DC Motor-Update

Following the kind directions given by Jim Rozen and others, I twiddled with that DC drive and motor this evening. The motor checked out, about 50 ohms on the armature, and a rather odd reading on the field, but not shorted and no shorts to ground were found.

However..the drive unit is toast. The variac is shorted and inspection with a flashlight showed multiple blown and burned sections on the winding, so I didnt even bother going any farther. Shrug..replacing that bastard will cost more than a new drive.

While sitting thinking about the problem..I sorta kinda recalled there being a DC drive unit or two in that Pile of Stuff thats filling my back yard (still..sigh).. With a flashlight and rain coat, I burrowed under the tarps, into a number of piles and ultimately found a Cleveland Motor Controls Pacemaster1. No case, and no idea if its any good. I downloaded the manual from CMC, read the specs..and it seems that it will work with the motor. Ill bread board the bugger up and if it works ok, Ill have to make a remote control unit, mounted to the outside of the grinder, and mount this unit inside the base.

I think I have all the bits to breadboard it up, with the possible exception of a 1k pot..but Im sure I can part something out and snag one..

Ill let you know how it goes, and thanks Everybody for the help.

Gunner

'If you own a gun and have a swimming pool in the yard, the swimming pool is almost 100 times more likely to kill a child than the gun is.'" Steven Levitt, UOC prof.

Reply to
Gunner
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I haven't been in to work yet so would not have seen any e-mails sent there - but variacs are pretty indestructible and available inexpensively on ebay, etc.

You might try salvaging it, still.

Jim

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Reply to
jim rozen

50 ohms sounds kinda high for armature resistance. I'm looking at an Amatek motor, 120 V rated, about 3" x 3" x 4". Total resistance (armature + field) is about 3.5 ohms. This is probably a high-speed vacuum motor. Other motors might have higher resistance fields, but armature resistances are usually no more than a couple of ohms.
Reply to
Don Foreman

If this motor's been sitting around much, the brushes or the commutator may have some oxide and junk on their surfaces. It might come down a bit after the motor was run. The fact that there's no shunt to ground is a good sign.

Jim

================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ==================================================

Reply to
jim rozen

Reply to
David Billington

Well the Pacemaker drive works. I bread boarded it up. Couldnt find a 1k Pot in my stuff without spending an afternoon tearing stuff up, so stuck in a 500k pot. It works..though runs very slow with that pot in there. This coming week Ill swing by my favorite Secret Electronics Source and pick up the right pot for a dollar or two and over the New Years Holiday, Ill get it all put back together and running. Ill spend the rest of the afternoon mounting the drive inside the base of the grinder and figuring out the best way to run the wiring so the head has enough slack to travel right to left during normal operations and has a plug so its removable from the grinder

Id did notice it was running backwards so changed the armature wiring..no change. Had to swap the field windings. Is it kosher to put a reversing switch on that, and if so, does the motor have to come to a complete stop before reversing? The drive unit manual mentions a contactor for reverse, but I dont have one and the manual refers to another manual which I couldnt find.

Many thanks to you Jim and all of the rest of you.

Gunner

'If you own a gun and have a swimming pool in the yard, the swimming pool is almost 100 times more likely to kill a child than the gun is.'" Steven Levitt, UOC prof.

Reply to
Gunner

My battery charger has a repaired variac in it as well, I had a brain fart and hooked the line up to one end of the windings, and the wiper. That worked fine until I turned the dial down. :(

Fortunately the break was only in one spot, so I bridged it with soldered-in bit of wire, it's been running fine for years that way.

Jim

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Reply to
jim rozen

Ahem. Not if they are the type with completely exposed windings and you drop them on the concrete floor of your basement workshop... a pre-teen experimenter's painful memory from the days when the CK722 was the new kid on the workbench and the 12AX7 was king...

mickey

Reply to
Mickey Feldman

See also my post about hooking one end of the incoming line to the wiper....

Jim

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Reply to
jim rozen

MIght try Ametek, they're in Racine Wis. Should show something on a web search.

