ChangFa Gen Update (finally some metal working content)

Jun 27, 2005 8 Replies

Greetings All,



Yesterday I worked on mocking up the engine / generator sub-frame. Today I updated the web site with some additional images, as well as scanning and uploading the manuals for both the engine and generator.



I'm currently waiting for new shaft couplings to arrive (I ordered the wrong dimensions the first time, whoops) Once I get the couplings together, I can finish the sub-frame.



For the moment, I've got a couple of questions.



#1 Shaft alignment measurements.



Any thoughts on how to measure shaft alignment?



The best idea I can currently come up with is to attach two magnetic micrometers to the fly wheel, and measurer the shaft run out at two points (one near the end of the generator shaft, and one point on the shaft near the body of the generator) If I am imagining this correctly, and I measure it accurately, I think I can mathematical determine both the axial and angular miss-allighnment. However, common sense says it might be quicker to just take a measurement, adjust "something" re-measure, and decide if I made the alignment worse or better, then "rinse and repeat"....



#2 Vibration mounts



My current plan here is to attach some type of rubber motor mounts between the engine-generator sub-frame and a yet to be built support frame. The questions are: A) Any suggestions on simple, efficient, and easy to find at the local auto parts store motor mounts?



B) I'm thinking about attaching the mounts at + and - 45 degrees, so they point towards the center of the crank shaft axis. Am I over thinking this, or is this a good idea?



#3 Any ideas on what size radiator might be needed? I've got two small radiators out of V6 equipped front wheel drive mini-vans, but they are both cross flow, and seem a little large. I've also got a bunch of heater cores available, but then I have to come up with some kind of hose mounted radiator cap, for a 3/4" heater hose...


Take Care, James Lerch

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(My telescope construction, Testing, and Coating site)



Press on: nothing in the world can take the place of perseverance. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. Calvin Coolidge


The last one is easy- get a backflush kit at the parts store, they have a hose mounted fitting with a cap.

What do you have against cross-flow radiators? One thing they're really good about is if you're stuck using water with crumbs in it they don't plug up like the vertical flow will.

No problem using a too-large radiator- just cover part of it 'till you find the point where it's not overcooling.

John

snipped-for-privacy@no.spam.tampabay.rr.com (James Lerch) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news-server.tampabay.rr.com:

I would suggest a flexible coupling, made to absorb minor shaft mis- alignment, such as a love-joy coupling.

McMaster-Carr -- Isolation mounts

Not a bad idea

Any 4-cylinder automotive radiator should be fine. I do not think the heater core will provide enough capacity.

How would this provide a pressure relief system?

Nothing really, other than they will not thermal syphon like a vertical core would (just in case the water pump belt falls apart)

Take Care, James Lerch

formatting link
(My telescope construction, Testing, and Coating site)

Press on: nothing in the world can take the place of perseverance. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. Calvin Coolidge

I've got a LoveJoy L150 on it's way already, however the spec sheet says that the max parallel misalignment is 0.015", and 1 degree on the angular misalignment.

That's some pretty tight specs to achieve with two 500lb pieces of cast iron.

Take Care, James Lerch

formatting link
(My telescope construction, Testing, and Coating site)

Press on: nothing in the world can take the place of perseverance. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. Calvin Coolidge

A straightedge laid on the OD of the coupling in two orientations 90 degrees apart will get you that close. A .015 gap will be very obvious. One degree is .017in/in and that coupling is 4.50 inches long with a straight cylindrical OD.

I think you'll find it's easier than you think. I've aligned larger diesels in sailboats with rigid couplings to much tighter specs while sitting on the engine in the bilge.

Ned Simmons

I guess this is one of those procedures where it is better to just "DO IT" than think about doing it :)

Take Care, James Lerch

formatting link
(My telescope construction, Testing, and Coating site)

Press on: nothing in the world can take the place of perseverance. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. Calvin Coolidge

Could probably leave the cap a little loose. I dunno, I wouldn't use the heater cores anyway but this shouldn't be a particularly pressurized system, rather like the old ones where the overflow had no restriction.

That might be a point.. the crossflow should provide convection cooling too, but they tend to be short and wide (compared to a vertical flow) so the convection would be less.

I'd hate to think of relying on convection cooling as a backup, you'd need a huge radiator and if you were just planning on it for emergency failure of the pump it'd be too big. I'd rather put a sensor on the block and shut it down in event of cooling system failure.

Dude, you have the Way Coolest telescope I've ever seen. I was going through your site recently and I'm impressed (for what that's worth).

John

Turn the crossflow 90 degrees and you have a vertical flow. The radiator doesn't know any difference. As far as putting a fill cap in a hose any good radiator shop can put a fill neck on a pipe for you. If your using a pumped system then put a thermostat in the system. You can have to big of a radiator and the thermostat will regulate the system for you. Without the thermostat you can go to cold or to hot. Coolant flowing to fast through the system will not pick up heat in the engine or have time to dump it in the radiator and it will overheat. lg no neat sig line

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