I recently picked up an old Wayne 5 HP two stage air compressor. It
certainly needs gaskets and a shaft seal and I was told it needs rings
and valves. Is it common to have to bore the cylinders on a compressor
when replacing rings in the same way that you do on an engine?
Also, the tank paint is a mess, are there any issues with sending the
tank out to be sandblasted prior to painting?
Lastly, does anybody know of a good source for parts for this monster?
It is probably a series 5200 Wayne.
Thanks for the reply. I don't think it is the same Wayne. These guys
were owned by Dresser Industries and it looks like they died or got sold
in the 80's. There is still a Wayne in the gas pump business that might
be part of this company. There was also a comment I ran across that they
might have been sold to LeRoi, but that hasn't yielded any parts either.
This is an extreme PITA. I had a Dresser compressor pump a year or two
ago that I sold.
All my attempts to figure out anything about it went nowhere. All that
information became a victim of a serial corporate restructuring. The
pump was amazing, but there was nothing at all to be found about it.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Maybe you can call some of the places that sell Wayne pump parts and
ask them what happened.
I found a parts kit for it at Central Air Compressor Parts in Michigan
for $560. If the tank and motor are in usable shape, the choice becomes
rebuild the existing or replace the pump.
I have seen pumps in the $200 - $300 range.
Yep, the math of repair vs replace surely is not easy in this
As for the price, I have seen whole 80 gallon Quincy QR25 compressors
(sans motor) in $200 range.
Bob, can you clarify why exactly do you think that you need to rebuild
this pump? What is wrong with it?
All that I know is wrong is that the shaft seal is leaking because the
lower side of the pump and half the tank were covered in oily goop. The
people that I bought this compressor from said that it was pumping
slower than it did. I think that I am going to try to replace the shaft
seal and set it up and see if it works adequately for what I want. If it
does, the expensive work can be put off.
Where have you seen the QR25's in that price range? The pressure
lubricated Quincy compressors are what I really wanted.
Does it leak when just sitting around in the OFF position?
I would try to quantify the leak before doing any repairs. It would
probably be a bigger issue if you had to run your compressor for 8
hours a day. Maybe the leak is not that big in relation to how much
you use it.
I am very doubtful that these people could make a good guess about
"running slower than before". You can measure the time it takes to
fill your tank from zero to, say, 100 PSI, and compare it with some
other compressor, the math is very easy and gives you the CFM.
Your CFM = the other guy's CFM * your tank size/his tank size * his
fill time / your fill time
I hope that I did not get this equation backwards, but if I did it
should be easy to correct.
I bought a Quincy compressor with a QR-25 model 340 head (rated 5-10
HP), on a 80 gallon tank, from a Craigslist seller for $200. Due to
peculiarity of negotiation, I did not take the motor. (I said that the
motor is old crap and I do not need it, that lowered the price quite a
bit, and was probably true anyway). But I had a 10 HP motor at home
anyway, which I promptly installed.
Pictures are here
I had to install a new 10 HP motor and a new pressure switch.
Why not give it a try as it is now, without rebuilding anything. Find out
what, if anything , is wrong with it, and decide then what to do? Lower
output from a compressor is usually a resuly of faulty valves. If the outlet
valve is leaking, it usually leads to a higher than normal head temperature
as well as lower output. This is because the air the has been compressed is
hotter than the inlet air. When it leaks back throught the valve it is
aready hot from compression, and is heated again when recompressed, giving a
tot head. Leaking inlet valaves don't affect the head temperature. If the
lubricating oil hasn't run out or gotten below the splash fins on the
connecting rod, cylinder and ring wear is usually fairly minimal and
,unless it has a lot of hours on it, is usually acceptable. The shaft seal
is probably available at a local bearing supplier. You may find that
cleaning and /or relapping the valves is all it needs.
I wouldn't sandblast the tank as it can work harden the tank and lead to
fatigue crack forming in higer stressed areas of the tank.Just give it a
thorough scrub wit a rotary wire brush, use a good primer and pait it.
This one is a pressure lube. I think it also has a low oil pressure
switch, but it might just be a low level float switch.
I don't know if the pump leaks while just sitting. I just got it home
Monday and have not finished cleaning it up or assembling it. The
previous owners took the motor and pump off the tank to make it easier
Well, does it really need rings? What type of valve is used, disc or
leaf? The disc valves might be resurfaced and reused, the leaf valve
shouldn't be real expensive. Gaskets and seals shouldn't be too bad,
I'm no expert, but unless it was run out of oil, the cylinders generally
shouldn't need reboring, unless it has a HUGE amount of hours on it.
Yup, replacing parts because somebody ELSE thought they might be shot
would be a big mistake.
Yeah, I've got a 1968-vintage small (2 Hp) Quincy that is still in fine
shape. When I got it, it had a 1 Hp motor, and ran all the time, with a
pneumatic unloader control. I converted it to a 2 Hp motor, and put on
electronic controls to unload for short idle periods and shut down after
longer idle. I had to put on a new safety release and replace the air
filter element, and buy oil. That's IT! Quincy sure makes a good
Thanks, this is good to know about. I found a rebuild kit today and it
is expensive ($560). Now I need to really evaluate what condition it is
in. I will clean it up and run it to see what it needs.