Q: Cutting by code -- large difference in adjacent cuts?

Aug 03, 2004 Last reply: 21 years ago 13 Replies

I have various sets of depth/spacer keys, but finding it challenging to cut keys when the adjacent cut depths differ by a significant amount (but < MAC). For example, if I'm cutting a Weiser 35227, all is good until I try cutting the 7, which tends to bugger up the 2. With care, I can sometimes put a low-numbered key (or a plain blank) in such that I can follow the rise of the blade's tip.



I'm using up lots of blanks for practice!



As a side-question, do you generally (for most brands) charge the same for re-coding a deadbolt as you do for a lock-in-knob? I find most deadbolts very easy to re-pin, while a knob can take 3x the effort due to the disassembly required to get at the cylinder.



Thanks...



Now, if he's got a wide angle cutter, and it's wiping out the adjacent cut.... what's that going to change?

there is a MACS.. maximun adjacent cut difference.. I do not do ENOUGH Weiser to remember it off hand, but another thing, this ALSO ASSUMES factory depths.. if you are cutting the depth to depth DEEPER than factory, this will lead you to trouble real quick

your cutter MUST BE the correct ANGLE AND max adjacent cut, WIDTH.. too

perhaps you got to 'flat' a cutter??? some vague menmory sais there is 2 different depths of cuts, DEPENDING.. I might be wrong.. but example, lets say you got 9 depths possible with a .015 per cut diff..

or you got 6 max possible, using .025 diff.. the DEEPEST CUT in either case CANNOT exceed the factory.. --Shiva--

OK, what type of machine and type of cutting wheel are you using. It sounds like your cutting wheel is too wide, I had sever wheels depending on the manufacturers requirements. Also, may be a punch machine may be better for you.

It's interesting how geographical lock brands seem to be. Around here, it seems Weiser dominates the residential locks (probably ~60%, and higher in newer communities).

The MACS for Weiser is 6 and the possible depths are 0-9 (I can't remember off to top of my head, but I think they're .015 increments). My problem is probably the width/angle, since a 1-6, 2-7, 3-8, 4-9 adjacent cut is what's troubling me. I believe an adjacement cut of 4 difference is also a bit of a challenge, and I've found that a difference of 3 is no problem at all.

The max cut for Weiser is a 9, which I think is about 0.330 (off the top of my head... could be off here), but I've never in practice encountered one since this starts weakening the blade of the key too much. Practically, 7 seems to be as deep as they usually go in a box of random cut keys.

then I would assume a .015 diff in depths.. if one was trying to cut a .020 or .025 diff, then they are exceeding the 6 cut diff. QUICKLY

--Shiva--

The problem here is the design of your space and depth keys. If you had them cut odd cuts only and even cuts only for depths 3-9. Until you get these or a code machine, try cutting only to depth on the problem cuts and finish the key by hand with a file.

Same price for both knobs and deadbolts.

When is the MACS not the MACS :)

Ben --

MACS is only accurate when you are using the same angle cutter as the one used to calculate the MACS.

Basically, when you cut one depth if it's slope interferes with depth of the adjacent cut, then it is out of MACS. Usually when MACS are listed then a cutter # or at least cutter angle is given as well. Depending on your key machine and the actual cutter shape you may be violating the MACS without violating the factory MACS number.

I have even gone so far as to not cut the deeper cut all the way. I would cut the key you mentioned as 35226 or even 35225 and hand file the last cut to the correct depth, and I could then better control the slope as necessary. Of course it is better to use the correct cutter.

If you are using depth and space keys, you may want to focus your guide to cut directly down into the center of the depth, rather than a tracing motion.

What kind of machine are you using to cut these, and which cutter?

--A

If the only cutter you've got is a wide one, sometimes the best you can do is to partially hand-cut the key...

Thanks to everyone who has replied... you've provided some useful insight indeed!

I'm using a standard key duplicator, and in fact have both a Curtis and an Ilco (not sure about model numbers, etc.). It's obviously not going to give me the results of a computerized code cutter, but for my purposes and infrequency of use, it is definitely sufficient! Good tips about using the depth/space keys primarily for the depth of the cut, and forming the angle of the transition to adjacent cuts by hand/file. I'll try that!

By the way, can cutters be sharpened, and is it worthwhile to do? On one of my machines, keys cut from it have a lot of burrs, while the other machine produces nice, clean cuts.

Thanks again... Ben

yes.. GIL RAY tool.. price-depends.. some are cost effective and IMO some arent..

--Shiva--

to do? On one of

the other machine

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g'luck

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