double headed coin

I was wondering if anyone would know where I could have a double headed coin made. I have both coins and would like to know if theres such a place or person that I could hire to have that done. thanks.

Reply to
doomtrain
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get two coins, mill them down to half thickness; solder the two halves together. Any machinist could do this. Whether they would want to is another matter.

Reply to
Roger_Nickel

I have done this several times with nickels. The instructions for it I found once in this news group. Quite easy to do.

Abrasha

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Reply to
Abrasha

Indeed. ...and *don't* mill both faces flat. The join is then way too easy to spot. Instead, turn a recess in one face, leaving the rim intact. Then turn the other coin to fit the recess. A good press fit won't require solder, and if turned coincident with the rim will be virtually undetectable.

A fun exercise - but if you just want a double-header, they're available for a few bucks on the 'net. Google is your friend.

-- Jeff R.

Reply to
Jeff R

So, how do you hold it to turn down the rim?

:)

Reply to
Mike Young

One way would be with a pot collet and a pressure pad in the tailstock.

The recess in the collet should be less than half the thickness of the coin - you'll need a setup like that anyway to face off half the thickness.

So the drill would be: Put coin in pot collet, apply pressure via tailstock pad to face of coin. Turn half the rim down to the reduced diameter. Then swap to the second pot collet, which has a diamter sized for the turned-down portion. Install the coin the other way around and turn down the remaining half of the rim diameter.

Then in the same setup pull back the pressure pad and carefully face half the thickness away.

The advantage of the bore and press approach is you can do this on coins with "coining" (the knurling around the circumference) without having to match up the knurling when supergluing them together.

Jim

Reply to
jim rozen

Which would be better, super glue or solder?

Reply to
Roger Shoaf

What's the best way to hold the other coin, the one you bore out?

I'd think a soft collet recessed to suit ought to be safer than a chuck.

Jeff

Reply to
Jeff Wisnia

OK, that's easy, but:

How do I hold it while I'm turning the OD, please?

Reply to
Dave Hinz

Soft jaws. They don't crush or distort, nor do they move in a lateral direction when tightened, unlike a collet. They're also very fast and precise.

Harold

Reply to
Harold and Susan Vordos

No, this is absolutely the wrong way to do this.

The right way is to bore out one side of one coin, do the same with a second identical coin, remove the edge of that second coin and then press fit that into the bored out space of the first coin.

Soldering two halves anneals the coins, and results in a coin that makes a thud on a hard surface when dropped. IF you are even capable of soldering the two halves together accurately which is highly questionable.

Using "my" (I did not invent this) method, results in a double headed coin, that sounds just like a regular one when dropped onto a hard surface.

Abrasha

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Reply to
Abrasha

Neither, press fit is the better solution.

Reply to
Abrasha

...

See Jim Rozen's post, and also see text and pictures at:

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"Two headed nickel" r.c.m thread of August 2003,
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That google groups page also lists a couple of 2-headed- coin suppliers, like another poster mentioned. However, the coins the OP wants joined are silver dollars, rather than nickels or quarters. Although his email to me didn't say, I presume that by silver dollars he means some pre-1935 coins, not Eisenhower's, Anthony's or Sacagawea's .

-jiw

Reply to
James Waldby

Thanks, James (and Jim)!

Dave

Reply to
Dave Hinz

Correct these dollars are 1885 silver dollars.

Reply to
doomtrain

"Lateral"? I'd call it "axial" like the collet and work moves along the axis of the spindle, toward the headstock, when tightened.

Then again, they do move laterally when viewed from where you usually stand relative to a lathe, so I guess either description is correct. :-)

They're also very fast and

Agreed,

Jeff

Reply to
Jeff Wisnia

James Waldby wrote: > Dave Hinz wrote: >

Abrasha

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Reply to
Abrasha

Reply to
Jim Sehr

They're far better suited to the application than a collet. Collets are influenced by the diameter of the object, so they don't close in the same place each time---limiting your ability to control thickness to some degree. If you have a Hardinge-Sjogren collet chuck, it's even more pronounced. Soft jaws, properly bored with a step, eliminate that problem and hold the coin perfectly perpendicular.

Harold

Reply to
Harold and Susan Vordos

I used external gripping step collet from my lathe. I have a two sets of 5 internal and external step collets especially made for it. They worked perfectly for this.

See

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(bottom photo)

Abrasha

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Reply to
Abrasha

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