Alternatives to LPS-2

Very good! There really was a WD-39, you know. And all the other numbers. The one they finally produced was marketed under the same name they used for it in the lab -- it was their 40th try to come up with a cheap solution for displacing water.

Great test. It helps rule out lots of products quickly and shows which ones work under the nastiest conditions. That's salt and water in your liquid cups, right?

I'd like to see how the expensive metal polishes (Everbrite and Sharkskin), fare in this kind of test, too.

Is it still available?

The rust probably combined with one of the additives, perhaps?

-- The blind are not good trailblazers.

-- federal judge Frank Easterbrook

On Sat, 06 Mar 2010 21:45:48 -0600, the infamous Ignoramus26053 scrawled the following:

The advertising boys in Tucker have been working late:

The can label says "LPS-2 Heavy-duty Lubricant"

The msds says: "Section 1 ? Identification Product Name: LPS 2®

Part Number: 00222, 02128, 00205, 00255, C00222, C02128, C00205, C00255

Chemical Name: Petroleum Distillates

Product Use: An industrial lubricant designed to displace moisture from mechanical and electrical equipment, provide light-duty lubrication and short-term rust prevention. (What duty?)

Manufacturer Information: LPS Laboratories, 4647 Hugh Howell Rd., Tucker, GA, USA 30084"

I wonder which it is...

-- The blind are not good trailblazers.

-- federal judge Frank Easterbrook

Give that man a ceegar! WD40's most impressive feature is it's marketing dept.

Newb

...

Geez - this thread has been about LPS-*2*, but I've been thinking LPS-*3* (although LPS-3 has snuck in).

Anyhow, LPS-2 & PB-50 are primarily lubricants, that rust protect too, according to their manufacturers.

LPS-3 is primarily a rust preventer. Blaster has a competitive product (I think) called Corrosion Stop

anybody used this? Like PB-50, it is much cheaper than the LPS version.

Bob

On Sun, 07 Mar 2010 12:33:42 -0500, the infamous Joseph Gwinn scrawled the following:

Oh my Crom! That stuff stinks worse than any crap I've ever shat out. How could you stand that? I absolutely hate the smell of that stuff.

No it doesn't. I had a single drop of it in my kitchen and it stunk for months, until I'd PineSol the shit out of it. It's horrible.

I still prefer my moly grease, which doesn't go anywhere and doesn't have much of a scent at all, even right out of the can.

-- The blind are not good trailblazers.

-- federal judge Frank Easterbrook

And hydrochloric acid :-) That kind of shortens the duration of the trial...

I have a 10 year old can on the shelf. I only use it if I find a nice piece of steel which I intend to use in a distant future and don't want it to rust meanwhile. Otherwise it is a pain as it is so sticky.

That is what I thought. I wondered what the additive was though. The colour of the rust notwithstanding, the protection WD40 offered was better than some others. BTW at the end of the test there was a greasy layer on all the spray compounds: G96, T9, WD40 and LPS3.

There is a tendency for shop workers, particularly woodworkers to recommend paste wax as a rust protectant for unpainted surfaces of machine tools. In this test it was shown to be no better than control. This is consistent with other literature: Flexner, who wrote book on wood finishing, maintains that wax does not pose any significant barrier to water or water vapour when applied to wood. There is no reason why it should behave differently on metal.

BTW WD40 is the recommended cleaning and oiling agent for VZ firearms :

(page 15)

I've heard that the Soviets used drain cleaner on the AK-47.

jsw

It *is* a terrible smell. For a day or two.

That is not my experience. Perhaps brands differ?

I have tried various kinds of grease. The problem with grease is that it is soon pushed and/or scraped out of the critical area, whereas heavy oil will creep back into that same critical area, time after time. Until the oil dries out.

Joe Gwinn

On Sun, 07 Mar 2010 22:59:57 -0500, the infamous Joseph Gwinn scrawled the following:

Very possibly, as do our individual sniffers.

My experience has it running out the bottom and not creeping back. YMMV.

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On Sun, 7 Mar 2010 16:56:12 -0800, the infamous "Michael Koblic" scrawled the following:

Crom, you really like to light 'em up in there, don't you, Doc?

A lovely bit like Cosmolene In A Can, is it?

I'm a Jeff Jewitt finishing fan. (So there, Flexner! ;)

I do a whole lot more woodworking than metalworking. I've found that paste wax offers pretty good protection from the acid in my hands and it's not too bad for rust protection in my dry shop. I should rewax tools at least once a year but actually don't get around to doing the whole stable until 4 or 5 years go by. (Hangs head in shame.)

Pros include making planes much easier to move on wood, too.

Those are mighty long pistols, aren't they? (BTW, do they have an _English_ translation of that manual? I no speaka da Czech.) I'm surprised that WD got the nod. (I wonder who bought the guy off?)

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On Sun, 7 Mar 2010 17:15:38 -0800 (PST), the infamous Jim Wilkins scrawled the following:

NOTHIN' can hurt those little sweeties.

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Where was the drop? If not on metal, yes the smell lingers. I am very fastidious when carrying and applying the hypoid oil.

I used to put a lot of oil in the hinge and let it drain, but now I put a thinish layer on the pin. Enough oil stays in the hinge that I don't need to reapply for some years.

Some kinds of grease also slowly drool oil, and these kinds of grease could work on a hinge.

The advantage of hypoid oil is that it is designed to handle sliding metal-to-metal contact, and has the additives to prove it.

There must be a way to use STP here.

Joe Gwinn

On Mon, 08 Mar 2010 08:46:59 -0500, the infamous Joseph Gwinn scrawled the following:

In a crack on the 30 y/o asphalt kitchen linoleum tiles. I think that drip was the reason I went to Future acrylic floor "wax", and I've used the wonderful stuff ever since.

My latest test has lasted 8 years without needing reapplication. I did the doors when I moved in and none of them squeaks or catches in the slightest yet. No fuss, no muss, no drips, no smell, no maintenance. Works for me. I think it's StaLube moly wheel bearing grease, and I haven't had a single callback for a squeak returning yet.

Yes, probably, and they would cause extra maintenance from drips.

Yes, those yummy smelling hypoid additives. Har! Most of my doors are hollow and don't require much from a grease (surface loading is guaranteed to be less than that on a differential gear) so I'll continue to avoid hypoid, thanks. Besides, most squeaking comes not from the rubbing between the pin and hinge leaf, but from the flaking rust dropping into the wear areas. Both our lubes should prevent it.

Oh, you're just a glutton for punishment, aren't you, Joe? Why don't we teflon-treat our door pins? "Folks, for only $499.95, we can do yer doors. Lifetime guarantee." (We'll be out of bidness long before that.) Or what about ball bearing hinges? That's the ticket!

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Sounds like good stuff.

But if slow enough would keep the interference zone oiled without dripping.

Actually, the hinges on some swinging windows in my 1929 house are interesting. The staples are galvanized steel, and the pins are solid brass. This worked while exposed to the elements and left unlubricated for 70 years. So, being HSM types, we can make new brass hinge pins. (I'm guessing one cannot buy solid brass hinge pins any more, only steel with a cosmetic thin bras plating layer.)

Joe Gwinn

Please! Windex!!! It's good at removing the corrosive residue from the ComBloc ammo...

For precise application, use a hypoidermic syringe.

Wax works. I understand that Cosmoline is microcrystalline wax and oil.

Dan