$13 drill sharpener from Grizz: Da Real Deal

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A must to have. I keep hearing of old timers that do that by hand. Stopping short of you learning that skill (no ez feat), the next alternative is to spend $13 on this jig. Of course, there's always Drill Doctor @ $150 and/or stories of Ebay kills for $20 including shipping.

Works 100%. Below is how to use the thing. It is rather lengthy in description, but in reality it only takes a minute. I feel not whole lotta folx had patience to figure out how to use the thing and into the far corner of farthest shelf it went, never to be tried again, in too many an HSM shop.

Disclaimer: do at your own risk. Wear eye protection. When using a bench grinder after a long break, turn it on while standing to a side.

Lemme try describing how to use it properly:

- set the proper angle (wingnut)

- tighten the 2 PS on the bottom to where the whole thing rotates/pivots w/o wobble and too much effort.

- adjust the flute index (slotted strip of steel in front, 2 PS) to stick out enough to engage the flutes of the particular drill bit

- mount the thing as shown in the picture, close to a vertical grinding surface (bench or disk grinder, I used mine even with belt grinders)

- setup the adjustable stop travel to be in ~1/8 range (more if the drill bit is really in need of serious grinding). The stop travels as you turn the knurled wheel with yer thumb. There's also adustable travel stop to control amt of movement

- drop the bit in. Do not tighten the holding screw just yet. Make sure one of drill's flutes is engaged against the index

- Here's the most critical part: with the adjustable stop moved all the way forward, slide the whole stop assy on the square shaft to where the drill bit's "cheeks" are oriented vertically. Lock the stop assy in that position . Make sure, as you do that, to have flute against the index

This way the lower cheek will be ground first and when you turn the bit

180, it will be the 2nd cheek.

- move the adjustable stop back via the thumbwheel. You will advance that stop forward, in small increments, during the grinding process

- lock the drill via the holding screw (one on the very top) - still have that flute engaged against the index

- now mount the assy next to the wheel where the drill bit barely touches the grinding surface I use C-clamp for that

- turn the grinder on. Grind the bit: pivot the jig back and forth a few times, pivot it outta way, unlock the holding screw atop, advance the drill forward via the thumbwheel, making sure flute's engaged with the index, lock the screw atop, pivot some more. On last advance, you prolly want to pivot till "spark out"

- move the adjustable stop all the way back. Flip the drill bit where the "other cheek" is now on the bottom. Repeat the process.

Done

As safety, you might want to turn the grinder off in between advances.

Reply to
rashid111
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I've seen these at Menards also - about the same price from what I remember. Been meaning to pick one up.

Reply to
marc.britten

At ~$13 + S&H + tax, that is a pretty good deal. Is there anybody out there that knows how to use one of these, can shoot a short video of it in action, and post the result on YouTube?

-Wayne

P.S. I have the old "how to hand sharpen a drill" posted by teenut, but have never been able to get the hang of it.

Reply to
Wayne C. Gramlich

I don't think that's a particular deal. I recall seeing the same sharpeners advertised for under $10 canadian.

The one that I have set up for use was in a shop run by a guy that was firmly of the opinion that to touch anything to the side of the stone was to risk the wrath of the gods, and thus, himself!

Note also that the picture shows this set up to grind the drill on the side of the stone.

The results of that one, were predictably poor, and it was relegated to shelf, to gather dust.

Set it so when the assembly is rotated about the pin at the bottom, it does not go past perpendicular to the face of the wheel, preferably never closer to perpendicular than the releif angle of the lip.

Kinda tough to explain, but if you sit down with one of these sharpeners, a decent 1/2" drill, and a grinder (not running) you can work it out. After that it's a matter of replacing a couple of the shitty stamped parts with parts that will give you a semblence of repeatability when you switch from one lip to the other. The instructions that come with them are pretty good, if you already know how they work! :-)

Cheers Trevor Jones

Reply to
Trevor Jones

the low end drill doctor is now well under $35, you may wish to consider that instead -

Reply to
William Noble

How does that differ from an old General drill sharpening jig?

Wes S

Reply to
clutch

Here's an example of a setup for the sharpening accessory

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This setup shows how the lower, angled pivot pin of the fixture allows the user to sweep an arc with the drill point. That's how the cutting edge face relief is established with this particular sharpening accessory.

Having the adjustable base under the sharpening fixture will prove worthwhile and very convenient, as it's neccessary to move the fixture base frequently.

WB metalwork>

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Reply to
Wild Bill

It doesn't as far as I can tell (other than the nameplate). I have the General model. I've used it (on the side of the grinding wheel). But the relief angle doesn't taper off. Rather, it looks more like a crescent moon.

I went back to hand grinding.

Gary

Reply to
grice

I dunno, Teenut's bionic method works for me, and does not take long to learn. I sharpened about 70 drill bits from 3mm to 25mm in less than 30 minutes - try doing that on a jig and see how long it takes. I find it easier to sharpen batches than one-offs. Alan, in Gosnells, Western Oz. VK6 YAB VKS 737 - W 6174

Reply to
alan200

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