After a fairly long hiatus, I'm back. Used to post occasionally as Mark
J.
Still using the trusty Handler 120 that was a common topic when I was
active on this group back around 99 - 00. And that leads to my
questions. I'm planning to do some modifications to a 4 X 8 utility
trailer that involves moving some stanchions made of 2 X 2 X 3/16
angle. They are currently and again will be welded to the 3 inch side
of some 3/16 thick angle.
A couple of nights ago I searched this group for threads related to my
questions all the way back to some of my early posts back in '99.
I figured it would be smart to do a little practice on some scrap
before jumping into the job like I usually do.
I butt welded a few strips of flat 1/8 trying out the recommended
voltage setting of "3" and wide open "4" and played with wire speed.
The I did a 2 inch butt weld of 1/4 inch flat stock with the ends
beveled to half the thickness. Did a quick root pass and a stringer at
fairly high heat and did a partial cap pass at really high heat just
see. Running .030 wire right now and C25.
The 1/4 stock was 2 pieces about 2 feet long each. The resulting 4 foot
piece took 3 good smacks on the floor to break the weld. The weldment
all stayed to one piece. Penetration didn't look all that great to me,
but it did show some penetration.
The 1/8 stuff I put in a vice and tried to fold it along the weld to
about 30 degrees. No cracks or breaks. So I welded the now-gapped
side on the outside of the angle for more practice. I then sliced that
piece into 3 coupons to look at the cross section of the weld
penetration. I cross section included a place welded only on the first
side. No cracks, no porosity, no visible difference in the parent and
filler metal. I hammered one of the coupons back flat from its 30
degree angle and no damage to the weld.
So I think I doing OK with the 1/8 stock, but it was too much to try
the 1/4 inch even with multipasses.
Any opinions on whether I'll be able to stick these stanchions back on
with this machine and working 3/16 stock. I plan on a little more
practice before starting this project, too.
My gut feelings are that I can get it done (I've done some pretty good
tricks with this welder before)by being patient and not stressing the
duty cycle.
But I figured I'd float this kind of question again and see if I get
any additional insight beyond what I came up with by searching old
threads.
Thanks in advance,
Mark
You will have better luck with a Handler 120 if you go down to 0.024"
wire.
We have 10 of them at school and I have owned one for 12 years.
0.030" wire is a bit heavy for what the Handler can put out.
Thanks Ernie. Wow! I just returned from the store and was reopening
the newsgroup and your answer popped up before my eyes. And I'm
honored to get the first reply from you.
Yes, I saw that about the smaller wire in a couple of threads I dug up
in my search. I've made a mental note to switch back to .024 when I
finish off this spool.
Many of the things you've posted over time about your experiences with
the Handler 120s have helped me learn to use mine better and to avoid
any buyer's remorse over investing in a small machine to start out.
Way back, I've posted about some of the impossible jobs I've done with
mine just by setting up the work pieces properly and using a little
preheat sometimes.
For every one out there: One additional question on technique: When I
weld the stanchions back onto the flat surface of the frame, should I
aim the wire more towards the flat surface I'm attaching to, or at a 45
degree angle where I am aiming at the flat surface and the edge of the
stanchion equally? I'm thinking that I need to aim a little more into
the flat surface to offset the difference in penetration between it and
the edge I'm welding to it.
Also, should I run the bead straight, or whip in small circles? I just
played with welding a 1/8 flat strip to some 1/4 flat stock. Watching
the puddle and experimenting, it seemed to work best with me whipping
in very small circles.
Aim the heat towards the heavier materiel.
Wash the weld over to the thinner materiel.
110 volt MIGs really need to have a wider bead so weave, circle or do
arcs.
Anything to add surface area to the weld.
You can't really get much penetration on one of these machines so you
need to join more surface area.
Thanks Ernie! Since you probably have more experience with the Handler
120 than even the folks at Hobart, please allow me to pick your brain
with one more question:
The owner's manual lists recommended settings for 3/16 steel and .030
wire as Voltage 4 and Wire Speed 4-5. Stickout 1/2 inch. I know these
are just starting points, and sometimes I end up fine tuning one or the
other - usually by sound of the arc if everything else looks right
visually.
starting point to weld the edges of 3/16 angle along both sides (edge
and outside of angle) to the flat side of 3/16 angle as I'm planning
to do?
Thanks.
I only tend to use 2 settings on the Handler 120's.
For steel thinner than 1/8" power at 3, wire at 6.
For everything heavier than 1/8" power at 4, wire at 7-8.
These are for 0.024" wire, C25 gas.
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