How Thin Can It Go?

I'm working on an electronics project that I want to house in an aluminum tube bored out of round 1" aluminum bar. Can anyone
tell me what's the thinnest wall thickness I can use before the tube becomes easy to bend and damage?
Thanks. Ron
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Ron-
It you haven't post this question on sci.engr.mech
The answer depends on the alloy & the heat treatment as well as the wall thickness.
I would suggest that you use an extruded tube of 6061-T6 or 6063-T6 rather than machining from a solid rod.
You could easily go down to ~.030 wall (or thinner) depending on the length of the tube & the operating environment.
www.mcmaster.com
1" OD x .035 wall x 3' $9ea
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

anyone
the wall

6063-T6 rather than

the length of

Thanks for the skinny on this, but I have to start with a solid rod as one end of this piece is pipe threaded to fit into another cylinder and at the other end there's a semi-hollow cone-- the whole thing being no longer than three inches in length and with an OD of 0.500 inches.
Ron
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Ron-
There are other ways to make the connection to the threaded piece; adhesive on a slip fit, a press fit or a shrink fit. Machining to a thin wall is possible but not first choice of a production system.
If you want something that works & can be made in production you need an experienced designer.
If you're just prototyping continue to iterate.
Bob
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

on
rod
cone--
with
adhesive on

is possible

need an

Bob, it's just a silly project, a sophisticated toy. Ten years ago I first saw the BBC show Doctor Who and fell in love with it. It was campy and cheap, but it had charm. I was particularly fascinated by the good Doctor's sonic screwdriver and I set out to build one. It took two years me two years working out the acoustics end, but when it was done it could produce 143 dB of sound that could turn screws from a few inches or keys in a door from about a foot away (the door has a bigger surface area)..
It was a brilliant piece of engineering that nobody else has done before or since. But things happened and I lost it; lost the screwdriver and all of the files on it were either corrupted or lost as well. Ten years later the electronics have improved, piezo-ceramic materials have improved, and I decided to reconstruct the screwdriver from memory and while I'm at, make a few improvements.
There have been enough companies and people who have made mock-up versions of the screwdriver, lathed out of a single piece of aluminum; but since this version houses batteries and electronics, there are four main pieces that screw together via pipe threads. The pipe threads add a degree of ruggedness plus the finished project looked better, being constructed out of different sections rather than one long cut piece. Most of it was schedule 40 aluminum pipe or 1" aluminum rod, but there were also sections made out of copper tubing and brass.
It was a neat little toy. If it was ever marketed it would be sold by The Sharper Image people for an incredibly high amount. And it will probably cost me an arm and a leg to build it again given the cost of machine works these days,
Ron
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bob;
A picture of one design for the screwdriver is at:
http://www.paratime.ca/v_and_v/sonicsc.html
I only made a few slight modifications to the basic design.
--rh

as
piece;
wall
I
by
when
in
area)..
lost
was
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Ron Hubbard wrote:

Another thought - does it _have_ to be aluminum?
you could possibly get good results with steel / stainless steel.
If you go this route, you could do tons of prototypes with 1" bolts for not much money.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Rich Jones wrote:

My bad. Make that 1/2" bolts, and even less money.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Ron Hubbard wrote:

I carry reading glasses in my pocket in an aluminum tube case. The case is about 0.9 inches in diameter and the thin wall is on the order of 0.02 inches thick (0.5 mm by cheap measuring device).
There are a few dents in the tube, so I would suggest you take 1 mm (0.040 inches) as a rough guide.
Jim
--
...............................


Keepsake gift for young girls.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks for the tip, Jim.

anyone
case
of
mm
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
You said something about threads. The tube wall needs to be 3X the depth of the thread root as a minimum (and that is still not sound engineering practice). Cute idea though. Dr. K

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Well, in this case the threads are external. But I will keep your information in mind when it comes to joining the other pieces together.
Ron

anyone
The case

order of

mm
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.