3 jaw chuck for rotary table

I call it a home made mounting. It may be made but I've not seen it. I just made a plate a bit larger than the chuck. Four holes around the perimeter to mount to the table.

Karl

Got a lathe too ? Buy a chunk of metal and make a mount plate for an off-the-shelf chuck . Square piece just a bit bigger than the chuck diameter , turn it to fit the chuck back , slot the corners . Mild steel seems to be a pretty decent choice , price-wise . Haven't checked cast iron , but aluminum and brass/bronze are pricey in Memphis Tn .

I made a mounting plate for a small 3 jaw out of 1/2" aluminum plate. I have not seen a commercial one anywhere.

Good Luck, BobH

I made one as well( out of mild steel round stock). I stepped the mounting plate to locate the chuck and used cap screws and t-nuts to hold it in place. Works very well.

A 1" thick by 6" diameter plate of cast from McMaster was something like $45 a few years ago -- I made that adapter plate from mild steel from the scrap yard.

Stu: I don't know how common it is, but the chucks on my Smithy are designed to mount to a plate with a turned shoulder in it -- if you're careful you can nicely center the chuck. In turn, most rotary tables I've seen have a hole in the center, which, if it isn't too bunged up, you could make a shoulder for on your adapter to put your chuck in the center of the whole business.

A lathe 3 jaw chuck on a faceplate. Mount the faceplate to another. And have the non-lathe one T-mount and larger. Or just buy a Bison and a backplate - and go from there.

Martin

Mart> I'm looking for a 3 jaw chuck that would mount using the T slots on my

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Like others have mentioned, I made my own. A round disc slightly larger than the chuck to allow room for cap screws around the chuck, with 3 holes in my case as the 10" rotary table has 6 slots. The cap screws go into T slot nuts which I had already made for the table. The plate is shouldered like you would fit a chuck backplate, A nice feature is I also fitted an accurate centering plug in the middle of the disc so I can just fit the chuck on the rotary table and it is centered, the plug is removable so I can fit the chuck and backplate straight onto the mill table if required.

Look for a "Front Mount Chuck" with through holes.

I have one for sale on ebay right now.

Search for "bison rotary table chuck 6".

Mine is new.

Basically you need chuck with through holes for Socket Head Hex Screws drilled.

i

Looked at your 3 jaw chuck. Question: My rotary table has 4 slots @ 90° for T nuts. (Now that I know how to do °, I use it a lot for practice)** Your 3 jaw has 3 holes @ 120 °.** It would seem that another plate would be required to mount that chuck on my rotary table. Is that true? Am I missing something? I'm an owner of machine tools, for sure not qualified to use the word machinist associated with my skills. But dang the tools are handy.

** Its not 3 o'clock, I write: the big hand is @ 0° and the little hand is @ 90° (more ° alt 0176 practice)

stu

Stu, that's a good question and I am out of my "depth" to answer it. I would hate to give you a wrong answer. But what I know is that with front mounts, you can get away with thinner mounting plates.

i

My second-hand rotary table has tapped holes all over it from previous fixtures. None of them weaken the tee slots and they don't interfere with using it. Why not screw the chuck directly to the table? If there's room, you could use undersized mounting screws and make blocks that screw down in the tee slots with lateral screws to center the chuck better.

If the three front screws go through a ring of solid metal in the chuck, maybe you could drill a 4-hole pattern in it as well.