air saw for wood?

If I have a lot, like after a big storm, I use a pruning blade on my Sawzall. It works great and, for this work, I often one-hand it.

But so does my old bowsaw with a good Sandvik blade (they're hard and hard to sharpen but they really last). It's almost as fast as my Sawzall.

Agreed, a sharp bow saw cuts almost as fast and lets the hand holding it help position the wood. However it wears my arm out when a whole fallen oak tree top or two has to be cut up.

I bought 5 spare blades at HD a few years ago. When I checked them at home in better light -all- needed jointing and resharpening. Do you think anyone around here sells cant saw files?

-jsw

I don't know of any but I'd call Pferd. The have an 800 number (800)

I use slim-taper Nicholsen triangular files. So, the rakers require two srokes, and if you're sharpening a Sandvik saw, make sure you keep pressure on it as you cut. I use a Nicholsen mill fie to joint them, although I rarely do that. I just lay a straightedge over the teeth and put on my binocular magnifiers to see what the tooth heights are. I don't joint the sides of the slicers; I just rely on my saw-set. That is, for a bucksaw. I joint all other saw blades.

Otherwise, they work just fine. On my fine-tooth Sandvik crosscut saw, I do use a triangular slip, aluminum oxide, and I rarely have to use a file.

Or I rarely did, when I did a lot of handsawing. Mostly those old saws are shop decorations now. d8-)

I use a machete , a bow saw , and either a electric mitre saw or a kludge of a 10 inch circular saw blade on a arbor driven by an electric motoc. I do not recommend that. It has no guards and I continuously say this is dangerous when I use it.

But do recommend the machete but it has to be really sharp. Any thing up to about 25 mm is one swipe and up to about 40 mm is just two swipes.

Dan

I've almost bought one of those 100 times since I first saw it, but I've never justified the need. BUT, I'm not sure it would have the stroke (only 3/8") or the torque to handle a coarse wood blade. They're made for exhaust pipes and fenders/sheet stock with very fine blades.

I've used these 3 solutions effectively:

This saw runs on my HF mod sine inverter. (hmm, no Remington at HF today, but that's where I bought mine)

This one is great for one-offs, but would get you tired after 3+.

I keep a bow saw in my truck and it works quite well.

No, but Amazon is 2 days/free shipping away with my Prime membership.

There used to be a Japan Woodworker store in the Bay Area. RIP

The problem is that after a couple of hours of chopping I tire, my aim degrades and and I risk a serious accident. As I age I look for ways to avoid that.

-jsw

Getting old is not for the weak DAMHIKT