Bolting a trailer and welding?

On Apr 18, 10:52 am, Bruce L. Bergman


One thing I found out. That metal is bigger than I thought. It is 4x4 1/4 inch thick.
1.) Will my AC 220 volt buzz box welder or my Hobart MIg 130 amp weld it?
2.) Is this stuff too heavey for a small 10 foot trailer? I can get about 80 feet of it for about 80 bucks so it is cheaper than puchasing angle iron.
3.) If this trialer weights almost 2000 lbs, will it need brakes?
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On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 10:27:04 -0700 (PDT), stryped

It will need brakes FOR SURE.
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On Apr 18, 1:48 pm, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:

I think I meant 1000 lbs. I guess it would still need brakes.
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On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 12:21:05 -0700 (PDT), stryped

General rule of thumb. If the loaded trailer ways over 2000 lbs OR more than 50% of the empty towing vehicle weight, you need brakes. To tow without them is foolhardy under those conditions.
When I towed the 8 foot "Rainbow" tent trailer behind the Vauxhall HC (Firenza) power was never a problem, the trailer was less than half the weight of the rather light car (just) and there was many a time I wished I had brakes on the trailer. Brakes on the car were more than adequate - I had oversized (extra wide) Radial T/As on and could slide all 4 with no problem - and did several times trying to stop the trailer quickly. A car that short has very little directional stability when the rear wheels come loose with a trailer behind!!!!!!!
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clare, at, snyder, dot, ontario, dot, canada wrote:

Trailer brakes are a plus even if the vehicle brakes can handle the extra load due to the ability to independently activate the trailer brakes to get control of trailer oscillation. A lot of states also require brakes on any trailer over 1,000#.
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stryped wrote:

If it weighed zero lbs and you added a 2000 lb load would you want brakes"
I *think* you want brakes!
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On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 10:27:04 -0700 (PDT), stryped

Buzz box no problem, 130-amp MIG no way.
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Yes, Let's say your trailer's frame looks like this (looking from the side):
#####################
If, instead, you make it look like this by adding a side:
|~~~|~~~|~~~|~~~|~~~| #####################
made from much smaller material, say 1/8" thick 1" square tubing, or even 1" angle, the frame will be a lot stiffer, without too much extra cost. On my trailer, this function is performed by the unibody bed.
i
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On Apr 17, 12:07 pm, Ignoramus29232 <ignoramus29...@NOSPAM. 29232.invalid> wrote:

The ends should be triangles instead of rectangles. Otherwise this is a common way to build a trailer for heavy loads.
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On Thu, 17 Apr 2008 11:07:02 -0500, Ignoramus29232

/!----!----!\ ############# is a lot stonger
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On 2008-04-17, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada <clare> wrote:

Yes, I agree totally.
i
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On Thu, 17 Apr 2008 05:35:18 -0700 (PDT), stryped

As long as it forms a truss it will add strength. a simple square rail will not do anything *untill you bolt a plywood web in - then the plywood adds some regidity)
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Any way I can do this with a floor jack?
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I was practicing on 3/16" and 1/4" plate from the school's scrap pile. For 1/8" material you can use a vise like Iggy suggested.
Jim Wilkins
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I would love to have access to a pile like that.
i
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You're starting to make me nervous? In what part of the country will you be towing this thing?
My recommendation: go to a lot that sells new trailers. Look. Learn. Northern hydraulics sells a book that teaches building trailers

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I have looked on lots. There are as many designs as I have questions.
One question by the way, would it be stupid to put a dovetail and a fold down gate on a 10 foot trailer? And if I did have a dovetail, when calculating the axle placement using the 60/40 rule, do you consider the dovetail in terms of the total length?
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On Thu, 17 Apr 2008 14:03:38 -0700 (PDT), stryped

Depends ENTIRELY how you intend to load it.
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On Apr 17, 5:37 pm, clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada wrote:

.
I would guess most of the time the load would be on the regular part of the bed. The dovetail would just be there if I ever had to load my 8n tractor on it.
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stryped wrote:

The dovetail has weight and affects the balance of the trailer. Figure it out. If your trailer is only 10' long you won't have much room to shift your load back and forth without being on the dovetail. Plus you'll probably wind up with some kind of ramps - also heavy - probably attached to the rear.
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