KitchenAid mixer repair

That would be the governor plate. Most of the kitchen aid mixers run them. When the motor is under load it will run smooth. Just the way they are designed. Does yours have the metal gears or the plastic ones? They are interchangeable but the metal lasts longer (although it is a bit noisier) especially if you run the dough hook a lot. That and the housing color is what separates the home models from the smaller commercial units.

I have noticed the same effect on my 25 year old Dremel. Gerry :-)} London, Canada

Bought my wife one and she wore it out in a year with the dough hook, stripped the cast zink gears in the planetary section. Got a new one since it was still under warranty (barely) and it's been fine since-- but she's gone back to kneeding by hand. Do the commercial units have a better planetary section as well? --Glenn Lyford

Well, and the price. All the Kitchenaid branded units are really consumer models, the only real commercial unit that size is the Hobart branded N-50 at $1,600.

She must have made a lot of dough. I've only seen a couple with the planetary stripped and those were for the same reason. The commercial units use an all steel planetary and gears. Look at the KM25GOX

You won't be able to break the Hobart N-50 version, but it will break the bank at $1,600 or so. It's the same physical size as the other 5qt bowl lift models, but it's 15# heavier and has an induction motor and a real 3 speed gear transmission. I was lucky enough to get a used N-50 at a much better price.

I got one of the $9.95 Chinese "Dremel" knock-offs that does the up-down thing, until it gets past a certain rpm.. Is that the same ? Annoying as all get-out.

Flash

If you can find one of the older Kitchen Aid models produced in the

70-82 era you're actually getting a Hobart. The KA design was based on the units that Hobart made for KA.

My Kitchen Aid mixer is a 1934 or 1936 vintage unit. It has three speeds like the pro ones do today. I can't even begin to count how many loaves of bread this mixer has produced, by myself and my mom. If the pro ones are built the way the old ones are then I imagine they will last. ERS

I don't know what motor you have but I had a brush commutator motor fail in this way: the rotor wiring was attached to commutator tabs by crimping, and the crimps were too hard, so many wires broke off. This didn't prevent the motor from turning, because 1) only some wires were broken and the inertia pushed the rotor past those dead positions, and 2) each tab was connected to two poles: one ahead of the tab and one behind. The lower the speed/current, the harder it was for the rotor to turn, however.

Since I liked the tool and there was no spare available, I picked the area clean of the potting compound and soldered the wires to the commutator tab. I am afraid it wasn't a cost-effective activity: if I paid myself $30/hr I could have bought a new tool, but it was kind-of fun.

older kitchenaid mixers (and sunbeam too) used a type of ball govenor that would interrupt motor power to regulate speed - if this gets sticky and isn't sufficiently responsive, it can cause the effect you describe

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