Champion Forge Blower Motor Rheostat

The rheostat was messed up on a Champion Forge blower, so it had two speeds. Off and On. First day at school was not nice, with poor coal and no low speeds...pop
corn from the fire all over the place. Second day my instructor brought coke, and there was a world of difference then. Since, I have been unable to locate any rheostats for the Champion Blower. . . . . .This is on the front plate.
No. 3291H106 8452 8 ohms Champion Regulator 50 & 51 Champion Blower Forge Co. Lancaster, Penn. Cutler Hammer. . . .I figure with 8 ohms on 112VAC this should be about 14 Amps, which would mean almost two HP (6.8 Amps/HP I believe, maybe it is 6800 watts/HP). I doubt this HP is the case as the motor is quite small...5" dia, and 5 " long... Anyone have a link to where the motor controller can be purchased? Are they repairable? Evidently all the windings on the slide are contacting...maybe just dirt is shorting them out. This is a large rheostat, almost 6" accross. My instructor and I would be happy with any assistance...thanks. PS...I tried Google, and as with all my searches there...nothing.
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1. Very likely the nichrome wire burned in one spot and could be silver soldered (temp protection) or twisted and spot welded. Often a twist is all that is needed. If burnt on the side - easier to jumper to fix. (if on the contact area - more complex as the fix must be smooth for the wiper).
2. - I might have a replacement pot that can handle that - but they are pricey as they are tougher and a chunk of ceramic.
Take a look at the physical rheostat and see if it seems to be fixable. If so then try. I'll look in the shop for one I think I have. Printed this out. And since it is so large - very likely it is repairable and would be in line with the one I have (If I do.).
Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com /
theChas. wrote:

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On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 17:07:54 -0600, "theChas."

I'm not trying to be a smart ass but do you know the difference between a wire wound variable resister and an auto transformer or variac? If not google the two terms. If you are using it on an A.C. circuit a variac seem most likely.
Once you have identified the device you can proceed with either repair or replacement although a lasting repair is problematic.
Bruce-in-Bangkok (correct email address for reply)
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Variac(r) transformers are poor speed controls. They vary voltage. Motors need high voltage to keep going - rheostats change current and some voltage.
If you provide a picture then the facts will be out. I have both and used both for many years as a Physicist and Electronic Engineer.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com /
Bruce in Bangkok wrote:

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replying to Martin H. Eastburn, ABat wrote: Hello Martin, I have one of these rheostats. Do you repair them? The ceramic needs replacement I believe orherswise in good condition... Hate to buy a modern one instead of repairing the original that goes with blower! Thanks
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Rheostats are old tech. Ohmite still makes 'em but one that large will run better than $200.
SCR phase angle control is the way to go now. For instance, this little jewel at $12 will do the job just fine
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?ItemnumberC060
Industrial/commercial light dimmers will work too. Home Depot handles the Leviton brand of commercial dimmers.
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpSctDspRte.jsp?section 792&minisite025&Filter=Y&jfn=ZG9F65083B9D4EA61B9C9B8C779837EC82A1191932C5372CBE40E80F912BCCE593C2C8FCC11498E9D3B1051EED6F4D1F1B3C&oas=H94_zxdPiMqDlbfDC3Hleg.. http://preview.tinyurl.com/ynotrn
Gad, what a URL. Beneath the shiny fascia is a finned heat sink. I use the 1000 watt version for a variety of speed control tasks around my shop. Note that cheap residential dimmers probably won't work with a motor, as they're not designed for inductive loads. The nice thing about these units is that they mount in standard outlet boxes.
The motor will make some buzzing sound and may get a little warmer with SCR control than with the rheostat. If the buzz is annoying then a Variac variable auto-transformer can be used. Here is an example:
http://www.surplussales.com/Variacs/VariacIndex.html
I cited that site because the photos are good. The prices are outrageous, probably full boat retail. A 120 volt, 6 or 8 amp Variac should be easily obtainable used/surplus for under $100, usually much under.
I have a couple of those $12 HF speed controllers and like them. That's the first thing I'd try.
John -- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.neon-john.com http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net! Tellico Plains, Occupied TN If stupidity hurt then there'd be Aspirin in the salt shakers.
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The 8 ohms is in series with the motor, which will have many more ohms to add to the curcuit, so the calculation is incorrect. I'd guess the motor's dc resisitance to be about another 8 to 30 ohms. If you want to keep the old rheostat intact, take it to a motor repair shop. if you simply want the blower to work, get a lamp dimmer. Another approach is to let the motor run at full speed and add a damper in the pipe.
Recently I needed a large rheostat for a solar energy experiment and I found this place on the web: http://www.surplussales.com /
Pete Stanaitis -------------------
theChas. wrote:

