LPS-2 is a great rust preventative, because it is light oil, sprays
nicely, and does not dry or harden over time. It also creeps and
penetrates well, so if, say, I spray it on top of a pile of metal
things, it will get to all the pieces in time.
The only minus of it is that it is expensive.
Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative that can be sprayed and does
not dry out.
Thanks
i
I've never used LPS-2, so I can't make a direct comparison,
but take a look at Black Bear Par-AL-Ketone sold by
Aircraft Spruce. It is intended as a rust preventative and can be
diluted with mineral spirits, or denatured alcohol if you want it to
dry out faster. In discussions on the net many years ago, I recall
it was said that it was the same or similar to what was used in the
Rusty Jones rust proofing for cars. It's off lable use is as a bullet
lubricant ala Lee Liquid Alox.
RWL
Look at what CRC offers. I've not used anything but their penetrant,
556, 356, 348 or one of them thread sizes. It worked OK. NAPA was
one source and I've seen it on real hardware store shelves. I like
the LPS line myself, but they seem to be really after the industrial
market, case lots, not the home shop onesies. I use more LPS 1 and 3
than 2.
Stan
You can re-pressurize aerosol cans with propane. I made an adapter for
recharging paint rattle cans:
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It screws into the valve of a propane torch. I.e., in place of the
tube. Aerosol cans have different style valves & each style requires
its own adapter.
Bob
Look at what CRC offers. I've not used anything but their penetrant,
556, 356, 348 or one of them thread sizes. It worked OK. NAPA was
one source and I've seen it on real hardware store shelves. I like
the LPS line myself, but they seem to be really after the industrial
market, case lots, not the home shop onesies. I use more LPS 1 and 3
than 2.
Stan
i keep having cans of any brand (LPS, CRC, etc.) of the waxy anti-rust stuff
leak out all the propellant. it sucks (because it's expensive). half full
cans of LPS 3 (and others) with no propellant left. one time i called LPS
and told them about it and they said they were going to send me replacements
and i waited a couple weeks and called them back and then they said they
weren't. i bought a bunch of the stuff from eastwood. they've got it in
metal cans, non-aerosol, like quart size. i put it in one of the plastic
containers (that come with the schutz gun) and the solvent evaporated
THROUGH the plastic container. now i have a SOLID container of wax
anti-rust stuff. gonna have to figure out a way to re-liquefy it. i don't
know how eastwood's prices compare to (what someone else suggested, gallon
non-aerosol).
It is nothing original or definitive, I just wanted to know how things
behaved in my hands. Also I did not consider prices but these are easy to
find out.
In a nutshell: Nothing beat LPS3.
I was puzzled about the behaviour of WD40.
I'm not puzzled about WD40. Despite what folks say, it's good for one
thing, displacing water, that's what it was designed for. The stuff
is basically a light petroleum fraction with other crap dissolved that
will evaporate leaving the other crap coating the surface and it's NOT
a lubricant or rust-preventative. So if you try using it on a squeaky
hinge, the squeak comes back, sometimes worse. Performance on rusty
stuff is no better than using kerosene. LPS 1 is a far better
penetrant and the coating it leaves IS a lubricant. I use it on
padlock innards, usually good for several years in fully exposed
locks. Keeps the disc locks from bending or busting keys.
There's one thing better than LPS 3, but it's not made anymore. LPS
100 was a white grease that was supposedly good for a whole year under
sea water. Used to use it on antenna rotator bearings, usually lasted
longer than the attached antennas.
Stan
This can of it is black, and very thick, the marks from scooping some
out maybe 20 years ago haven't slumped.
It's hard to apply unless thinned and doesn't soak through a rust film
so I don't use it much, except on bolt threads under the truck. Plus I
can't replace it.
It might be a slightly better lubricating grease than LPS-3, which
dries to a wax, but neither is good. Marine lower unit or trailer
wheel bearing grease let my home made roller wheel bearings spin
easier and seem to be enough protection.
IIRC it made the antenna rotator sluggish in very cold weather. I used
marine grease the second time. The antenna has lasted only because I
make new parts. I'm receiving HDTV on a dipole made of two 6" hex
standoffs jammed into plastic hose.
jsw
I found another penetrating lubricant called PB-50 (by the same
company that makes PB Blaster). It is massively cheaper than LPS-2 and
is sold for $2.50 per can at Home Depot. The can is slightly smaller
than LPS-2, but the price difference more than makes up for it.
However, this PB-50 does not disperse widely, it shoots a jet of it.
So, there is no good alternative to LPS-2.
I agree with the opinion expressed here, that buying LPS-2 by the
gallon, and using spray bottles, is the best bet if I need to use a
lot of nondrying, easily sprayable, penetrating rust preventative.
This is what I will do. I have a large quantity of steel, tool steel
etc. I will sell some, but I will keep a lot and I want that steel to
stay clean and not rust.
i
Have you tried switching nozzles on the PB50 can?
I have used liquid floor polish to keep stuff from rusting. It is
inexpensive if you get it at moving sales.
Dan
On Sat, 6 Mar 2010 18:02:54 -0800 (PST), the infamous
snipped-for-privacy@prolynx.com scrawled the following:
For hinges, pull the pins, wipe them off, run some coarse steel wool
over 'em, wipe 'em again, dip your finger in some moly wheel bearing
grease and put a thin coat on the full length and circumference of the
pin. Clean your finger off on the top of the female hinge opening, and
tap the pin in. That's good for about 30 squeak-free years in most
homes.
Well, STP changed their formula and so did WD-40. Both now contain
oil. WD has under 25%, but it's there now. WD hasn't even tried to
talk people out of the idea of using it as a lubricant because it
means that they'll have to buy _much_ more WD. I've amazed many a
mother when I took the squeak (and kept it out) from their kids'
bicycle and tricycle wheels. I'm truly glad that Big Wheels are no
longer an issue. DAMN, those things are LOUD! No way to lube plastic
tires on concrete or asphalt.
That has been more of a problem here in Oregon than it was for me in
California. I'll have to locate some LPS1.
What did you replace it with, spray lithium grease?
--
The blind are not good trailblazers.
-- federal judge Frank Easterbrook
What I've found to work very well on cheap steel door hinges is 90-weight hypoid
gear oil, which is the consistency of honey and so will creep into all the nooks
and crannies.
To apply, I close the door, and one-by-one drive the hingepin out, butter coat
it with the hypoid oil, and reinsert. After a day or so, the oil has found its
way into the places where metal interferes with metal, and the grinding and
squeaking sounds are gone.
The smell of the hypoid oil goes away after a few days. Put a paper towel in
the gap between door and jam under the hinges to catch any drips - the oil will
stain things.
Joe Gwinn
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