Bruce, I called Champion and according to them, this pump is very old, but they had data on it and said that it is a 5 HP pump with 500-600 RPM speed range.
So, I will do some pulley math tonight, but at this point I think that the pulley is appropriate and the motor is appropriate and I just need to find out why the motor does not spin it as hard as it should and why it gets so hot and bogged down.
I am going to order a 6206 bearing to replace the DE bearing, which is total s*it at this point.
I may be wrong on this point, but I think that if the motor shaft support bearings are bad enough that they do not keep the motor rotor centered in the stator, this can cause higher than normal currents also.
I have ordered a new bearing from McMaster (double sealed 6206ZZ) and will receive it tomorrow. I will disassemble this motor today.
I think that after all the fixing, and revisiting the run capacitor wiring that I may have bungled, it should be able to run the pump.
i[ ... ]
And if they are bad enough, the rotor will be rubbing on the pole pieces and dragging. If you see shiny metal on the rotor while it is apart, this has been happening.
Good Luck, DoN.
Okay, now I know you aren't guessing, and will shut up. ;-) Keep it supplied with fresh oil every year or two, and the compressor will probably outlive both of us.
(Hint - that means rig up an oil drain nipple and ball valve before you put the paintbrushes away. The oil changes actually get done when all you have to do is remove the safety pipe plug, hang a little bucket off the end of the ball valve, and open the valve to drain.)
-->--
Yes, I do this to all compressors and all motors with this sort of drain. A pity that it is not done so by OEM.
Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
Ask the community — no account required