in advance, Mark

Reply to
mark13051
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You will have better luck with a Handler 120 if you go down to 0.024" wire. We have 10 of them at school and I have owned one for 12 years.

0.030" wire is a bit heavy for what the Handler can put out.
Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

Thanks Ernie. Wow! I just returned from the store and was reopening the newsgroup and your answer popped up before my eyes. And I'm honored to get the first reply from you.

Yes, I saw that about the smaller wire in a couple of threads I dug up in my search. I've made a mental note to switch back to .024 when I finish off this spool.

Many of the things you've posted over time about your experiences with the Handler 120s have helped me learn to use mine better and to avoid any buyer's remorse over investing in a small machine to start out. Way back, I've posted about some of the impossible jobs I've done with mine just by setting up the work pieces properly and using a little preheat sometimes.

Reply to
mark13051

For every one out there: One additional question on technique: When I weld the stanchions back onto the flat surface of the frame, should I aim the wire more towards the flat surface I'm attaching to, or at a 45 degree angle where I am aiming at the flat surface and the edge of the stanchion equally? I'm thinking that I need to aim a little more into the flat surface to offset the difference in penetration between it and the edge I'm welding to it.

Also, should I run the bead straight, or whip in small circles? I just played with welding a 1/8 flat strip to some 1/4 flat stock. Watching the puddle and experimenting, it seemed to work best with me whipping in very small circles.

Reply to
Mark J

Oh yeah, I figured out out to get my screen name back to Mark J. :)

Reply to
Mark J

Aim the heat towards the heavier materiel. Wash the weld over to the thinner materiel.

110 volt MIGs really need to have a wider bead so weave, circle or do arcs. Anything to add surface area to the weld. You can't really get much penetration on one of these machines so you need to join more surface area.
Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

Thanks Ernie! Since you probably have more experience with the Handler

120 than even the folks at Hobart, please allow me to pick your brain with one more question:

The owner's manual lists recommended settings for 3/16 steel and .030 wire as Voltage 4 and Wire Speed 4-5. Stickout 1/2 inch. I know these are just starting points, and sometimes I end up fine tuning one or the other - usually by sound of the arc if everything else looks right visually.

starting point to weld the edges of 3/16 angle along both sides (edge and outside of angle) to the flat side of 3/16 angle as I'm planning to do?

Thanks.

Reply to
Mark J

I only tend to use 2 settings on the Handler 120's. For steel thinner than 1/8" power at 3, wire at 6. For everything heavier than 1/8" power at 4, wire at 7-8. These are for 0.024" wire, C25 gas.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

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