Hi. I hope someone here can help me. My father gave me an old submersible pump. A Gorman Rupp subpump. It's probably over 50 years old and it doesn't work anymore. I want to test and repair it if possible.
It's a pump with no dry kill switch attached right next to the pump like we are seeing on the newer model ( no flowtation on/off swicht. It also a pump with a big disconnect box, in witch there are old electronic/electric parts: there is a electrical breaker , a relay , and a capacitor.
This pump runs on 115vlt, 1 ph. It's a 2 hp pump and 28 amp
I don't have much knowledge in electricity or electronic , but I would really like to see if this pump can work again. I know if was working fine when I was a kid. My father stored the pump and the switch box in an underground pit for many years and now it's all corroded and it's not working
Ok here is a picture of the pump:
Now below is the picture of the switch box : Now in this switch box, the electricity comes in from the left side of the box , it goes into a relay and a capacitor , and comes out to the pump from the right side of the box. One thing that may trick you is regarding the electricity coming in, I know that usually one use the black and white wire for this but What they did here is used the black as live and the red as neutral. The white wire seen bended down is actually spare and not connected in any way.
Also I'm no electrician and I'm not used to see a double breaker connected to a neutral.. ( remember what you are seeing is 115 vlt, not 220 vlt.) why is that?
And here is the picture of the electrical diagram: this I'm sure will explain all the mistary of this pump, but unfortunately I can't understand or read this..
now for the questions..
How can I test the pump to know if it's fixable? I will tell you what I checked already: I check the breakers with my tester and they do not work anymore. So what I did was bypassing the breaker to see if the rest of the electronics work, and they don't. ( it's either the relay or the capacitor , or both that don't work imo.)
So what I did after this is connecting the 115vlt right on the pump's black and white wire ( I believe the red wire has to do with the capacitor, that's why I didn't check??? ) my 115 vlt was coming from a 15 amp braker . I saw a big spark when the live wire touched the black pump's wire , so I terminated the test right away as I thought It would trigger my home breaker ( remember my pump pulls 28 amps..)
Would it make sense to hooked the pump into my oven plug ( 40amps). By hooking I mean bypassing all the electronics and connecting to the white and black wire of the pump itseft? Or no sense because if the relay and capacitor are not working, he pump won't start anyway?
In order to buy new parts for the switch box, can someone with a brain give me some specs for a relay, a capacitor, and the discharge resistor ( connected to the capacitor, see diagram )
Also do one know if this pump is equipped with a kill switch if it ever runs dry? Can you guess it has or not form the diagram?
Thanks for our time
Thanks for you help
you can reach me at snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com
Stef.