Any beer brewers in here?

yes, and basically what it boils down to is that the coke ( pin lock ) kegs have a different thread....suggest buff the outside nidsection of the unit with a maroon scotchbrite which will make the manufacturer and model# much easier to read...

Here is a link :

Sadly ( for you ) you will probably never see this post because you are a right wing f****it who has claimed to have killfiled me quite sometime ago....

He ain't gonna miss it ... and while I seldom agree with your politics , occasionally you come up with something that I find amusing . Why is it that so many here feel the need to inject politics into virtually *EVERY* post ? IMO it demeans you *and* the newsgroup , and it interferes with the exchange of information that I came here for . Were it not for the occasional gem that I find , I'd dump the group from my newsreader - fortunately I've managed to filter the worst offenders. Otherwise there'd be too much crap to dig thru to find that occasional gem .

What he said..................

These folks have ball-lock posts to fit recently manufactured formerly pin-lock kegs.

I have dealt with them, with no problem. I found then responsive and helpful by email. There are other sources also.

Mine was an older 38L keg that these adapters don't fit, and I just wound up buying some pin-lock fittings. Having a couple of sets of pin lock parts around is no great sacrifice and gives you a lot of flexibility.

____________________________________________________________________ Gardner Buchanan gbuchana(a)teksavvy(dot)com FreeBSD: Where you want to go. Today.

I got three 5 gallon and one 3 gallon Cornies for free. The 5's are pin, the 3 is post. I have found two suppliers that have what I think is what I need. I also have a laundry list of other items, so I am going to order some sets, and if they are not what I need, I'll return them with an order for the rest of the stuff.

After finding out how difficult it is to retrofit some of these tanks, I have just about resigned myself to use the pin types and quit spending money. By the time I get through with all this falderal, I could have just bought some kegs with the right connectors.

I brewed some home brew and bottled. What a process that is. So, I have decided to single fermentation chamber kegging. But still, it is not nearly as easy as 1-2-3. I think I shall just use what I have, and be on the lookout for more modern equipment.

Steve

I typically brew ~5-1/2 gallon batches in 6 gallon glass carboys and I don't go into a secondary fermenter at all anymore--instead, I simply rack directly into the keg once fermentation is complete ( usually about a week )...works fine and gives me finished beer in what is probably the bare minimum amount of time...

You have to be careful to not stir up sediment--basically try and leave behind as much of the sediment as possible when racking from primary into the keg....

--Usually, I leave about a 1/2 gallon of beer behind in the primary, covering the yeast cake by about an inch and then I replace the airlock and set it side...as long as you keep it under airlock and covered with an inch or so of beer, and can get to it within the next couple weeks or so then that yeast can be used to brew your next batch...

Anyways, once into the keg, I connect the co2 and pressurize to about

4psi....pulling the safety release to vent to atmosphere 3 times in order to get rid of any oxygen in the head space.

Then it goes into the fridge for crash cooling, after about 4 days the beer should be at average carbonation level and mostly clear as long as you had used a fining agent like irish moss or gelatin.

Also, it's a VERY good idea to cut off about an inch from the bottom of the pickup tube otherwise you will be always picking up sediment....in addition, be careful if you're weighing the keg or otherwise jostling it around because that will also stir up sediment.