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This is the more traditional and reliable approach.
--
Stuart Winsor

For Barn dances and folk evenings in the Coventry and Warwickshire area
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Stuart wrote:

And if you want to not have it eat your entire coal supply in a session, set it up so that you have to stand on a treadle, or provide some other means of directing the air into the firepot, other than having a switch to remember to turn down.
Something like a pedal that closes off the bleed-off of the pressure, or a 2 (or more) speed momentary contact switch that goes back to idle when you are out of the fire and working your parts.
It'll prevent you burning up your other workpieces too, if you get hung up on something, or get distracted.
Cheers Trevor Jones
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<snip> The malfunctioning rheostat (I figure it is one because the handle rotates about 90 degrees in a arc and probably has a brush riding against a resistance coil), runs hotter than heck. The top is a half round also, like fitting the half round coil. . . . .I have one of those router speed controllers, (works great) but I always figured they only worked on motors that had brushes. I am fairly sure this Champion motor does not have brushes, just guessing from it size and shape. Since the impeller gets air intake from both the motor side, and the outside, one would have to block off the motor side intake to put a rotating baffle on the outside intake. Owner is figuring to put a slide gate valve in the 3" outlet pipe. Undoubtedly the best way. thanks to all.
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I woulld be surprised if the motor does NOT have brushes. The 3 or 4 that I have all do have brushes.
Pete Stanaitis ------------------------
theChas. wrote:

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http://www.ohmite.com/catalog/pdf/rheostats203.pdf This might help. Find the right model... form / case.
Have you looked ? might be a burnt wire only - not the stat itself. Might be a singe winding or the brush. Brushes can be replaced.
Inspect before spending money.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com /
theChas. wrote:

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Charles
championfancorp.com
Came right up on Google.
You do need to do more ID of the defective part.
Bob AZ
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replying to theChas., Dave Rogers wrote: A bit after the fact (March 2018), but I re-wound a friend's voltage reducer (I have an electric shop) after it suffered the same failures. The very old nichrome wire just gave up due to age, corrosion, and constant hot/cold repetitions. New wire can be bought from Amazon, along with the stove cement to anchor the new wire onto the ceramic base. The number of windings must be calculated to match the correct resistance between the brass contacts. Total resistance for this unit was 82 ohms, as listed on the face plate, but any combination between the contacts can be used; called being creative. This job was more than a repair. It was saving an irreplaceable antique; a piece of history.
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replying to theChas., Dave Rogers wrote: A bit after the fact (March 2018), but I re-wound a friend's voltage reducer (I have an electric shop) after it suffered the same failures. The very old nichrome wire just gave up due to age, corrosion, and constant hot/cold repetitions. New wire can be bought from Amazon, along with the stove cement to anchor the new wire onto the ceramic base. The number of windings must be calculated to match the correct resistance between the brass contacts. Total resistance for this unit was 82 ohms, as listed on the face plate, but any combination between the contacts can be used; called being creative. This job was more than a repair. It was saving an irreplaceable antique; a piece of history.
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replying to Martin H. Eastburn, ABat wrote: Hello Martin, I have one of these rheostats. Do you repair them? The ceramic needs replacement I believe orherswise in good condition... Hate to buy a modern one instead of repairing the original that goes with blower! Thanks
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