Alternatives to LPS-2

LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal things, it will get to all the pieces in time.
The only minus of it is that it is expensive.
Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does not dry out.
Thanks
i

Ignoramus11220 wrote:
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Check Kano Labs, makers of Kroil and lots of other good stuff, I'm sure they have something suitable.

    --Lots cheaper if you buy it by the gallon, then use a pump spray bottle to apply it..

Iggy, I haven't found any good substitute to LPS2. It is a lot less expensive than the rust. I like the idea of gallon containers though. Steve
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Aerokroil is supposed to be good. Not sure it's any cheaper, though.
I'm told that LPS-1 "non oily" is good lube for locks.

On Mon, 1 Mar 2010 20:54:15 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
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ATF

And, what does that mean?

On Mon, 01 Mar 2010 10:38:09 -0600, Ignoramus11220
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Used motor oil meets your criteria.

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I've never used LPS-2, so I can't make a direct comparison, but take a look at Black Bear Par-AL-Ketone sold by Aircraft Spruce. It is intended as a rust preventative and can be diluted with mineral spirits, or denatured alcohol if you want it to dry out faster. In discussions on the net many years ago, I recall it was said that it was the same or similar to what was used in the Rusty Jones rust proofing for cars. It's off lable use is as a bullet lubricant ala Lee Liquid Alox.
RWL

On Mar 1, 9:38 am, Ignoramus11220 <ignoramus11...@NOSPAM. 11220.invalid> wrote:
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Look at what CRC offers. I've not used anything but their penetrant, 556, 356, 348 or one of them thread sizes. It worked OK. NAPA was one source and I've seen it on real hardware store shelves. I like the LPS line myself, but they seem to be really after the industrial market, case lots, not the home shop onesies. I use more LPS 1 and 3 than 2.
Stan

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Look at what CRC offers. I've not used anything but their penetrant, 556, 356, 348 or one of them thread sizes. It worked OK. NAPA was one source and I've seen it on real hardware store shelves. I like the LPS line myself, but they seem to be really after the industrial market, case lots, not the home shop onesies. I use more LPS 1 and 3 than 2.
Stan
i keep having cans of any brand (LPS, CRC, etc.) of the waxy anti-rust stuff leak out all the propellant. it sucks (because it's expensive). half full cans of LPS 3 (and others) with no propellant left. one time i called LPS and told them about it and they said they were going to send me replacements and i waited a couple weeks and called them back and then they said they weren't. i bought a bunch of the stuff from eastwood. they've got it in metal cans, non-aerosol, like quart size. i put it in one of the plastic containers (that come with the schutz gun) and the solvent evaporated THROUGH the plastic container. now i have a SOLID container of wax anti-rust stuff. gonna have to figure out a way to re-liquefy it. i don't know how eastwood's prices compare to (what someone else suggested, gallon non-aerosol).
http://www.eastwood.com / http://www.eastwood.com/ew-heavy-duty-anti-rust-32oz.html http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions/prevention.html
how do their prices compare?
b.w.

William Wixon wrote:
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You can re-pressurize aerosol cans with propane. I made an adapter for recharging paint rattle cans: http://home.comcast.net/~bobengelhardt/RattleCanAdapter2.jpg
It screws into the valve of a propane torch. I.e., in place of the tube. Aerosol cans have different style valves & each style requires its own adapter.
Bob

It is nothing original or definitive, I just wanted to know how things behaved in my hands. Also I did not consider prices but these are easy to find out.
In a nutshell: Nothing beat LPS3.
I was puzzled about the behaviour of WD40.

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I'm not puzzled about WD40. Despite what folks say, it's good for one thing, displacing water, that's what it was designed for. The stuff is basically a light petroleum fraction with other crap dissolved that will evaporate leaving the other crap coating the surface and it's NOT a lubricant or rust-preventative. So if you try using it on a squeaky hinge, the squeak comes back, sometimes worse. Performance on rusty stuff is no better than using kerosene. LPS 1 is a far better penetrant and the coating it leaves IS a lubricant. I use it on padlock innards, usually good for several years in fully exposed locks. Keeps the disc locks from bending or busting keys.
There's one thing better than LPS 3, but it's not made anymore. LPS 100 was a white grease that was supposedly good for a whole year under sea water. Used to use it on antenna rotator bearings, usually lasted longer than the attached antennas.
Stan

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<snip>
They should fly banners behind airplanes announcing that fact. It would save a lot of mistreated machinery.
I'd like to know what happened to WD-39...

I found another penetrating lubricant called PB-50 (by the same company that makes PB Blaster). It is massively cheaper than LPS-2 and is sold for $2.50 per can at Home Depot. The can is slightly smaller than LPS-2, but the price difference more than makes up for it.
However, this PB-50 does not disperse widely, it shoots a jet of it.
So, there is no good alternative to LPS-2.
I agree with the opinion expressed here, that buying LPS-2 by the gallon, and using spray bottles, is the best bet if I need to use a lot of nondrying, easily sprayable, penetrating rust preventative. This is what I will do. I have a large quantity of steel, tool steel etc. I will sell some, but I will keep a lot and I want that steel to stay clean and not rust.
i

On Mar 7, 3:45 am, Ignoramus26053 <ignoramus26...@NOSPAM. 26053.invalid> wrote:
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Have you tried switching nozzles on the PB50 can?
I have used liquid floor polish to keep stuff from rusting. It is inexpensive if you get it at moving sales.
Dan

On Sat, 06 Mar 2010 21:45:48 -0600, the infamous Ignoramus26053
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The advertising boys in Tucker have been working late:
The can label says "LPS-2 Heavy-duty Lubricant"
The msds says: "Section 1 – Identification Product Name: LPS 2®
Part Number: 00222, 02128, 00205, 00255, C00222, C02128, C00205, C00255
Chemical Name: Petroleum Distillates
Product Use: An industrial lubricant designed to displace moisture from mechanical and electrical equipment, provide light-duty lubrication and short-term rust prevention. (What duty?)
Manufacturer Information: LPS Laboratories, 4647 Hugh Howell Rd., Tucker, GA, USA 30084"
I wonder which it is...
-- The blind are not good trailblazers.
-- federal judge Frank Easterbrook

Ignoramus26053 wrote:
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...
Geez - this thread has been about LPS-*2*, but I've been thinking LPS-*3* (although LPS-3 has snuck in).
Anyhow, LPS-2 & PB-50 are primarily lubricants, that rust protect too, according to their manufacturers.
LPS-3 is primarily a rust preventer. Blaster has a competitive product (I think) called Corrosion Stop http://www.pbblaster.com/Corrosion_Stop.html Has anybody used this? Like PB-50, it is much cheaper than the LPS version.
Bob

Ed Huntress wrote:
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Went to the same place as Preparation G