Delta DP350 Power Switch - Small Saga

Good for you! And when the new switch wears out, you will not be able to find where you put the second switch. Or, the next owner will discover the bag and switch when he goes to replace the old switch. You just can't win!

Paul

Well, there ya go.

Well, the chosen cavity is behind the operational switch, so there is hope. And I do the put-the-spares-in-the-machine maneuver often enough that I'll probably think of it. It's more likely to work than to remember which box I put it in, five or ten years later.

I hope that this switch lasts longer than 5 years of light duty that killed the old switch. The new switch is mechanically simpler (a rocker) than the old switch (push green for on, push red for off).

Future owners are on their own.

Joe Gwinn

Outstanding. Not to hijack the thread, but has anyone tried using a foot pedal as a switch for a drill press.

i

Duh.

Two of my drill presses have foot controls. They're Dumont drills with Jacobs #0 taper chucks. Since they have universal AC/DC motors, a simple trigger switch from a variable speed drill will easily carry the currents of the motors.

A similar setup could be constructed for most drill presses, with a foot switch to act as just a Start/Stop switch for a relay/contactor to run the motor. Typical, inexpensive foot switches aren't rated for high currents that a full-sized shop drill press motor would require, but they can easily handle the contactor coil's voltage and current.

Heavy duty indsustrial-rated machine control foot switches are generally expensive, and nearly always have a guard covering the switch pedal to prevent accidental activation of a machine.

The guard is a sensible feature for any foot switch, and especially if children or pets frequent the machine area. A safety lockout switch located on the machine could prevent unanticipated surprises or injuries.

If the drill press had a DC motor, it wouldn't be too difficult to put together a variable speed foot control for some particular purpose.. polishing, maybe.

An AC variable speed control could probably be constructed without too much difficulty using a VFD for a 3-phase motor and a foot switch.

I spent a half hour looking for a replacement switch for a Bunn coffee maker. Co-worker was trying to find a switch with a light that would fit. The replacement I found is a Honeywell product which made me think of Don. I guess Bunn really wants a lot for that switch, Digikey seems a bit less proud of it.

Wes

Wils Bill, thanks. I have an Allen Bradley foot switch that has a guard, weighs 6-8 lbs and is rated for 15 amp. I will add a 115v plug and receptacle to it so that I could use it with any piece of machinery.

i

I only do small stuff so my machines are quite small.

3 of them,, the bench grinder the small pedastal drill, and the scroll saw are all on the one plug board with the foot switch on the input. Turn on which ever machine you want, kick the switch a bit closer and away you go.

John G.

Mine was hard wired to the motor switch about 10 years ago. I is a commercial grade from some load of surplaus i picked up, long ago. There were two mounted on a single base plate so i cut the plate in half and trimmed it to fit each footswitch

These are already wired to just plug in:

Momentary Power Foot Switch $9.99

Manual:

Power Maintained Foot Switch $12.99

Manual:

On Sat, 24 Oct 2009 14:43:21 -0500, the infamous Ignoramus18829 scrawled the following:

Excellent question, Ig. I'd love floor-actuated switching for a few tools. Do you prefer momentary or hard-switched? I think I'd like the option for both.

Hey Iggy,

I use foot switches on all three of mine. Each is actually an "air ball pedal" with rubber tubing leading to the actual switches near the motors. Works on the same principle as the old service station bell. This is a safety feature that does away with the "something-heavy/sharp-cut-the-cord-on-the-floor" electrical hazard, and light enough to be able to easily nudge it out of the way when not needed. They are quite light, and I had thought initially that lightness would be annoying and maybe I should mount each on a board or something, but so far that has not been required. Pretty sure mine came from a place called Busy Bee Tools here in Canada, at about $15 bucks each as I recall.

Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario.

and ps to Joe Gwinn.... if you had a unit style Start/Stop originally, you should have a big enough "hole" to mount a decent sized double pole toggle switch, even from Radio Shack, and suing both poles you would double the electrical life of the switch.

'XXXXXXXXXXX

[snip]

I thought of that, but the problem in the switch was mechanical, not electrical, so I opted for a mechanically simpler switch that is made in the US. With any luck, this will outlive me.

The failed switch will be autopsied, time permitting.

Joe Gwinn

No, you won't 'double' the life. The switches will open or close at slightly different times, and won't share the load equally so it will extend the life some it will not double.

Harbor Freight has both types.

I prefer momentary, personally. The pedal that would hold, seems more dangerous than useful.

i

On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 20:18:26 -0500, the infamous Ignoramus7950 scrawled the following:

Since 99.9% of switches up top are not momentary, I don't see how you could consider a foot switch more dangerous. It's the norm for all power tools except handheld VSR drill motors.

If something happens, you would need to look for a switch and find it with your foot etc. I do not really see the point of non-momemntary foot switches.

i

And hands are much more instinct driven than feet when it comes to something other than balance. Gerry :-)} London, Canada