Reply to
Lennie the Lurker

Which style of CK-722 did you have? The first ones which I had were blocks of black epoxy with a glass lead spacer at the bottom. Later ones were irridescent(sp?) blue aluminum cans over a similar spacer, and if you broke off a lead at the base, all was not lost. You could peel back the aluminum, and find the actual transistor was a tiny thing (about the size of a match head), potted in silicone rubber. (Not that I knew what silicone rubber was until later. :-) The tiny transistor had the leads coming out in a triangular pattern, with a red line by one lead -- the collector, I think.

Wonderful memories, those.

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

When I was in high school we got ahold of a salvaged telephone exchange setup with tons of old OCxxx germanium transistors. They were slow as molasses and would burn out if you looked at them sideways (I think 50mA maximum Ic). They were packaged in glass cylinders with an aluminum tube outside and filled with a silicone grease goop. Like squashing a bug when you opened on up. Fun to play with- I think you only get about 100-200kHz toggle frequency out of a flip-flop made with them.

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

Reply to
Spehro Pefhany

Reply to
Ron Moore

I seem to remember seeing some that were tiny obround vacuum cans, with a tiny crimped-off tip at the top, with the can welded to a glass-sealed base, with the three wires coming out the bottom, all in a row.

Jim

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Reply to
jim rozen

Fortunately the top of the windings were not hooked up to anything at the time! I checked for insulation breakdown but it was OK. The low side smoked with still about a half inch of windings left.

Jim

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Reply to
jim rozen

I hadn't even thought about these things for years until that variac memory got stirred, but I see that they've been honored with their own commemorative web site.

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If the date info on this site is correct, it must have been the aluminum ones since it wasn't until the early 60's that I started tinkering with electronics, although I do seem to remember a black case. I know I never saw the blue version. May have been sitting in a warehouse for years before they got to me, of course. Radio shack, Allied, and Lafayette were the only parts sources I remember, other than this old guy who had a warehouse full of government surplus stuff (one in every city?) that my buddies and I loved to browse through. Strictly tubes there, of course.

I remember using one for an audio oscillator tuned to an approximate 'bronx cheer' that I built inside a book with the inside of the pages cut out and brought to study hall in grade 7.... And sitting in the basement listening for hours to the fantastic fidelity of a turntable through my two transistor amplifier and headphones. Great stuff...!

mickey

Reply to
Mickey Feldman

I think that those were another series -- from GE, I think, instead of Raytheon. Those leads were not equally spaced -- the base was closer to the emitter than to the collector. Some were oval, others were fully round. At least one was designated a 2N35, IIRC.

I think that the equal spacing of the pins in the CK-722 was so it could make use of the same sockets used for pencil tubes (used in some tiny military gear, and in hearing aids -- a cylinder about 7/16" wide, and maybe 1/4" thick -- nearly oval format, with the bottom end pinched off flat with the leads coming out in a row, and the vacuum seal at the other end. Those tubes also had designations starting with CK -- four digit ones, IIRC.

Some of the tubes were painted with conductive silver paint (for shielding), with an extra wire brought out of the base (connected internally to another wire from the base), and wrapped around the flat pinch-off before the silver conductive paint was applied.

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols
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Great!

I started with the black version (two of them), and later handled some of the blue ones. I don't remember ever having one of the silver ones -- but by then, I was going after the ones with 2N designations instead. A bit more variety, with both PNP and NPN available.

Mine first two were mail order -- at $7.50 each -- a lot for a kid in those days. It must have been around 1954 or 1955 that I got mine, since I moved from South Texas to Virginia (near Washington DC) in

1956.

Even in towns -- Cotulla Texas never was big enough to really qualify as a city -- but I remember two of them there. Only some of the stuff was electronic (or even electrical) in nature. In Alexandria, VA, I later found another one -- and somewhat later in the nearby town of Anandale Va a second one.

:-)

Wasn't it? What I built was a two-stage amplifier which fed headphones from a crystal microphone. It was amazing what I could hear with those.

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

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