Cutting torch use question - technique help needed

I use a cutting torch only rarely. And getting to see someone else use a torch (and looking over their shoulder) is even rarer for me.

When I try to cut anything more than a thin plate (say over 1/4 inch thick) the slag flows behind the cutting tip and into the cut. I spend too much time trying to recut the slag. I have tried different angles of holding the cutting tip relative to the part to be cut with no noticeable improvement. Knowing that skilled people can cut thru plates that are numerous inches thick with the right equipment - I figure that I should be able to do better also.

If you are inclinded to ask what brand/model/tip size of a torch - I don't know much more than my primary torch is a Victor and pretty good sized and my second torch (came with a collection of welding stuff I bought at auction) is a Meco (also midsized). I am at work and my workshop is 10 miles from home and I will not be there until Wednesday evening when I want to cut a plate. FWIW, recently I used the Meco for the first time and I had the same issue of the slag flowing behind the tip and into the kerf.

Reply to
aribert
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Increase your O2 pressure, and be sure the tip is very clean and well- reamed to provide a solid jet of oxygen. The molten metal should be blown clear of the kerf.

You may also be using too small a tip for the thickness of work. As the work size increases, the kerf must be wider.

Third, I find that tilting the torch slightly backwards so the jet cuts further ahead deeper in the work will help clear the kerf. Running dead- vertical or dragging will tend to blow the melt back into the cut.

Cutting anything thicker than a couple of inches is always tougher than thin work.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Hmm, my experience is just opposite. I usually have a "1" tip in the torch and have trouble with remelt filling in if I don't change to a "0" on thin stuff. I often angle in extra on a quick part rather than make the tip change

Karl

Reply to
Karl Townsend

About 5lbs of actyelne..and 20-27lbs of oxy...warm up the metal till its bright red, hit the oxy cut lever and MOVE. Moving too slow will allow the metal to melt and reform behind the cut. Moving too fast and you will suddenly run into cool metal and it will stop cutting.

You should have a #1 tip in your torch. #0 below 1/4", #2 above 5/8"

I had this problem years ago when I first started. Then one day...it went away. Practice makes perfect. I started cutting scrap up and adjusting angle etc etc..and suddenly it started "working"

Now that I have a plasma cutter..I still fire up the burner and practice to keep the ability.

Gunner

I am the Sword of my Family and the Shield of my Nation. If sent, I will crush everything you have built, burn everything you love, and kill every one of you. (Hebrew quote)

Reply to
Gunner Asch

Thanks for the suggestions and insight. I had my O2 at about 20 lbs so I'll up that a bit. I know that I bought a selection of torch tips (20+ years ago when I bought the torch set) and I will check what tip I have been using. I don't think that I am going too slow - I have a habit of overrunning into cold metal and having to stop to reheat. I typically have about a 60 to 75 degree angle of torch tip to work so that the flame is cutting into the work - but that by itself did not do the trick.

I agree that practice is something that I am lacking. I use the smoke wrench much more for heating - either heat & beat or to free a rusted or pressed on part. I don't have a rosebud tip and years ago I even used the cutting torch (set to a "cool" acetylene rich flame) to heat the sheetmetal bonnet on my Triumph so that I could hammer form a power buldge to clear the tripple Webers that I added (that ended up being a 2 inch deep deformation and the metal is **real** thin (real tinny when I tap my finernail on it) at the deepest draw).

Reply to
aribert

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