Aluminum hammered finish update!

Jan 16, 2005 6 Replies

Well, I tried a pistol grip impact hammer with a bit ground down to a good radius. My compressor was a bit underpowered so the depth and width of the indentations was inconsistent. If the difference were random it would actually look good but there tends to be lots of ugly grouping of patterns as the compressor tried to keep up. After half an hour the compressor seized up anyway... The 12" x 12" x .125" plate of 5052 was also warping as much as .5" over 4" of the pattern width. Not so good considering the final piece will be 42" x 106". I'd have a cylinder! So I tried a needle scaler. A Chicago Pneumatic cheapie with .125" needles. The difference was dramatic in both consistence in depth of dimple and amount of surface I could do quickly. The distortion was way less too, only .25" over 12" of width. Any suggestions on how to flatten out the sheets after I texture them? That's still 10.5" over just the width, 26.5" over the length. I tried reverse rolling the 12" samples through a hand rolling machine without much luck. It seems that the 5052 might be dulling the needles as well. Is it worth trying to resharpen them? Perhaps by grinding them flat again or something?



I'm still open to ANY reasonable suggestion to do this differently.



Sorry for being long-winded, this is really important.



thanks all



Ben


Can you "texture" them from both sides to help keep them flat or at least more flat than they are now?

Did you anneal the workpiece?

Kevin Gallimore

I wonder what might happen if you were to apply the sheeting to the door face before hammering.

I think I would plan on using contact cement. The hammer blows will deform both the wood? and the skin.

I also wondered about installing tire chains and driving over the surface.

(top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net

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