Cast Iron repair help

The plain truth is that much cast iron damage cannot be repaired economically.

In the welding business, many customers make the incorrect assumption that a repair is less expensive than a replacement part. There is a place for cast iron repair for parts which are very expensive or very old or where replacement parts are just not available in a timely manner. In an industrial operation a repair often only needs to work until the replacement part can be obtained and repair cost is a relatively minor factor compared to downtime.

It takes time to properly disassemble and degrease and prepare and clean and preheat and weld slowly and post heat and cooldown and cleanup and reassemble and do the paperwork, all of which is done on billable hours. My advice is to always estimate/quote high and never give a guarantee on cast repair.

Cast iron repair is more of an art than a science and its success depends to a great degree on the quality of the iron and on luck and the skill and experience of the tradesman.

There are many different types and qualities of cast iron and while some poor quality cast is very difficult to repair some good quality cast is really cast steel and can be repaired quite easily. Just because you have a procedure or technique that worked before does not mean it will always work.

Good luck, YMMV

Reply to
Private
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I wouldn't suggest something that I haven't done myself already. I've welded thin sections of cast iron before with 99% NiRod, at about 60-70 amps. Sometimes the 55% works good too, and its cheaper. Follow what ecnerwal posted. If the cast iron is weldable NiRod & a ordinary stick welder will do it.

Keep in mind not all cast iron is suitable for welding. Some gray iron welds like crap. Some cast iron may have been made from a wide range of scrap & slag, and may also have undergone heat-treatment such as chilling in the mold. Cast iron that is impregnated with carbon, such as an exhaust manfold, or oil soaked cast iron, can also be a challenge. Cast iron with a high nickel content welds nicely, and cast iron that is closer to a semi-steel will be easy. The wide range of cast iron mystery metals is what I believe causes the diverse opinions regarding the repairs.

Also, proper cast iron repair may require the use of screws or pins prior to welding to add strength to the joint and maintain positioning of the pieces.

The ability to repair cast iron is a important skill to have in any machinist's repertoire.

Tony

Reply to
Tony

I have already told you how to do this job properly..............why bother to ask questions on here if you ignore the answers?

k

Reply to
Wanderer

Use of Ni rods is a very much hit and miss process, and whether or not it works is very dependant on the make up of the cast you are trying to weld.

Ni rods do have a use in repair of cast iron, but in this case they are not really suitable. If you have TIG and proper TIG brazing rods, then this process is likely to be a lot more suitable.

k

Reply to
Wanderer

I welded it with phos-bronze, after v'ing both the broken out pieces and the main casting. I then sand blasted all the pieces, fixtured them up and using a 1/16th electrode and about 35 amps..heated them up till red, then applied phos-bronze. The braze proceeded nicely, though I experienced some edge melting as I expected, when some of the sections were 1/8" x 1/8" in cross section. I was able build them up nicely.

I then let it cool normally, then put it in one of my lathes, dialed it in, and recut the ID in both X and Z. Thats some tough shit that Phos-bronze. Busted a decent insert right off the start on the interupted cut I took it slow and easy, using a good .75 triangular insert in a big assed solid holder. I then repainted it to match the rest of the motor.

Thanks for everyones advise. TIG brazing works pretty damned well, first time Ive tried it.

As for why did I continue to ask questions...I dont know you from shit. I do know others here, so I got a multitude of opinons, some being good, others being unworkable. Now that I know you actually know something..Ill put you on the "Knows Stuff" list and pay more attention to your advice in the future.

I thank you for your assistance.

Gunner

"I think this is because of your belief in biological Marxism. As a genetic communist you feel that noticing behavioural patterns relating to race would cause a conflict with your belief in biological Marxism." Big Pete, famous Usenet Racist

Reply to
Gunner

Gunner wrote: Ill put you on the "Knows Stuff" list and pay more attention

I wouldn't bother. The poster is a sock of Chris Stevens, usenet nuisance troill and general know-nothing unless he can cut and paste it from google and even then usually get the wrong end of the stick.

Reply to
straggle

Advice can be good, competent help can be be far better unless you merely need a nudge.

You're outta time to learn technique here.

I could do this job in several ways if you bought it to me. My preerred approach would not be any of those mentioned: it would be O/A welding with railroad rod and Ferro-Flux. That's the technique I use for repair of antique cast iron objects. I never promise success, so far I've never failed ... yet. I'd gladly do that in trade for some training from you in an area of your experise of inerest to me. Distance gets in the way, oh dear. tough shit, nevermind.

I ain't the only show in town, So CA is littered with competence far beyond my primitive capabilities. Find a guy, work a barter.

Reply to
Don Foreman

Final pics, not assembled. Ill do that in the morning and take a picture and post the entire assembly attached to the gear drive.

I used tig brazing with phos-bronze. First time Ive done this, but it seems to work fine. I tagged the ears with a hammer fairly stoutly and they held. Shrug..works for me. Paint to cover and voila..ugly but repaired.

Gunner

Reply to
Gunner

I have used that method of repair on many occasions, and it really is the best way of doing this type of repair, and if you take things slowly there is no need to mess around with pre-heat and trying a weld repair with Ni rods.

It is also quite possible to build up very thin missing parts with phosper bronze TIG brazing, and to salvage old or badly corroded cast iron parts.

k
Reply to
Wanderer

If thats the case then its very very strange that the method of repair recommended, seemed to work very well for the OP!

Glad he didnt try using an Xmas cracker MIG set to bodge the job though.................lol

k
Reply to
Wanderer

QUICK, go buy a Lotto ticket!

Reply to
Tom Gardner

That would have been good advice, if he had followed your half arsed suggestion for making this repair!

k
Reply to
Wanderer

Looks like Chris Stevens' kill file has broken. Anyone wanting welding advice would do beter to consult someone whose own scrapyard welding business had :not: failed.

Reply to
straggle

Don sez:

"...My preerred approach would not be any of those mentioned: it would be

Con,

Please elaborate a bit on "railroad rod".

Thanks,

Bob Swinney

Reply to
Robert Swinney

Perhaps a child abuser such as yourself is not the right person to comment on something he knows nothing whatsoever about?

k
Reply to
Wanderer

  1. Retract that accusation and issue an apology forthwith.
  2. Knowing nothing doesn't stop you commenting, does it? (See 1 above).
Reply to
straggle

BITE ME!!!!

Reply to
Tom Gardner

Good post, I particularly liked the above sentence, and 'mystery metals' pretty much says it all.

Reply to
Private

I agree!

Sometimes I feel like if only I had sacrificed a chicken at some welder's altar I might have had better luck :')))

Cast iron repair is more of an art than a science and its success depends to a great degree on the quality of the iron and on luck and the skill and experience of the tradesman.

There are many different types and qualities of cast iron and while some poor quality cast is very difficult to repair some good quality cast is really cast steel and can be repaired quite easily. Just because you have a procedure or technique that worked before does not mean it will always work.

Good luck, YMMV

Reply to
R. Zimmerman

Nope. Takes at least a few pounds of prime venison, the whole deer for a big job -- or a six-pack of some really good porter. Some good single malt/single barrel works too. :)

Got a chance to taste a moose stew at a reenactor event I attend. DEElicious!

Reply to
John Husvar

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