A Forging Hammer Built Around an Old Engine Block

Nov 05, 2026 Last reply: 1 day ago 3 Replies
Jump to replies (3)

The detail that jumped out at me first is the anvil mounting: the block is anchored straight through the head bolt holes of the engine with long deck bolts. Building a forging machine around a green cast-iron inline six-cylinder Chevrolet block, and using its own fastening points to hold the anvil, is exactly the kind of junkyard thinking this challenge rewards. The base rests on that engine block, and a bright red steel frame carries a heavy red anvil block above it, fitted with a lower die.



The drive side is just as inventive. An electric motor on the frame turns the flywheel through a V-belt, and a clutch worked by a foot pedal on an idler pulley regulates the motor, with a curved metal belt shoe handling belt slack. The piston assembly that drives the overhead arm was welded up from cut-down piston sections, with pins turned 90 degrees, and connects through a large threaded coupling nut.



Other touches worth noting: a thick wooden beam runs across the machine as the walking arm, sprung on trailer leaf springs arranged as a parallelogram linkage, and the right end carries a red painted hammer head. One spring pack even carries a label reading 'TBT-109'. And it does real work, too: a piece of heated steel stock gets forged and drawn out under the hammer.



The obvious trade-off is noise. It is extremely loud, and the vibrations reach through the whole house, while the current setup has no soundproofing and sits in a rented garage. That seems like the sort of thing worth sorting before any long forging sessions.



Project by nakedanvil. Watch it on their YouTube channel:

formatting link


Welding the piston sections together with the pins turned 90 degrees looks like the cleverest choice to me. It turns scrap pistons into a working linkage without machining new parts, and the large threaded coupling nut joining it reads as a tidy connection. Suspending the wooden arm on a parallelogram of trailer leaf springs also seems like a smart way to keep that long beam sprung.

How does the foot pedal actually work with the idler pulley and that curved belt shoe? Does pressing the pedal move the idler to take up slack, or does the shoe guide the belt in some other way? I am curious how much speed control you get once the flywheel is spinning.

Given that the vibrations reach the whole house, I would suggest putting the hammer on some kind of isolated pad or dedicated foundation before the next long session. Since the space is a rented garage, decoupling the base from the floor seems like the quickest way to quiet things down without changing the machine itself.

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required