Bench grinders crap?

Are all small bench grinder wheels crap nowadays? Bought two new wheels for my old 6" B&D bench grinder from the local hardware store. When mounted, b
oth wheels are nearly 1/16" out of true both side to side and OD. Figured m aybe the flanges were bad so I turned some new one from round stock to matc h the ID of the wheels. Mounted them and they were still horribly out. My f langes are jam on, it's the center holes in the wheels that are so bad. Bou ght a new grinder from HF, yea, I know, cheap China crap, and it is just as bad right out of the box.I just want a general purpose grinder/wire wheel set up that will run decently true without shaking the whole bench, not a t ool grinder. Problems seem to be the wheels, not the grinders themselves.Su ggestions?
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The center hole wouldn't affect lateral runout. The O.D. problem is common even with 'good' wheels, unless they fit really tightly on the arbors.
Dress them! (But first, you need to figure out that side-to-side runout. It's sure not caused by the centerholes being wrong!
Lloyd
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On 08/31/2015 10:40 AM, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: ...

Certainly can be if they're not perpendicular to the faces...and given his later report when went w/ Norton instead of no-name, appears clearly the issue. Of course, they _could_ be trued up, too, and then sleeved for diameter.
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Sorry, no. OR he's confused about what it means to have the flanges tightened down properly.
The flanges register to the shoulder on the arbor. If the stone's hole were cut so 'diagonally' that it couldn't seat on the flanges, then tightening them down until they seated flush to the wheel surfaces would break the wheel.
The radial run-out is probably the wheel. So what? That's what wheel- dressers are for.
Lloyd
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On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 14:12:09 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"

Another potential problem is the SAE shaft and metric wheel difference. Tape up the shaft to true the oversized center hole of the wheel, then dress the mounted wheel to round/concentric.
Even HF wheels don't mount tightly to HF shafts, and both are semi-metrical objets d' art. Amazing! <g>
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On 2015-08-31, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:

    If the centerholes are sufficiently angled with respect to the axis of the wheel, and are close enough to the diameter of the grinder shaft, it may indeed force it to wobble. (Maybe check the thickness at various points around the wheel, to make sure that it isn't a problem of the two sides not being parallel to each other.
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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AGAIN... NOT-A-CHANCE, unless you don't seat the flange washers. If you don't do that, you have no reason to expect the wheel to run true, and if you DO it with a wheel so badly bored that it would run wobbly, you'll break the wheel.
This is really a dumb discussion. If the darned flanges are running true to the shaft, the wheel HAS TO. <c'mon!> I've bought dozens of wheels for my own grinders over the decades. I've never found even 'dollar-bin seconds' to run so badly they couldn't be 1) mounted square, and 2) trued radially.
I certainly don't use them now, for their cutting characteristics, but when I was in my 20s and 30s, I used them a lot (for being broke all the time).
Lloyd
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On 2015-09-06, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:

    Depends. I've seen stamped flange washers which could be distorted by tightening on a wheel with a bad bore such as I described. Machined ones are a different matter -- depending on the thickness of the metal.
    Granted -- a subsequent test with just the washers in place and now wheel would show the washers to no longer be true.
    And -- you did not cover the other possibility which I mentioned (in one of my followups, perhaps not this one) that a wheel might even have the problem of the two faces not being parallel.

    So -- dollar bin seconds may have been better back then. :-)
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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On Saturday, September 5, 2015 at 5:47:53 PM UTC-7, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

I've seen some grinding wheels with a center hole plugged with a grey material (?sulfur) which is then precisely bored to the shaft dimension plus a small tolerance... if you tighten the flanges on such a wheel, if it is bored slightly askew, you'll bend the shaft and everything goes wobbly.
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Epoxy. If from a good supplier, the hole will be perpendicular to the faces.
Joe Gwinn
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If from a BAD supplier, if they've gone to the trouble of plugging and re- drilling the center hole, it's going to be as true as it needs to be.
Lloyd
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Right. Sulfur. <snicker!> L
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"Gerry" wrote in message
The Norton wheels (aluminum oxide) are pretty good, good enough that you can quickly dress them to run true radially. Mine, on a Delta 6" variable-speed bench grinder, don't have any significant side-to-side irregularities.
I use the dry grinder for the initial shaping of woodturning tools before committing them to final sharpening on a wet wheel, so I want them running pretty true. I've taken the further step of mounting the dry grinder wheels on bushings that I get from Craft Supplies USA (http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com ). Here's a link: https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/97/6196/Raptor-R3X-Grinding-Wheel-Bushing-2-Piece-Set?term=raptor
One thing you should do before you blame the wheels is check the shaft on your grinder for its own runout.
Tom
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On Monday, August 31, 2015 at 10:55:39 AM UTC-4, Gerry wrote:

or my old 6" B&D bench grinder from the local hardware store. When mounted, both wheels are nearly 1/16" out of true both side to side and OD. Figured maybe the flanges were bad so I turned some new one from round stock to ma tch the ID of the wheels. Mounted them and they were still horribly out. My flanges are jam on, it's the center holes in the wheels that are so bad. B ought a new grinder from HF, yea, I know, cheap China crap, and it is just as bad right out of the box.I just want a general purpose grinder/wire whee l set up that will run decently true without shaking the whole bench, not a tool grinder. Problems seem to be the wheels, not the grinders themselves. Suggestions?
I would take the wheel back to the local hardware store. Maybe get a coupl e of wheels off Ebay. The grinders Harbor Freight sells are not too bad, o r at least mine is qkay. But the wheels they come with are crap. They do not cut well .
Dan
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wrote:

My Ryobi 8" on a Grizzly pedestal stand runs smooth as silk. Not expensive.
The wheels from McMaster are not all that cheap, but decent tools never are..
--sp
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Spehro Pefhany
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On Monday, August 31, 2015 at 9:55:39 AM UTC-5, Gerry wrote:

or my old 6" B&D bench grinder from the local hardware store. When mounted, both wheels are nearly 1/16" out of true both side to side and OD. Figured maybe the flanges were bad so I turned some new one from round stock to ma tch the ID of the wheels. Mounted them and they were still horribly out. My flanges are jam on, it's the center holes in the wheels that are so bad. B ought a new grinder from HF, yea, I know, cheap China crap, and it is just as bad right out of the box.I just want a general purpose grinder/wire whee l set up that will run decently true without shaking the whole bench, not a tool grinder. Problems seem to be the wheels, not the grinders themselves. Suggestions?
Shafts on both grinders are true. Installed just the flanges on the shaft w ith a spacer between the and they run true. Installed a new Norton 3X wheel and with the flanges I made or the Raptor flanges and it runs true. Replac e the Norton with any of the other hardware store wheels and the problems r eturn
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"Gerry" wrote in message
On Monday, August 31, 2015 at 9:55:39 AM UTC-5, Gerry wrote:

Well, that seems to tell the story, then, doesn't it?
Tom
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wrote:

So, you bought trash and it wasn't satisfactory. You bought quality and it was satisfactory.
Seems to be a lesson hidden in there somewhere.
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cheers,

John B.
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On 8/31/2015 8:35 PM, John B. wrote:

"Local hardware store" is not same as HF. I think that it's generally safe to assume that the l-h-s stuff is not trash.
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On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 22:30:13 -0400, Bob Engelhardt

I suggest that if grinding wheels sell for $10.00 your local hardware shop owner can figure out the difference between $4.00 and $8.00 wholesale costs.
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