Drain plug removal

Might want to disconnect the EGO sensor, too. They get buzzed real easy. And ground the welder as close as you can to the plug. And clean off all the oil scum from the pan, or risk a big fire. The nylon gasket under the plug will probably burn.

Dan

Might try a little application of heat from a MAPP torch and using a good pair of vise grips first. Shouldn't be that tight or it would have stripped out.

I use a 15mm box-end wrench to remove the drain plug on my '00 Silverado... for whatever it's worth. It does seem to have a "taper"... not sure how they came up with that idea? If there's any way you can pound a 15mm socket onto the plug... that's what I would try first. I've welded on both of my '00 Silverados and my '88 step-side without disconnecting anything... no problems.

The MIG might be the best way, but one other thought if a socket won't work, take a shaft collar and bore it on the lathe to fit tightly over whats left of the head, then tighten the setscrew(s) on the collar on the head of the plug. You might even consider machining a slight counter bore on the end of the collar to grab the OD of the plug flange. Then grab the collar with a pipe wrench or have a nut welded to it. I've used the TIG/MIG method on several occasions with good success, but not on a drain plug. Be careful while you are welding, if the nylon washer melts before you stop the arc, you will have a fire from oil leaking out and then a much bigger problem...

I would strike the plug several times really hard on the face with a heavy hammer to help loosen it and use a tight fitting six-point impact socket with a strong and long pull handle. Grind the face of the socket if needed to remove the bevel. Dress the hex on the plug if needed for a good fit. Then press the socket tightly in place and pull. You will either remove the plug or the center hex will twist off. I don't think welding on a nut would be any stronger than the hex itself.

Don Young

On Fri, 29 Feb 2008 01:58:26 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Ivan Vegvary" quickly quoth:

Yeah, make sure there is no oil anywhere around the outside of the pan or plug where you're welding. Thin layers ignite pretty quickly. Keep a fire extingisher handy, too. If you have it, you won't need it.

What? You don't have 11" vise grips, pipe wrenches, etc? Condolences on the little problem.

Suggestion: install a magnetic drain plug in its place once it's out.

-- An idealist believes the short run doesn't count. A cynic believes the long run doesn't matter. A realist believes that what is done or left undone in the short run determines the long run. -- Sydney J. Harris

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 20:45:21 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, "David Courtney" quickly quoth:

It being a Chebby, that question is self-explanatory.

-- An idealist believes the short run doesn't count. A cynic believes the long run doesn't matter. A realist believes that what is done or left undone in the short run determines the long run. -- Sydney J. Harris

Several Co's including Sears sell a set of OD "easy outs" They are driven over the rounded nut or bolt and turned off. I have a set but have never had to use it. Good luck.

Chuck P.

mine is 13mm. 2007 Silverado Classic (really a 2006)

Do you have a good wrench? (maybe 13mm)

Can you try putting it firmly on the bolt's head, and tapping on it gently with a small hammer or some such, to get the bolt to start turning?

kind of a dangerous thing to do when it is in a possibly aluminum casing.

It being a Chebby... the stock plug is magnetic.. >;-}

The one on my Poncho isn't. It's long and looks like it should be magnetic, but if it is it's not strong enough to pick up iron filings

------

When overhead welding with a MIG, increase the wire speed a bit so the molten globule does not drip back down the wire. Try to keep about a 60 degree angle between wire and work, and not have a 90 degree angle. For the welding part, that's about all I can add. Clean everything as good as you can, and that includes paint, oil, dirt, etc. An electric wire brush even one on a drill motor is good, too.

Steve

An addition to what Don suggested would be to use a breaker bar with a small hydraulic jack under it to keep the socket from camming off as you apply torque to fastener.

Wes

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 23:56:55 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, clare at snyder.on.ca quickly quoth:

Que es este "Poncho", gringo? Early Chebbies had long shanks which weren't magnetic. (My first job, fresh out of tech school, was at a Chebby dealership. Starting with the "replace all motor mounts, adding holddown cables 'cuz they break" campaign, I learned real quickly what brand of auto -not- to buy. Dad was a Ford man and I saw why.)

-- An idealist believes the short run doesn't count. A cynic believes the long run doesn't matter. A realist believes that what is done or left undone in the short run determines the long run. -- Sydney J. Harris

Have you tried the application of a 14" pipe wrench to the offending item? Carefully sized and held firmly in place with a bottle jack, this method can remove even the most solidly stuck drainplug.

Just remember..righty tightly lefty loosey.

Gunner, been there, done that.

If it's not leaking you could leave it in place and use one of these

to change your oil in the future. they work well, a farmer friend of mine has a similar tool and has been using it for years (thousands of hours on machines and 100,000 of miles on autos) he says it saves mileage on his back.

the silver lining---reason for a new tool

YMMV

Andrew

Drain the oil first. Oh, that might be hard. Somebody had a bit on the net about working on a Delorean or something, and they dented the oil pan. So, they welded a nut on the pan to pull it out, but that caused an oil/gas vapor explosion inside the crankcase and blew off both rocker arm covers! So, heating the outside of the pan might not be such a good idea. No way could you weld it with gallons of water inside the pan, I don't know about oil, but I suspect it will be very hard to get it hot enough to weld without boiling a huge amount of oil on the inside.

Jon

How about putting a big tray underneath and removing the pan? Then you could drill out the plug.

Jim Wilkins

"Gunner" wrote: (clip) Just remember..righty tightly lefty loosey. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Is that for screw threads, or your political philosophy?