1/16" drill bit won't fit a 1/2" chuck

I've been culling my collection of crap.
Decided to reduce the number of incompatible
cordless tools and dead batteries.
I bought one of the Ryobi 1/2" lithium drill kits.
I don't need 1/2", but that's what was on sale.
I never drill big holes, but I often drill small ones.
It was an online deal, so I couldn't inspect it beforehand.
I shot myself in the foot.
The 1/2" chuck won't close on a 1/16" bit.
Only reasonably priced solution I've found is
a bit with a 1/4" hex shank. There are a bunch
of issues with that.
Only thing I can think of is to cut a slit in
some 1/16" ID brass tubing. That oughta be good
enough. I can always use a different 3/8" drill if
So, how can I cut a NARROW slit in a section of 1/16" ID
brass tubing?
I have a .025" Dremel cutoff wheel, but by the time
I get done by hand, I expect there won't be much brass left.
I have some
1/8" shank NC drill bits, but they're extremely fragile.
I'd break 'em in an instant with a hand drill.
I have a Dremel chuck with a 1/8" shank, but by the time
I stack all that up, the tip of the drill bit is WAY out there.
Other options that don't involve buying a new drill
or a new chuck or a $25 drill bit?
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That's only the tip of the iceberg. Half-inch drills often don't rotate fast enough for those small bits anyway. That 1/16" bit won't work well (on stainless, for instance) if it doesn't go at least 2000 rpm. For a half-inch drill, 300 rpm is good. So, what's the speed range of the lithium drill kit? 1600 rpm max?
Reply to
I have two Ryobi 1/2" drills, both will close on 1/16. I love the combination of compact drill and 1/2" chuck.
I can't remember exactly why, but I have a hand drill collet that I've cut off the end of the plastic handle, exposing enough metal to fit into a chuck. Maybe you could do something similar with a precision drill holder. Those frequently come with a selection of tiny bits for about $5.
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Month of May
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Reply to
Jim Wilkins
Well, You could use an X-acto saw, although it would wear the blade (their blades are really soft). You could reshape an old X-acto blade into a skiving tool, Put an old drill shank in the tubing and hold it in a vise for the procedure. To fashion a skiving tool (my own word for it) you use a bench stone and make the X-acto blade like a tiny chisel blade. It only takes about 30 seconds to reshape the end of a worn-out blade. Then, you run the blade down the brass, using the vise jaw as a guide. It will take 1-2 minutes to cut through to the drill shank, and you should get a very narrow slit. You swipe the blade "backwards" with the straight edge of the blade at right angles to the brass. it will bring up little curls as it cuts through.
Wish I could show this being done, it is easier to show than describe.
Reply to
Jon Elson
Assuming you have a metal lathe (this is r.c.m.) you could drill a 1/4" bolt with a solid shank lengthwise for the drill shank and then drill and tap crosswise through the hex head for a setscrew. -jsw
Reply to
Jim Wilkins
Sounds like you need to buy a pin chuck, 3rd item down on this page
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Reply to
David Billington
Wrap copper or steel wire around the shank. I do it all the time.
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Worked perfectly. thanks, mike
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Get a 1/4" chuck, mount it on an arbour, and chuck it in the half inch drill. It will make it clumsy, but a half inch drill is WAY too clumsey, and way too slow, for a 1/16" bit anyway.
I think I smell a troll- - -
Reply to
Hah, that was quick! I modify a lot of X-acto blades to carve circuit board material, odd plastic things, etc. Kind of my go-too tool for special things. Glad it worked for you!
Reply to
Jon Elson
I second that, but would use 3/8 to 1/2" stock, not 1/4".
Reply to
Larry Jaques

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