Compressor electrical and autodrain question

You mean like this suggestion:

%mod%

I think I was reacting more to zxcvbob's suggestion to use the breakers in your subpanel as the switches:

"... use the other 20A 2-pole breaker for your compressor. ... Use the breaker for a switch -- just switch it off when the compressor motor is not running. "

I agree that your 40A breakers could be used as switches as long as the breakers in the subpanel are protecting the outlets and are not used as switches. Once you use them as switches for a 16A compressor, the 40A "breakers-turned-switches" should not be recycled for use as breakers in a different application because they may be compromised. At some point they might fail to make or fail to break when you flip them off or on, but that should not pose a safety hazard because other means of shutoff exist.

What sort of box will house the 40A breakers?

%mod%

The version of the table lamp switch I'm talking about here is in the cord, "inline" as it were. It has a little thumbwheel that turns the lamp on or off. There are larger versions with snap-action rockers that I've seen in some fractional horsepower motorized equipment like vacuum pumps, grinders etc.

I see Leviton and Cooper are calling them "feed through cord switches":

Anyway, I also turned up a nice selection of motor switches from Leviton to compare to the Cutler-Hammer ones I mentioned earlier:

%mod%

likely be a

Again I advocate not to use the breaker in the subpanel as a switch. OK, got that off my chest.

Now, I thought of mentioning this next thing earlier, but stopped myself... anyway...

Is there any way to rig the pressure switch to "not come on" regardless of tank pressure, such that a sort of on/off switch is simulated? I mean aside from dialing the cut-out pressure all the way down to zero, which may not even be a possibility with some swithes?

%mod%

I just blew a mouthfull of beer through my nose. You owe me a new keyboard.

On 26 Feb 2005 19:34:12 -0800, the inscrutable snipped-for-privacy@worldnet.att.net spake:

Harbor Fright.

-- "Menja bé, caga fort!"

Ross, I believe you are assuming here. I have never seen him indicate ownership of any machine tools. Perhaps he does, but I don't believe so. But I will agree, if he does have machine tools with any air controls on them a dryer would be in order. If a person is just using hand held air tools, a dryer is a bit over kill. Many of the air tools I own have seen fairly constant use for 25 years with no problems. Just a few drops of oil once in a while will keep them running fine. Greg

Here are a couple of options, depending on your horsepower and voltage that you are switching. The first one is rated to 2 HP and up to 277 volt.

That's interesting. I wish I bought a nice big dryer I could buy for just $140, but it is gone now. Any examples (with URLs etc) of dryers that would be appropriate (say 15 CFM to be conservative).

Thanks, I think that the 11 cfm rating is about right.

Thanks. Similar unit in the curtis catalog show about 11 cfm.

Thanks modervador. I have completed installing the compressor, pictures to follow.

If you get interested in using a contacotr and a couple Allen Bradley push button switches I would send you some good, used, parts. I'm in the Los Angeles area and have way too many good junk that I'd like to see go to good use.

Jerry

I don't know about you but I prefer to not have water pouring out of air guns, air tools or anything else pneumatic. But, too each their own.....Ross

A lot depends on the use of the compressor, location (i.e., Arizona or the Amazon) You are correct about condensation, but if just a tiny bit of air is used intermittently, you may never see the water at the tools as it will condense in the receiver. If you are using a steady flow, different situation. At home I don't have a dryer on my small compressor and never will, At work, we have a rather large refrigerant dryer to handle the 700 cfm we use and we get gallons of water from the lines.

There you go assuming again! I have zero problems with water pouring out of my air tools, in fact I have painted a couple of cars with the setup I have with no water problems. I never see any evidence of water with my tools. Perhaps you live in a very humid area which causes problems for you. Strange enough it often gets 90% humidity here in the summer, still no problems.. As long as some thought goes into your piping system much of the water in the air will drop out before it causes any problems. Drain the tank often. Slope any air lines so moisture drains out, drain you traps, and most cases moisture in the air will not be a problem. I stand by my comment that for general shop use, hand held air tools, an air dryer is over kill. Greg

I have never seen a mechanics shop in this area with an air dryer unless they have some specialized equipment that needs extremely dry air. I worked at a CNC machine shop for a few years that did have air dryers, but then with the air controls on some of the machines it was necessary. I suspect that Ignoramus will not need a dryer either, unless he has some equipment he is keeping a secret! Greg

Agreed.....but even in a dry climate like California for example the rain will come and muck everything up for a few days but like you said usage pattern. We had those large systems too at my last place of employment (retired/retarded). One of my duties was to spec the sytems out for manufacturing. Your suggestion of the oil separator in another thread was also a good one. I used to get a kick out of that though. I would walk past the compressor pad and see the separator overflowing onto the pavement.......by the way, I checked out your woodworking/website...very nice.....Ross

Don't you hate when I do that!

Florida! Even when I lived in California, during the rainy season the water would flow big time.

Those are all excellent suggestions.

Well, we will have to agree to disagree....best wishes to ya Greg......Ross