brass to glass - best adhesive

Real, slow cure araldite / epoxy is much stronger than the 5 minute version.

Some urethanes - sika - may be useful.

Hit an auto glass shop and get some of the bonding agent and activator used to set rear view mirror pucks.

Seconded.

Seconded. Even some moisture-cure polyurethanes are good gap-fillers. The ones marketed in the US as "Gorilla Glue" and "Elmer's Polyurethane" (they're almost identical) combine very good adhesion with some foaming that fills gaps.

-- Ed Huntress

They are great for woods - but...

I'd not try the polyurethanes for something like this. They make a horrid mess. Then there is the differing expansion rates issue.

If this is something that must look presentable I's stick with the original Sika Flex 252 (pun unavoidable).

A much more flexible bond that can resist the expansion shear.

"Steve W." fired this volley in news:gq97bj$vam $ snipped-for-privacy@nntp.motzarella.org:

activator

So far, that's the best solution.

I'd recommend one more: Find some sodium silicate solution (among other uses "egg preserver" and "fire retardant solution".

Sodium silicate takes a LONG time to dry, because it's water-borne, but if painted on in layers, and allowed to partially dry between coats, it gap-fills, and will absolutely bond to clean glass with such strength that the glass will spall long before the bond will part.

If concentrated, it's quite viscous. A few layers will do. Give a week or more to dry in your "non-breathing" application.

LLoyd

This is what I'd use.

Roger

I haven't used it for an adhesive, but I do know CO2 gas will greatly accelerate the cure.

Whatever you use you probably want something that cures a bit rubbery, 'cause brass and glass have different rates of thermal expansion.

I think the epoxy should do the trick if it is coming unstuck from the glass perhaps you can score the inside of the hole in the glass a bit. Harbor Freight has some cheap but effective diamond burrs that would work in the Dremmel.

To remove the blob of epoxy from the brass post heat it with a torch and the epoxy will pop right off. When cool hit it with some sand paper to scuff up the surface.

"Tim Wescott" wroteWhatever you use you probably want something that cures a bit rubbery,

Yes. I suggest a silicone adhesive. It is gap-filling, and because of its elasticity it stretches instead of cracking,

Seka makes at least two adhesives to glue glass and plastic to metals, wood, plastics, etc. 295 UV is the one for Plexiglas and there is another for glass.

Or the guys down tha car window place :-) Cheers,

Bruce (bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Problem - no gap filling ability.

I've been wanting to get some sodium silicate (aka "water glass"). Has anyone got any ideas of where to try to find it? I haven't seen it since I was a kid (too long ago).

Interesting - I want to coat some old Transite sheets for use as a work surface for glass blowing - it seals the surface very well. What were you doing with it that you used CO2 as an accelerant?

Joe

I've got about a gallon and a half of the stuff left, bought from IMS Wright Refractories in the midlands for use as a fibre rigidiser. What sort of glass blowing do you do?, I've been doing it as a hobby now for about 10 years.

It can be obtained from most any foundry supply warehouse. When mixed approx

2% with silica sand or equivalent, it makes a good foundry core sand. Simply ram up the core box (mold), gas with CO2 for 10 to 15 seconds, and you have a cured core.

You can also buy it from a variety of chemical suppliers online. That's how I got my gallon a couple of years ago. I use it in the brush-type electrolytic de-rusting process that's buried somewhere in the Metalworking dropbox.

-- Ed Huntress

I got my gallon from McMaster Carr.

$13.42 a gal

Paul K. Dickman

That's what surgeons recently used to reattach Charla Nash's face.....

E6000 is what glass artisans use to join glass and metal. Needs 24 hours. E.g.:

Mostly I do neon - my main interest is using it as accent lighting for architectural use. It's strictly a hobby with me as well, though. I originally learned flameworking, but neon was always my goal. However, I got hooked on all aspects of glass forming involving fire; I just can't afford the fuel cost of doing hot glass!

My studio is nearing completion, and I hope to be busy playing (and burning myself) soon.

What is the "fiber rigidiser" use? Is it for the insulation in an annealing oven?

Joe