Lloyd E. Sponenburgh <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:
I checked the docs on the their compound slide and yeah, it doesn't have
enough travel to cut a taper 2-1/2" long. boo. The head can be offset, but
the tailstock can't move with it, so turning with one center isn't
possible at weird angles. The old timers on youtube always do a final
tuning and fit with a sharpie to make sure the fit is good.
On Wednesday, March 4, 2015 at 6:08:07 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote:
I would buy an arbor for the Clausing DP. That said, an unhardened arbor w
ill work just fine. And you can make one. I made an arbor for a Jacobs sm
all ball bearing chuck for use in my lathe. It is a bit longer than what y
ou can buy. You can make the taper by cutting two diameters separated by t
he right amount. Then just remove most of what needs to be removed with th
e lathe. And then use a file while the piece is turning. Use some blue an
d check it with the chuck to see where it is touching and then use the file
some more. It isn't a fast way to do it, but it can be done. Do it betwe
On Wed, 4 Mar 2015 22:13:13 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
How does your Sherline do with the tailstock set over that far? I'd
think you were pushing it, unless you have a very good taper
Here's a soft, blank Morse taper arbor:
I think I've finished up with the chuck. It was packed with horrible green
grease, everywhere which I removed. The part the jaws slide up and down on
had some damage so I filed and stoned that down and they stopped binding
and I was then able to test runout by tossing a piece of ground rod in my
lathe and then having the chuck clamp down on that. I tested runout with
an indicator running on the inside tape of the chuck body.
It was pretty bad. Ordered new jaws and the part that they slide around on
and it appears the jaws are what mostly fixed that. There appears to still
be several thousandths of runout, but the lathe chuck is a bit off too, so
whatever for now.
New bearings should arrive tomorrow.
tests of the spindle itself, sitting on V-blocks show it isn't
bent between where the bearings are. The runout there is barely 1
thousandth and once the bearings are preloaded, it going to be about zero
is my guess.
The fat part of the spindle with the taper is different with around 5
thousandths rounout at one point as measure from the far end of OD, not
the taper. This number was much higher with the old arbor installed
indicating that a slightly bent arbor can really flex the spindle. I'll
check real runout once I get a new arbor.
There are traces somebody has been here before I was, as the locking
collar that puts a preload on the bearings was installed backwards and it
looks like somebody took a torch to some parts of the spindle. Maybe to
heat straighten it in the past?
The plan is to locate a couple outlets and combine them into a three phase
run back to the breaker box. There appears to be dedicated outlets in my
space that once ran computers so I hope this can be pullled off without
running even more conduit in the ceilings. It's a bit busy up there to
start with. A safety disconnect from ebay arrived, complete with
somebody's lockout. Need to get some ~5 amp (a check on fusing an old
3/4HP, 3Ph 208 volt motors shows values around there) slow blow cartridge
fuses and a used (aka cheap) 3 phase breaker that part will be set.
Y'know... tapers being tapers, a few light whacks from the SIDE might
just loosen that up enough to come out. If I were doing it, I wouldn't
bang on it hard for fear of damaging the socket in the chuck, but I would
give it a number of smart taps from all directions (and quite close to
the chuck body) -- THEN try to extract it.
Ummm... You HAVE made sure there's not a retaining screw INSIDE the chuck
holding that sucker in... yes? It's not common in taper-mounted chucks,
but I've seen it.
with what ya got .
Cydrome , is this the drill press that had a bunch of runout ? Maybe caused
by using the wrong taper on the spindle end of the mandrel , from a mention
above about Clausing tapers ...
I don't have time to post the photos yet, but here's what happened.
The oversized 3/8" hole I put though the Jacobs 33 side or the arbor that
was sawed off the Morse side finally popped off with two 2 wrenches, a
7/16-14 grade 8 bolt and nut. I held the bolt and chuck body stationary a
wrench and a clamp and then torqued the nut clockwise over a stack of
washers. Had to really lay into it but it made a popping sound then still
had to be turned more to get it out. I used a nut and bolt to keep most of
the torque between the two wrenches. The only torque on the chuck was from
friction between the nut and washer stack. That all got a touch of lithium
The Jacobs side of the otherwise unhardened arbor was apparently ground
and hardened, to a surpringly nice finish. The inside of the chuck body
also had a perfect finished although it was blue/black in color like it
was somehow tempered like a file handle. There was no signs it ever spun
out, or anything else was heated. There is no damage of any type inside
that taper that I can see.
The amount the arbor stub sticks out when hand pressed back into the chuck
is 3/32" further out than when it was fully jammed into place. I have no
idea how it was pushed in there so far, but it was. Hell, maybe that's why
the entire thing ended up sort of bent in the first place.
I removed the quill and it seems one bearing has a tight spot, so I took
all of that apart. It took a bit of light hammering and heat (to melt the
old grease) to get the spindle and bearings apart. Will order new
bearings, they're Fafnir 202KDD5, which is apparently really common in old
drill presses and have a 5/8" bore and metric OD. Yeah- they're really
metric OD with an inch bore. I can't figure out what the 5 at the end of
part number is, but there are exact Fafnir replacements out there for
about $15 each.
The spindle does have some weirdness, but I'll continue that tomorrow.
thank for all the tips.
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