I think you need a set of mapp hoses, not sure oxy-acetylene would work. (thought i read it here somewhere) I also found an archived post about the regulators. According to the post, acetylene regulator will work with propane, but propane regulator wont work on acetylene gas. I would call a welding supply store in your area. Here's the archived post link:
Generally the better OXY-ACET torch makers sell components that adapt their torches to OXY-FUEL. For my Harris torch, this is just tips. You should also use special welding hose referred to as Grade T as opposed to Grade R. On the regulator, I got myself a propane regulator. I don't recall if there is any problem using an acet. regulator with propane, but I have two complete tank sets, so I keep my propane regulator on my propane bottle perpetually and eliminate the swapping. I would do my homework before using an acet. regulator with propane, like call the maker.
BTW, I just finished building a Reil torch yesterday. What a blast, literally. Ever want to try out a flame thrower? I am going to use it to fire up a forge.
Vic.
Yes, you can. You can't weld with propane but it's a mighty cutting fuel. You need a propane tip, the acetylene tip won't do the job at all.
You may need more pressure than your existing tank regulator will give, if so, use a tee fitting at the tank valve. You can run any pressure you like with propane, it's safe at all pressures the tank can provide. Keep in mind, acetylene is not that way so if you switch to that you'll not want to push it past 15 psi. Anyway, the pressure isn't so critical with propane except for the fact that the higher it is, the touchier the fuel valve on the torch will be. 15 psi is going to be more than adequate, and keeping it as low as practical will prevent things from getting too crazy in the event of a leak or severed hose.
Your acet. regulator will fit right on the fitting at the propane tank, no problems there. As another poster mentioned, you want hose that's compatable with propane. Hose that isn't will get longer over time, before it pops, and it makes for a pain- one of a pair of hoses getting longer and the other not, it wants to curl up.
The place where propane really shines as a cutting fuel is with rusted steel and multiple layers (such as cutting a nut on a bolt). It's got a more aggresive flame than acet., but this can also work against you- cutting bolt heads and wanting to not damage what's beneath them requires more attention than with acetylene.
The trick to cutting with propane is getting the flame right- you get it right and it'll outcut acetylene. Light the torch, lay it against a piece of scrap. Open the fuel valve 'till you have a big, plumey flame and then start opening the oxygen (If you don't lay it against something, the fire will often blow out when you start with the oxygen) Your torch is laying at about a 20 degree angle to the scrap- watch the flame at the tip as you continue to open the oxygen, the hottest part of the flame will be a half-inch or so out from the tip when you first notice it (the flecks of rust on the scrap steel will show red, while those closer and farther from the tip won't). Continue with more oxygen 'till the hot spot is about a quarter inch from the tip and remember the distance it's at. That's the part of the flame you want at the point the cut will start. Fiddle with the oxygen 'till it's where you like it- that's the only "right" spot.
A propane-fired cutting torch makes an evil hiss- hearing protection is definitely in order.
John
I've used a Sears hammer-activated impact wrench to loosen such things, with considerable success. Like aluminium screws in an aluminium assembly on a motorcycle. The screws come loose with a very sharp "Crack!" sound when the weld between inside and outside threads breaks.
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